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'90 K5 - Project Betty - LS3 Swap for a DD/Offroad/Utility Build

Overview Gallery Discussion
towing, 38's and a K5 isn't very safe for you, yours and other people on the road. imo

you can build a truck that will do most things pretty well, but your recipe should not be used for towing.......or going 85 mph either.

i'm not trying to be an idiot either, just lookin out for you like the others. i can't, in good conscience keep my flapper shut about the towing aspect of your build. take it for what it's worth. there, i said it :rolleyes: now back to your thread.............Bill
 
This is the 2nd comment I have gotten about towing, I mentioned above that I was not looking to pull tractor trailers, but need something so I do not have to rent a truck every time I want to buy something bigger than a suitcase.

I have seen trucks on 44's pull cigarette boats, and I had a k10 with a stock 350/3.73's/ 10 bolts/ 35" BFG MT's (not stout ride or anything to brag about) that could tow 4 round bails of hay (3000-6000 lbs including trailer) with out much issue.

I would think this guy could move an atv, fridge, or brush trailer. Unless I am missing something.

Please include reasoning/logic/science in following replys. I am interested in finding potential problems before I have them.
 
Locks/Hinges

Looking to build custom dash and console. Does anybody know of a good place to buy/order hinges or locking mechanisms for a console, etc? Looking to make a tuffy like product, for a walmart like price.

Thanks,
 
actually i made the 3rd towing comment.

ok...i'll try to make the towing issue very easy..........have you ever seen one of those spring mounted "bobble head" things people glue to their dash boards or the rear deck on cars? get the idea?

you should be fine towing a refrigerator............
 
It's fairly obvious, you want to have a very capable offroad vehicle, that apparently requires overly large tires (38"+) to give it the capability you are after, and it should still be able to tow fine.

Can't happen unfortunately. You want reasoning......

1. (the biggest factor IMHO) do you not understand the difference in sidewall height? If you are going to use, say, a 16" rim, there will be a ton more sidewall with a 39" tire vs. a 35" tire. That will make the tire more "bouncy" since there is more rubber to absorb the force of a bump, and then release that energy back in the opposite direction, bouncing back. That is part of the reason towing tires generally are 65psi + because it makes the tire "harder" and doesn't give off as much bounce back.

2. If you go with a 38" swamper, it's probably at least a 14.50" tire, or wider. Wider doesn't equal to better towing control. When compared to a milder 35x12.50, you are going to have less side to side control as those wider sizes are going to catch more grooves in the road. Anyone that has ran wide oversized tires knows what I'm talking about on the side to side "grab" that we all have felt here and there. That only gets worse when you tow and have more weight on the rear and less on the front.

3. The taller the tire, the taller the truck. The taller the truck, the taller the drop hitch. The taller the drop hitch, the further the tongue of the trailer is from the strongest part of the towrig, the frame. This gives a trailer a certain amount of "leverage" against the truck. While it's really not the big of a factor, it is something to consider.

4. Pulling power. Having the drag of big a$$ tires is already like pulling around a small imaginary trailer to begin with, the more you add to that, the less power you'll have available, the more fuel you'll use, and the more your brakes will have to work to slow down the heavier inertia of those huge tires, along with now the trailer load that you are towing.

Can you tow with 38's? Yeah, but I wouldn't tow more than about 1500lbs, and forget bad weather towing and mountain passes. Moving down to a 10 ply 35x12.50, I wouldn't be afraid to tow as much as 3K.
 
cliles said:
This is the 2nd comment I have gotten about towing, I mentioned above that I was not looking to pull tractor trailers, but need something so I do not have to rent a truck every time I want to buy something bigger than a suitcase.

I have seen trucks on 44's pull cigarette boats, and I had a k10 with a stock 350/3.73's/ 10 bolts/ 35" BFG MT's (not stout ride or anything to brag about) that could tow 4 round bails of hay (3000-6000 lbs including trailer) with out much issue.

I would think this guy could move an atv, fridge, or brush trailer. Unless I am missing something.

Please include reasoning/logic/science in following replys. I am interested in finding potential problems before I have them.
Click to expand...


dont feel bad about all the guff on towing. they are right, but so are you about people you shouldnt be towing at all pulling a 5th wheel.
i think cliles got the idea, lets get back to the build.


btw, i will be towing on 39s, pretty safely too:D

edit-its not the tires that scare me, its the wheelbase. sorry im kinda all over the place, its late, and im liqur'd up
 
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Sounds like a plan. Thanks for the advice.

I will cross that bridge when I get there.

Back to the build. I replaced the shocks and now the thing drives almost like a normal vehicle. Trying to start building replacement bumpers, steps, and interior.

Thinking about building steps that can be relatively low (wifes 5'2) but can fold up not to catch offroad. Have not found any that anybody else has built like that on here. If you have links that would be nice
 
Started on a bumper

Started on a bumper from 6" square tubing

photo.JPG

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I was not planning on it. Let me know if you think this is a mistake. Here are my reasons

1. I have already built the brackets and tacked them to the bumper (I know I can get them off, but it would be a pain)

2. This is my first attempt at fabrication, so while I am sure this bumper will probably exceed OEM specifications, it may not have the durability to be yanked on in extreme situations.

3. The truck has a reciever hitch, and a clevis insert for a recovery point. I figured this point would be just as strong (could be stronger if my design/welding sucks), and it has a lower centery of gravity.

Let me know what you think.
 
Bumper Update

I was going to build a traditional bumper with swing out tire carrier, but then quickly realized that lifting a 38" tire up to chest level would get old quickly (which lends itself to swing down tire carrier). However, I think a swing down tire carrier would be impractical for daily activities and loading things in and out of the tailgate. So I decided to try to make a hybrid. I was not able to find any examples of this, so I am starting from scratch.

bumper2.JPG

bumper3.JPG
 
Digression into steps

Best I can do since my pipe bender does not exist.

I am trying to make a second step (approximately 6-8" lowers) that hinges or is able to be easily removed, as not to get torn off offroading.

Side note, I would appreciate any advice you have on interior/exterior grab handles?

Mocked up Steps.JPG
 
Also you can see the new wheels and tire combo I went with to get away from bias plys.
 
Bumper works perfectly, other than one small problem

some idiot measured the spacing for the spindle one day, and then came back an installed it on the wrong side of the line another day.

bumper4.JPG

bumper5.JPG

bumper fold down.JPG

bumper **** up.JPG
 
So, I guess I am going to need to slide the spindle over about 2".
 
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