DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
Rene, is it an out of province inspection? Or an insurance inspection? I can do an insurance ins for you. I can't do an oop though.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
'90 K5 "Project Sanity" Sold 7/5/2018
- Thread starter tRustyK5
- Start date
andyblack
Registered Loser
I really like the way the headers don't go down nearly as far as most. That's way better for a four wheel drive truck with solid axles like ours. I wonder if they make them with a normal 3" collector though. You're going to have a hard time finding gaskets for them at your local parts stores. Hopefully they'll never blow out though.
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
The collector is a ball and socket design. No gaskets.
It needs out of province inspection.
Do you know if he needs cats...I don`t think so but.
Rene you are right those headers fit nice...but I was thinking,you are going to have fun getting 3" pipe around the trasfercase crossmember.
Took me a half a day to cut and weld and fit my 2.5 pipe around mine and it`s tight.
Good luck!
it's almost a straight shot back past the X-member from the collector, should be pretty easy from what I've seen so far.
Luke, it's an out of province inspection I need.
Luke, it's an out of province inspection I need.
I almost forgot how much fun this crap can be...
I managed to rip the wire out of the knock sensor plug, had to rebuild and carefully re-crimp a new section. Spark plug access, is mostly good. #5 and #6 require a wrench though. I was hoping for better. Clearance around the spark plug boots is decent though.
I had to mess with the dipstick tube some so it was straight enough for the dipstick to go in and out. I managed to bend it some during the passenger install.
I just zip cut the power steering bracket brace thing. It seemed overkill for support anyways. I may regret that, we'll see.
Tomorrow I'll re-install the pulley and belt, and work on the collectors/O2 bung...then map out my pipe requirements. I'm gonna inboard the rear shocks and push the tailpipes outside the frame in front of the bump stop brackets. There is no way to fit 3" beside the fuel tank.
Sorry, no pics tonight.
I managed to rip the wire out of the knock sensor plug, had to rebuild and carefully re-crimp a new section. Spark plug access, is mostly good. #5 and #6 require a wrench though. I was hoping for better. Clearance around the spark plug boots is decent though.
I had to mess with the dipstick tube some so it was straight enough for the dipstick to go in and out. I managed to bend it some during the passenger install.
I just zip cut the power steering bracket brace thing. It seemed overkill for support anyways. I may regret that, we'll see.
Tomorrow I'll re-install the pulley and belt, and work on the collectors/O2 bung...then map out my pipe requirements. I'm gonna inboard the rear shocks and push the tailpipes outside the frame in front of the bump stop brackets. There is no way to fit 3" beside the fuel tank.
Sorry, no pics tonight.
Why'd you go so big on the exhaust pipe? Always thought dual 3" was kind of big for a stockish 350.
andyblack
Registered Loser
I remember my power steering pump had an extra brace sorta like the one you showed. Seems like it may have been attached to the smog pump too. It's been a while so I don't remember. Anyway, I just took it off (along with the smog pump) and used the long bolt that had been used for the bracket and a big stack of washers for the front header bolt on the driver's side. It's actually about the only one that has never loosened up on me any. I'll take a pic later on when the sun comes up if I remember.
I cut the bracket on mine too with the same headers... No regrets so far, and its been almost two years...
Well obviously I'm compensating...
I like the sound of dual 3" over 2.5" which I've had behind a mild 350 before. Plus I may go big block down the road, in which case the exhaust will already be the perfect size.
Ordered a Grffin rad and a B&M shifter for it this afternoon. The old rad was trashed. Also got a new B&M stacked plate tranny cooler. I noticed when I got home the stock rad has a spigot for a heater hose, and of course the griffin does not...good heat is gonna be a must. Anyone with any suggestions?
Maybe you can put a t in one of the hose.
tRustyK5;3150864 I noticed when I got home the stock rad has a spigot for a heater hose said:Do you know anyone that can weld one on...
Sure Dean, I could do that with a nice TIG machine I don't have. It seems that is the return side of the heater core. I'm thinking of making a Tee above the T-stat area...
Unless someone has a more elegant solution? I know the old V-belt style water pump had the spigot on top for that heater hose. The reverse rotation WP has no such feature.
Ended up with a different brand rad. I inadvertantly ordered the wrong size yesterday. I mistakenly ordered a rad 19" x 26" instead of 31" as I intended. They had a PRW rad there in 19" x 31" same everything as the Griffin. $90 more, but I didn't have to wait til Monday. Fortunately I didn't have to pay a re-stocking charge.
Pics in a minute...
Unless someone has a more elegant solution? I know the old V-belt style water pump had the spigot on top for that heater hose. The reverse rotation WP has no such feature.
Ended up with a different brand rad. I inadvertantly ordered the wrong size yesterday. I mistakenly ordered a rad 19" x 26" instead of 31" as I intended. They had a PRW rad there in 19" x 31" same everything as the Griffin. $90 more, but I didn't have to wait til Monday. Fortunately I didn't have to pay a re-stocking charge.
Pics in a minute...
This thing is way too shiny for something I own...
Pictured with the B&M unimatic shifter
Some rad detail shots....
Multiple mount areas on the front and sides of the tanks...
Now to find enough time to get this stuff done.
Pictured with the B&M unimatic shifter
Some rad detail shots....
Multiple mount areas on the front and sides of the tanks...
Now to find enough time to get this stuff done.
That sure is pretty. Looks like something I should have gotten for mine. (already had a good 4 core). Nice nice.
Now get to work on it.
Now get to work on it.
I want to put about 10 uninterrupted hours into it...problem is my boss gave me a pair of tickets to the football game tonight, and I got voluntold to work tomorrow. Won't really be able to do anything to it until tomorrow afternoon...
Oh well, Go Eskimo's!
Oh well, Go Eskimo's!
So... get anything done.
Sweet parts Rene! But I don`t get how they don`t supply you with a spot for the heater.
And WTF!! I thought it was GO B.C.!!
Come on man you just moved and you turned coat already!
Next thing you will be cheering for the focking Oilers.
OH BTW talked to CAN CAN tonight...get ready!!!
Sweet parts Rene! But I don`t get how they don`t supply you with a spot for the heater.
And WTF!! I thought it was GO B.C.!!
Come on man you just moved and you turned coat already!
Next thing you will be cheering for the focking Oilers.
OH BTW talked to CAN CAN tonight...get ready!!!
B&M shifter installed tonight. i get why they didn't have that heater hose port on the rad...95% of anything out there that would use that rad would have that heater hose go to the water pump where it belongs.
Tomorrow I work on the rad. My factory shroud doesn't look like it's gonna work. Time to peruse Summit and see what's out there I guess.
Tomorrow I work on the rad. My factory shroud doesn't look like it's gonna work. Time to peruse Summit and see what's out there I guess.
If you get the right reman reverse flow water pump, it does have the port in the top with a plug in it. Go look at the ones on the shelf at a local parts place, might be worth the $20 for a new water pump.
Martin
Martin
