Thanks guys. I just wanted to make sure it was really supposed to be that difficult. I'll try having someone hold the breaks first. Hard to chock the wheels on the skates. Which brings me to my second question. It is a bitch to Jack up the axles bc i have not been able to find a noncommercial jack that will raise high enough. In the front I can used the off center diff, even though I don't like to. Normally just end up looking like a coon-ass with a bunch of blocks stacked on top of the jack. Was thinking about fabbing up an attachment to fit on the end of the jack.
CK5
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'90 K5 - Project Betty - LS3 Swap for a DD/Offroad/Utility Build
- Thread starter cliles
- Start date
So I got the yokes off, and put the flanges on. I didnt replace the pinion seal because
A. The auto parts store didnt have any, special order
B. They had recently been replaced
C. Werent leaking or in bad shape.
Was that mistake?
A. The auto parts store didnt have any, special order
B. They had recently been replaced
C. Werent leaking or in bad shape.
Was that mistake?
Yes
No.
Martin
Martin
Worst case scenario.... it leaks and you have to replace the seal at a later date. I wouldn't sweat it. Like I said, I would've done it for cheap insurance so that I wouldn't have to do it again (I dislike doing the same job twice).
y5mgisi
1 ton status
How many miles did they have on them? Less thank 10k?then I wouldn't worry about it.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Lol yea your good.
For those who would clock tcases
So turns out that my new front driveshaft aint going to work. The picture on the gauge sucks, but it says 28 degrees. However the angle at the flanges is severe enough to cause it to bind at static ride height.
The part that I do not get is that I thought clocking the Tcase was a routine procedure, like getting your tonsils removed. Everybody on CK5 does it, and most of them have larger lifts than myself. Could really use some advice on this issue.
Here is the response I got from the vendor. He is a nice guy, offered a full refund, so don't be too harsh if you dont agree with his logic. Short of unclocking (which I dont want to do because I have just put all this time and effort into doing it), he recommends rotating the front axle. This has a couple of problems, 1 it would be a bit of a PITA and derail my already derailed project, 2 I was under the impression it was much more difficult than the rear because of the steering arm-draglink-etc.
Me
Sounds like I am going to need the Flange Type Multiple Double Cardan or BAMF shaft? Either that or unclock the Tcase, which I rather not do after all of the effort put into the X-member, hole in the floor, etc.
Him
A multiple double cardan drive shaft would make the flexibility problem worse as, the center pivot points become closer together and would increase the slope on the drive shaft. Because a BAMF CV is longer from the face of the flange to the center pivot point, it would have the same effect.
If it would work though, a multiple double cardan drive shaft would net a smoother operating drive shaft. However, given the angularity problem you have, this is about a moot point.
Honestly, I think the best mechanical solution would be to do a cut and turn on the front differential so you can get good drive shaft geometry and also maintain good steering caster. I wish I had a better answer as I know this is difficult and can be expensive.
So turns out that my new front driveshaft aint going to work. The picture on the gauge sucks, but it says 28 degrees. However the angle at the flanges is severe enough to cause it to bind at static ride height.
The part that I do not get is that I thought clocking the Tcase was a routine procedure, like getting your tonsils removed. Everybody on CK5 does it, and most of them have larger lifts than myself. Could really use some advice on this issue.
Here is the response I got from the vendor. He is a nice guy, offered a full refund, so don't be too harsh if you dont agree with his logic. Short of unclocking (which I dont want to do because I have just put all this time and effort into doing it), he recommends rotating the front axle. This has a couple of problems, 1 it would be a bit of a PITA and derail my already derailed project, 2 I was under the impression it was much more difficult than the rear because of the steering arm-draglink-etc.
Me
Sounds like I am going to need the Flange Type Multiple Double Cardan or BAMF shaft? Either that or unclock the Tcase, which I rather not do after all of the effort put into the X-member, hole in the floor, etc.
Him
A multiple double cardan drive shaft would make the flexibility problem worse as, the center pivot points become closer together and would increase the slope on the drive shaft. Because a BAMF CV is longer from the face of the flange to the center pivot point, it would have the same effect.
