Masiony
1/2 ton status
clearance first, but it also got rid of the pitting.
CK5
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89 s10 buildup for rocks
- Thread starter Masiony
- Start date
cool, so how are you gonna cut the housing? bandsaw?
Masiony
1/2 ton status
yeah, i was thinking of trying my new portaband on it it, then cleaning it up with a grinder. if that doesnt work, then just a good ole cutting disk on my 9" grinder
How do you plan to weld the new bottom plate to the axle housing? TIG?
Masiony
1/2 ton status
arc, using ni99 rod.
Masiony
1/2 ton status
here are some pics of my setup:
Masiony
1/2 ton status
based off some measurements i have gotten from a few people, it looks like i am right about 7" of lift
.
Masiony
1/2 ton status
updates
i did a little cut and burn on my real estate. now where there was once wedge bushings and panhard bar mounts and leaf perches, there is clean!
let me tell you, there is definitely a right way and a wrong way to take the wedges off. i think i found all of the wrong ways before i found the easy way. it seems they are only welded at the very top and the very bottom, not around the tube at all. so all you really need to do is cut the welds off, and they fall right off. and of course my 14b had the cast perches, i guess that is what i get for saying they were a piece of cake to take off. anyways, they put up a little fight but i won in the end.
getting back on topic, the night was still young so i kept on working. i threw my spring up for those that were wondering. just imagine it a little more off the axle tube height wise.
anyways, i busted out the old sharpie and tape measure and started mapping out where everything was going. my spring plates are about as wide as they can be on the axle, they are touching the welds for the inner c. i did this so i can have room for my upper link tower on the drivers side next to the pumpkin.
i soon realized that i still didnt have much room on the short side, so i made a executive decision to run the link tower partially on the cast pumpkin. i did this so i would have good room to get good welds on all the components.
this meant that i had to fit one of the link tower sides to the housing. i used a piece of cardboard to make a template.
here is the final shape
here it is fitted to the housing
i went ahead and started tacking things on to get a better idea of how it will all work together.
you can see my caster and my pinion angle in the last pic, that is how it will be in the truck. caster is dialed in at 6* and the pinion points up nicely.
i did a little cut and burn on my real estate. now where there was once wedge bushings and panhard bar mounts and leaf perches, there is clean!
let me tell you, there is definitely a right way and a wrong way to take the wedges off. i think i found all of the wrong ways before i found the easy way. it seems they are only welded at the very top and the very bottom, not around the tube at all. so all you really need to do is cut the welds off, and they fall right off. and of course my 14b had the cast perches, i guess that is what i get for saying they were a piece of cake to take off. anyways, they put up a little fight but i won in the end.
getting back on topic, the night was still young so i kept on working. i threw my spring up for those that were wondering. just imagine it a little more off the axle tube height wise.
anyways, i busted out the old sharpie and tape measure and started mapping out where everything was going. my spring plates are about as wide as they can be on the axle, they are touching the welds for the inner c. i did this so i can have room for my upper link tower on the drivers side next to the pumpkin.
i soon realized that i still didnt have much room on the short side, so i made a executive decision to run the link tower partially on the cast pumpkin. i did this so i would have good room to get good welds on all the components.
this meant that i had to fit one of the link tower sides to the housing. i used a piece of cardboard to make a template.
here is the final shape
here it is fitted to the housing
i went ahead and started tacking things on to get a better idea of how it will all work together.
you can see my caster and my pinion angle in the last pic, that is how it will be in the truck. caster is dialed in at 6* and the pinion points up nicely.
blasphemous
1/2 ton status
Looks good, I'm interested in how this turns out!
Masiony
1/2 ton status
thanks
Randy92782
1 ton status
Man i swear everyone is making cool **** and mine is still pretty much how i bought exc. tires and paint. I'm gonna have to step my game up. Subscribed!!
Masiony
1/2 ton status
thanks
Masiony
1/2 ton status
well, i decided to tackle the gear boxes tonight. i needed to get my doubler in before i can figure out my rear pinion angle. anyways...
so i had a spare t5 ready to put in when i had the chance because my old one grinds a lot in 4th. well, i broke it (the spare one) trying to put it in after inspecting my clutch. i didnt have the angle quite right, and when i was trying to draw it in, i broke the pilot bearing portion off. on top of that i also broke an ear off of the bell housing.
the good news was my clutch as in good shape.
anyways, i ended up slapping the old trans back in with a spare bell housing i luckily had. then i went ahead and put the doubler in place. i still need to clock it up more, but this gives me a good idea of the condition of the rear drive shaft. it looks like it will be really short, about 26" from u-joint to u-joint.
and finally, my rear shaft angles
so i had a spare t5 ready to put in when i had the chance because my old one grinds a lot in 4th. well, i broke it (the spare one) trying to put it in after inspecting my clutch. i didnt have the angle quite right, and when i was trying to draw it in, i broke the pilot bearing portion off. on top of that i also broke an ear off of the bell housing.
the good news was my clutch as in good shape.
anyways, i ended up slapping the old trans back in with a spare bell housing i luckily had. then i went ahead and put the doubler in place. i still need to clock it up more, but this gives me a good idea of the condition of the rear drive shaft. it looks like it will be really short, about 26" from u-joint to u-joint.
and finally, my rear shaft angles
looking great. You probably already know this but grind everything off of the frame that you can to get a clean look. After having done several Toyota solid axle swaps some guys say, well I well just skip grinding that all the way down flush, it always bugs them later.
So if you think its gonna bug you it will. I can't wait to see this thing done its gonna be awesome.
So if you think its gonna bug you it will. I can't wait to see this thing done its gonna be awesome.
pvfjr
1/2 ton status
Why don't you throw a wrench at the china hutch while you're at it, Bull! 
Why am I not surprised that you tried to force it and broke everything? 
Oh well, at least nobody paid too much for those. It's ok, I broke my spare tranny once too, before it ever even made it under the truck. So are you gonna swap the input shaft from the old one to the new one so you can have one good tranny instead of two bad trannies? That's what I had to do, and I'd do it again.
Why am I not surprised that you tried to force it and broke everything? Oh well, at least nobody paid too much for those. It's ok, I broke my spare tranny once too, before it ever even made it under the truck. So are you gonna swap the input shaft from the old one to the new one so you can have one good tranny instead of two bad trannies? That's what I had to do, and I'd do it again.
pvfjr
1/2 ton status
Oh yeah, the doubler looks good. Pretty long though! I think that puts mine to shame. But mine weighs more....I'll pretend that's a good thing.
Masiony
1/2 ton status
on the input shaft, i just went ahead and put the noisy one back in. i took the bearing retainer off to see how bad it would be to take it out, but i would have to disassemble the entire trans and i didnt feel like dealing with it, you know me. as for the length, it is 53" from the tip of the bell to the end of the rear slip yoke. its also 34" from the tip of the bell to the front output.
Masiony
1/2 ton status
i had to clock the 241 up a bit to keep a flat belly. the s10 drivetrain slopes down a lot as it goes to the rear. but, this helps my driveline clearance so i am happy with it.
my gear boxes
the belly clearance
how much i had to clock up the second case
my gear boxes
the belly clearance
how much i had to clock up the second case
are you keeping the slip yoke?
