'90 K5 "Project Sanity" Sold 7/5/2018

[tRustyK5]

So cutting off the exhaust is the easy part. Removing the manifolds has me in a bit of a quandary.

On the driver's side there is a stamped steel bracket attached to the front two exhaust studs. It goes up to the back of the alt...easy enough to unbolt. However it also goes to two places on the PS pump.

Some pics...

As you can see the studs broke off, no real surprise there.

The back of the PS pump. You can see one bolt in the foreground, the other is hiding in behind the pressure line in this pic. My question is for anyone that has a 90 or 91 and installed headers...

Did you have to make a custom bracket of some sort, if so do you have pics?

Second, what is the easiest way to get the PS pump out of there so I can at least get the manifold off for now?

 

[Slapperbar]

Most headers come with spacers for the alt. bracket. To remove the pump, I believe the pulley needs to be removed.

 

[82355]

I usually just use a set of (non broken) factory studs. Flip them around, screw them in the head to secure the header. Then take a couple 3/8-16 nuts, and thread them onto the end of the exposed studs. Slide the bracket over the studs so the nuts are up against the back of the bracket, and then screw a couple more 3/8-16 nuts against the front side of the bracket.

Martin

 

[Teck]

Just take the bracket off and the pump comes off with it. The bracket is on behind the pulley that is pressed on. You will should have gotten spacers with the headers but if not make som or get some at the hardware store

 

[tRustyK5]

Just take the bracket off and the pump comes off with it. The bracket is on behind the pulley that is pressed on. You will should have gotten spacers with the headers but if not make som or get some at the hardware store

Do I have to remove the pulley? Gonna have another look, I'll check back in a bit.

 

[82355]

You only have to remove the pulley if you actually want to take the pump loose from the bracket. The bracket will come off the block with the pump still attached to the bracket.

Martin

 

[frankin5]

You only have to remove the pulley if you actually want to take the pump loose from the bracket. The bracket will come off the block with the pump still attached to the bracket.

Martin

Isn't there a bolt behind the pulley at the bottom of the aluminum bracket that can not be accessed with the pulley on?

 

[82355]

Actually, you may be right. I just never reuse that bolt when I go back together.

Martin

 

[tRustyK5]

You only have to remove the pulley if you actually want to take the pump loose from the bracket. The bracket will come off the block with the pump still attached to the bracket.

Martin

I dunno, neither of the two bolts on the backside are really accessible. I found both bolts that go into the front, but both are behind the pulley. To remove the entire aluminum chunk with the PS and alt looked good, until I found one bolt behind the can of the PS pump. Everything I see so far tells me the pulley comes off and things get easier from there.

 

[82355]

Yeah, I forgot about that. That one bolt has to come out after the pulley comes off, but no one puts it back in when they reinstall it, so it usually isn't there. I did an engine swing for a buddy last spring and ran into one that still had it. I remember being real pissed off. Do yourself a favor and throw that bolt in your bolt bin.

Martin

 

[ryoken]

the puller/install tool is pretty cheap.. and the only way to get em off really... i use mine at work at least a couple times a month...

 

[82355]

Yeah, they are not very pricy. I have a nice Cornwell one, but it wouldn't hurt my feelings to not have to use it.

Martin

 

[Slapperbar]

HF has the puller too. Mine worked just fine.

 

[tRustyK5]

I picked up a remover/installer set today. Got the pulley off and will carry on after my dinner. Thanks guys!

 

[tRustyK5]

Got the driver's side off, and got all but one bolt off on the passenger side. I hate manifolds and the rust associated with them. The last bolt is at the back, and the head of the bolt is rounded. i'm gonna have to zip cut the head off...tomorrow. Had enough for tonight, fought every fricken bolt. I was disappointed to be foiled by a single bolt.

 

[ryoken]

if you end up with just a stud once the manny is off... give it a couple shots straight on with a mini sledge, deadblowish hammer, than a small pipe wrench to turn it out.. yup, not visegrips, a pipe wrench...

 

[max 02]

What happened to the front bumper that was on it...sell it off?

I`ll see what we got out back today and let you know.
I know Darrell's got a front bumper but I don`t know if he kept the brackets.

Good to know you are going to keep the blazer though.

Although I did like the plan you were talking about at my place last time you were here.

 

[tRustyK5]

I was planning on the pipe wrench. I don't think it's all the tight in the block...

Dean, I scrapped the old winch bumper. It was messed up. I think I have some brackets here...

Headers and mufflers showed up, pics before I go to bed. Gonna dig out my grinder and attack the manifold bolt in a few minutes.

 

[tRustyK5]

Pics...you all love them, so here they are.

First, the old claptrap I used to call exhaust. Finally all off the truck and on the ground. The passenger manifold I ended up zip-cutting the last bolt head off, then fighting the remains with my pipe wrench for about an hour. I just couldn't get a good angle on it. As suspected it wasn't that tight, but it still frustrated me for quite a while.

Some parts pRon...

Hedman elite's, PN#69830 coated headers. Flowmaster Super 44's in 3".

Some detail pics. 3/8" flanges, nice welds and the coating extends into the tubes a fair ways.

Collectors, and my only (small) bitch. 2.5" collectors...

A small victory shot.

Getting the header over the dipstick tube was a bit of fun, but doable once the brace was unbolted. I am trying some new header gaskets, pure graphite, no re-torque required, guaranteed not to leak. 20 ft/lbs of tq max. Due to the thickness off the Hedman flanges and the thickness of the graphite gaskets I went with ARP intake bolts for the extra length. All torqued the never bottomed out and I'm happier with a bit more thread engagement.

Best part of the 69830's is no collector/shackle issues like with ever other header out there. They also tuck up higher which is nice.

Driver's side tomorrow, and some planning time for tube chunks. Also gonna find out whether or not I need to use cats here to pass inspection.

 

[Teck]

Looking good. Nice progress.
Why did you choose 3" pipe over 2 1/2'"?
How loud are the super 44"s