Knock sensor or not? Man the engine builders put a hex plug in the hole for the knock sensor with like silcone and wont budge. Will it cause me issues to leave it out?
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
89 Suburban DD Build (finally a 3/4ton)
- Thread starter eclipse85k10
- Start date
Burbdood 74
Giver of not a single damn...
Yes, keep it....the computer needs the knock sensor to advance or retard the timing under load.
Thanks that's what I thought. I left it in when I took the engine to the shop and thought it was strange they plugged it instead of putting it back in
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Keep it.
got the engine dropped in today and started cleaning up these aluminum brackets, always drived me nuts how nasty they looked.
Also whats the thought on the oil cooler? I had remove mine from oil contaminate and the engine builder said not to clean it but replace or remove it since he is warranting his work for 6 months. Found a replacement cooler setup on amazon for 80 or just the oil filter adapter for 12.
http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL92...p/B006K8W5ZE/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
http://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automo...&keywords=hayden+ultra-cool+engine+oil+cooler
Also whats the thought on the oil cooler? I had remove mine from oil contaminate and the engine builder said not to clean it but replace or remove it since he is warranting his work for 6 months. Found a replacement cooler setup on amazon for 80 or just the oil filter adapter for 12.
http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL92...p/B006K8W5ZE/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
http://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automo...&keywords=hayden+ultra-cool+engine+oil+cooler
Definitely want to keep the oil cooler, especially if you want to go wheeling or towing with your 'burb. I installed an oil temp gauge on my Yukon (it has an oil cooler) and climbing a mountain the oil temp will hit 300° pretty quick. I'd hate to see what it would do without a cooler.
Burbdood 74
Giver of not a single damn...
I'm on the fence about keeping the oil cooler myself. I have one in my Sub, but I'm wondering how necessary it really is. Think of all the trucks made previously that didn't have an oil cooler. They survived for years and the oil wasn't nearly as good as it is today.
Like I said, I have one and I don't plan on getting rid of it any time soon. But if I go ahead and swap in a 454 like I'm thinking of doing, if it doesn't have an oil cooler, no big loss.
Like I said, I have one and I don't plan on getting rid of it any time soon. But if I go ahead and swap in a 454 like I'm thinking of doing, if it doesn't have an oil cooler, no big loss.
Ditch the oil cooler.
Martin
Martin
y5mgisi
1 ton status
It will be ok without but I have a theory that the oil coolers are one of the reasons the tbi motors last longer than the older carburated engines that didn't have one. Who knows if that theory has any merit.
I've been around multiple engines that had drastically shortened lives due to oil coolers.
Martin
Martin
How do you think they negatively effect it? I'm going pretty much all factory under the hood and my thought is the cooler is factory but my only hold up on not doing on is I have to order a new one.
They negatively affect it when they blow a line and dump the engine oil on the highway.
Martin
Martin
Well yeah, so does blowing a head gasket, but they're still handy.
Getting real close to firing. Been busy and tired lately so progress has been real slow but got alot done this afternoon and had to break because the minions are getting hungry!
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Exciting!
I also ran into a 90 suburban at the gas station with a 3" lift with the same rears springs I'm going to use with 33s. The stance was exactly what on mine. However even with my body damage my will look much better 
Fail! Spent two days this weekend surely thinking it would be broken in. Wouldn't turn over to set to top dead center. Took my battery to have it tested and it's good and bought a starter. No Bueno found out the starter wires that go down the back of the bell housing were pinched between the fuel lines and creating enough heat while cranking to heat up the fuel line. Well it doesn't really crank over. Clicks like it's a bad starter or low voltage. Been tracking down my grounds and no luck yet.
Did you separate the wires away from each other and the fuel line? If they're generating that much heat there's a ton of resistance in the wires. Either corrosion or broken strands.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Agreed. Also, the purple starter actuator wire shouldn't really draw too terribly much amperage. All it does is activate the solenoid. Once that is achieved all the power for the starter is pulled from the battery cables. In other words, if it's cranking slow and the battery and starter are good, the only wires to be concerned about is the positive and negative cables from the battery.
Alright it runs and broken in. Found out my braided fuel lines above the Trans leak so I'm having them rebuilt at a the House of Hose (they can do anything with hoses lol)
So since it ran and can't now in started pulling the rear end out tonight. The new stuff is ready to go in. I got a nice new impact for father's day and it conquered everything except the rear spring main eye bolts so that was a good stopping point tonight.
So since it ran and can't now in started pulling the rear end out tonight. The new stuff is ready to go in. I got a nice new impact for father's day and it conquered everything except the rear spring main eye bolts so that was a good stopping point tonight.
