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'90 K5 - Project Betty - LS3 Swap for a DD/Offroad/Utility Build

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So is the consensus to cut the tubes or try to knock off the C's and rotate them?

Sounds like the C's take a lot of grinding, arms are a beating to get off and back on, but at least you dont have to worry about getting the axle tubes perfectly aligned again.

Rotating tubes prevents from the beating of dealing with the C's, but you have to worry about getting the axle tubes aligned right and not warping them when welding them back together.
 
496truck said:
Yeah, I was being completely sarcastic... :waytogo:



You have it backwards... Just for future reference, positive caster is leaning back towards the firewall. Negative is towards the front.

You want to remember BOP when talking about alignment angles

Back
Out
Positive

If it tilts back or out, it's positive. This applies to caster and camber and toe.
Click to expand...

Wow. Thanks. I edited my post so it reads correct.
 
Common practice is to cut off and rotate the inner C's, leaving the axle tubes in the housing untouched.

You will need at least one spring perch (drivers axle tube) cut off and repositioned or just replaced.

Talking about a D60 here, the pass side perch is part of the housing and I'm not sure how that side is dealt with. Maybe an angle shim between the housing and spring? But that would leave the the bolts that screw into the housing at a funny angle.
 
Gotcha.

So what is the consensus on method? Either way you will have to modify the spring perches

1. Rotate the C's. Sounds like a PITA to grind them down, knock them off, rotate them and beat them back on (not sure why people knock them off and dont just try to rotate once free, might come to me if I saw it being done). Positive aspect is that you dont have to worry about getting the axle tube perfectly aligned.

2. Cut the tube, rotate, weld back together. Obvious upside is not having to deal with the tight tolerance of the C's, downside is fitting it back together perfectly, and not warping the tube when welding it back together.
 
Not sure trying to contact the vendor to see if they fabbed, bought it, etc.
 
I think the consensus on what method is best is going to be cutting and turning the c's. You shouldn't really even have to take the arms off would you?
 
I found a guy who has a lathe and press jigged up specifically to remove and rotate the C's so I am going to bite the bullet and get it done. Is there anything I should be doing while I am at it? Shock relocation? Bracing? Gusseting?
 
I would think that all the mounts would need rotated the same amount that the c's are being rotated.
 
You are right, I was taken that as a given. I will have to rotate the shock mounts, perch, and figure out what to do with the perch cast into the housing.

I should have been more specific. Should I relocate the factory shock brackets somewhere different, etc? The reason I ask is because typically I do a lot of research before making a modification, and have not put much thought into fabbing either one of my axles because there was never a reason to have them off.
 
I would just start with the C's and only modify what needs to be. I would think you could get away with shims in the spring pack for the perches. So that would leave just the shock mounts?
 
And realistically, if you wanted, I would think you wouldn't need to mess with shock mounts unless you really wanted to. They would just be up a little further after the cut and turn. I'm just not sure how much shim between the axle and spring you can get away with. Probably as much as you need if you just get shims that are like zero rates. So, in my mind, all you need to do is cut and turn the c's. And then your done.
 
stan1688 said:
I would just start with the C's and only modify what needs to be. I would think you could get away with shims in the spring pack for the perches. So that would leave just the shock mounts?
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y5mgisi said:
And realistically, if you wanted, I would think you wouldn't need to mess with shock mounts unless you really wanted to. They would just be up a little further after the cut and turn. I'm just not sure how much shim between the axle and spring you can get away with. Probably as much as you need if you just get shims that are like zero rates. So, in my mind, all you need to do is cut and turn the c's. And then your done.
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It's a D60 guys. The pass side spring perch is cast into the housing as well as uses 2 bolts and 1 u-bolt on that side instead of 2 u-bolts.
He's gonna have to find something like this (from previous page, already discussed).
attachment.php


The shock mounts may be fine as they will just be rotated up slightly, as said. They can always be cut off and replaced if needed after you get the Cs turned and the axle back under the truck.
 
I doubt something like that will be needed. That's on a rig with something like 12" of lift (which would require the C's to be rotated quite a bit). On the side with the perch cast into the housing, he can just run a shim on the top side of the spring, only rotated 180 degrees from the bottom one. That's how I ran it on my 60 with 6 degree shims and never had a problem.
 
Right. We already talked a bit about that. If it's not severe enough to justify a block like that, you will still have to at least modify the spring plate on that side and possibly use tapered washers under the bolt heads.
 
Cut and Turn and Thanks

Thanks you guys are the best. I do not know what people did without the internet for research and helpful forums for research.

I think I will add support to the knuckles, move the spring perch, and shock mounts using DIY4X's kits. I am also going to get the frame box kit, and see what I can get done with where I am. I figure a partially boxed frame is better than no box at all.

Knuckle kit GM60-400x400.jpg

14 BFF Spring perches-400x400.jpg
 
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