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'90 K5 - Project Betty - LS3 Swap for a DD/Offroad/Utility Build

Overview Gallery Discussion
First up I would suggest finding a different location to take a measurement on the trans. Whatever it is you're measureing off of must be out of true in comparison to the output shaft.

If that is not the case, there is a problem between the case and trans.

With the currrent measurements you have, disregarding the trans for the moment, your tcase could stand to come up just a smidge. 6.5 degrees down is a little on the heavy side IMO.

according to your graphic, your front yoke has a 31* working angle. Currently if you brought the tcase back up to 4-5* that's not going to save you enough to make the difference. Gona need to make adjustments somewhere else.

Talk to ya soon.
 
Tcase Angle

It is possible that the tranny pan is dipping which is throwing the angle off. Here is a more detailed mock up. Raising the tranny/tcase shouldnt be a problem, this is just where the stock crossmember left it.

Tcase Mock Up2.jpg
 
Rear Pinion Angle

Rear Pinion Angle

22.6 degrees from horizontal. I know you are suppose to go off the yoke, but I couldnt rotate it at the time.

Rear Pinion Angle.jpg
 
I thought so too, but it zero'd again on the frame. I will try to move the wheels and turn the yoke for another measurement.
 
Dana 60 Yoke to Flange

Have made a lot more progress than I have posted.

Getting ready to bite the bullet on either Tom Woods or H.A.D.'s expensive a$$ front shaft, and more palatable rear shaft but I am getting some pressure from H.A.D. to swap out my D60's yoke for a flange.

I have never had a truck with this much HP/TQ before, would anybody suggest that I do it? I am at the point that I really just want to put the shafts on and never think about them again. If an extra $100 can do that, then so be it.

Along the same topic, how difficult is it to swap out the yoke on Dana 60's? From the old manual I have it looks pretty straight forward other than some of the specifications regarding the preload. Does it really have to be horizontal or can you swap them out while they are sprung?

Any advice would be great.
 
You can change yokes and check pinion bearing preload while the axle is in the truck. You may get a little fluid leakage out of the pinion when you remove the yoke, so be prepared for that. Also, replace the pinion seal if you are changing the yoke to a new flange. 1. it's cheap insurance 2. old seals don't like to make a good seal on a new surface.

I've only begun this tech article, but it starts with a rundown on pinion seal and pinion bearing preload checking. It may vary slightly with your D60, but the procedure is basically the same. Also note, the pic with the specs has D60 listed over to the right and cut off. I can look at the book and see what it calls for pinion bearing preload specs for you if you don't have them.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=311872
 
Yoke to Flange Conversion

I put a call into fort worth gear and axle who did differential and gear swap, and they said there was no crush sleeve, the preload is already set internally and I just need to tighten the pinion nut as tight as I can.
 
Crossmember Build

Got the crossmember done a while ago but was waiting to finish making the hole cover before installing.

I incorporated the old tcase support rod into the crossmember with a disconnect on the crossmember frame because of what a beating it is to get the bolts to the tcase on and off. I am not sure how much this helps or whether it is necessary or not, but it was not hard to do after you have gone through this much effort.

Crossmember and Skid Plates in Paint.jpg

Crossmember.jpg

Crossmember From Rear.jpg

Crossmember Tcase Support.jpg
 
Crossmember Build Continued

And with the skid plates.

I cut them out of a 1/4" plywood size plate I got from the scrap yard years ago. I am loving this steelsaw. I am to the point where I do not remember how I did without it.

Crossmember with skid plates.jpg

Crossmember from Front.jpg
 
Tcase Hole Cover

Once the tcase was clocked, it needed an inch or so of extra floorboard clearance which gave me some fits because of the irregular shaped hole I cut.

I built a ring around the hole to start, then mirrored it on the underside. Added the plate, and tried to have it slope back to the floor towards the front where space wasn't needed on the off chance that it interfered with the passengers left foot/comfortable seating position.

I then had to modify the seat bracket, which wasnt that big of an ordeal because the holes were right to begin with.

Hole Cover being fabbed.jpg

Hole Cover with Modified Seat Bracket.jpg

Hole Cover with Modified Seat Bracket2.jpg
 
For those who are interested in shafts

Drive shafts came in. I went with a 1310 series up front and 1350 for the rear. I know most people would push for the BAMF or the H.A.D.'s 42 degree but my front shaft was in the low 30's, and I am interested in using this thing on the road if DFW has another ice-agedon. Plus you could go through about 4.5 of these before you equal H.A.D.'s 42. I figured I had less than a 22% (1/4.5) chance of breaking this one, so why not try it first.

Packing was good, shipping was quick, turn around 4 business day (including the day order was placed in the afternoon), customer service was great, etc.

Drive Shaft Comaprison.jpg

Drive Shaft Comaprison CV.jpg

Drive Shaft Comaprison Flange.jpg
 
Trouble busting a nut

Look gentlemen it happens to the best of us sometimes.

So both of my pinon/flange nuts are on there really good. I tried electric and air impacts, no go. Started on it with a ratchet and breaker bar but kept having the truck want to roll, plus extension hits body/frame/etc. I made a yoke holder out of scrap, but had the same issue because there is enough play in the differential to allow it to rotate before the holder rest against something resulting in not enough room to crank the breaker bar.

Long story short, am I doing something stupid? Is there and easier way to do this?
 
I had to chock the tires on my 14 bolt, have someone hold the brakes and then used a breaker bar and a floor Jack to get the nut loose.
 
5ft breaker bar and a big ass adjustable wrench to hold the yoke against the ground
 
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