If it would work though, a multiple double cardan drive shaft would net a smoother operating drive shaft. However, given the angularity problem you have, this is about a moot point.
Honestly, I think the best mechanical solution would be to do a cut and turn on the front differential so you can get good drive shaft geometry and also maintain good steering caster. I wish I had a better answer as I know this is difficult and can be expensive.
A good friend of mine does drivetrain work. He may be able to help you work that out. He also has the ability to fix your housing.
RogueFab
Registered Member
You can cut and turn the knuckles or the diff. Easier route depends on your setup and how much stuff you have welded to your axle. It really isn't too hard to do, you can make a jig out of some VERY straight angle iron if you don't have access to a nice big set of V blocks. Trussing your housing after the rotation is a good insurance policy too.
And make sure you research your pinion oiling, they all have a max angle they like to operate at for a given use (highway, street, trail, etc). And you will have to move your diff fill plug too.
You probably already knew most of this... But it never hurts to bring it up
And make sure you research your pinion oiling, they all have a max angle they like to operate at for a given use (highway, street, trail, etc). And you will have to move your diff fill plug too.
You probably already knew most of this... But it never hurts to bring it up
I didnt know a thing, thanks for the help. I was actually thinking he was talking about the rotating the spring perches, that makes a lot more sense.
Sounds like if I were to go that route, it would probably be best just to find another axle, do the work and then swap out the guts with my current one.
Sounds like if I were to go that route, it would probably be best just to find another axle, do the work and then swap out the guts with my current one.
I've seen them do it on TV plenty of times. Usually they're done in less than 30 minutes.
My quick googling makes me think it would take quite a bit longer than that. They always make things look so easy on TV, everything is clean, everything is new, a$$holes.
I searched, but couldnt find any prefabbed units, at least quickly. I checked DIY4X and some other common vendors, and didnt see anything really to help "easy button" the project other than spring perches.
I searched, but couldnt find any prefabbed units, at least quickly. I checked DIY4X and some other common vendors, and didnt see anything really to help "easy button" the project other than spring perches.
RogueFab
Registered Member
You don't want to mess with the spring perches. The 15-25 degrees you probably need on your pinion will take your caster from 2-6 degrees positive and put it to WAY negative. Positive caster lifts the car when steering, this is why it self-centers (gravity does it). Negative caster does the opposite. It will self-steer and cause a wreck if you aren't holding onto the wheel.
Another way to fixture the axle is with tube sleeves or square barstock. If you can find a DOM tube that has a few thousandths larger ID than your axle OD, you can cut the axle twice, cut some windows in the DOM sleeves, and slide them on your axle, do the rotation, tack weld, cut off the sleeves, and then finish welding.
Another option- Cut the axle, then line up the tubes, and clamp two pieces of square barstock about 8 inches wide centered on the cut 180 degrees from each other. Clamp two more on so you have 4 evenly spaced around the tube. Now they are going to be perfectly in line (well, as perfect as your bar stock and your axle). Put some heavy tack welds on it, unclamp, finish weld.
Home depot sells little magnetic weighted protractors. They are just accurate enough for this kind of work. Set them on the knuckes, make them match at -6 or 7 degrees, crank the pinion up where you want it, and you are good to go. Keep in mind I am talking about 6 or 7 degrees on the kingpin axis. You need to figure out how to line them up with that, your steering arms may not be 90 degrees to that line.
All that make sense?
He was kidding about the 30 min. Too much power block TV! I would think once you have all the tools it can be done in about an hour and a half, maybe 2.
EDIT: Thanks 496truck. I fixed the negative/positive mix up.
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y5mgisi
1 ton status
I'm afraid the vendor is right. I think the only way to get away without doing it, isn't really a great option. But you could run 1480 (I think) single u joints on both ends. I bet that would get you able to use 4wd . but it's not as good or permanent a solution as cutting and turning the housing.
Yeah, I was being completely sarcastic...
You have it backwards... Just for future reference, positive caster is leaning back towards the firewall. Negative is towards the front.
You want to remember BOP when talking about alignment angles
Back
Out
Positive
If it tilts back or out, it's positive. This applies to caster and camber and toe.
