Made a minor cosmetic improvement too...
CK5
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'90 K5 "Project Sanity" Sold 7/5/2018
- Thread starter tRustyK5
- Start date
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Sounds nice! Surprisingly quiet!
Sounds and looks good man!
K5 Jess
1/2 ton status
Sounds perfect!
Good sound!
That bunper shine up OK?
That bunper shine up OK?
Good sound!
That bunper shine up OK?
yep, looks passably decent, making it a match for the rear. Thanks again!
Very similar, but a bit smoother sounding...I think because of the balance tube. It is a 270K mile stock TBI 350, so I'm not surprised it's relatively quiet. Believe it or not but I managed to squeak the exhaust past the shocks where they were...which saved me some work relocating them.
Need to get into the front end, ball joints need replacing mostly but I also have one axle U-joint that's fizzucked. Gonna try to find who might sell Spicer around here, and gotta try and search up the pn# for the forged version.
Going to check the DLE's too...might just replace that whole thing.
Got a rear U-joint that's on it's way out, that one I have "in stock". I actually have a front axle U-joint "in stock" too but it's not Spicer so I'll probably keep it aside for a trail spare. You never know, I may actually go wheeling again one day.
After that it's just double check the lights, horn etc.
I will probably chuck on some tube rockers too. Don't think it'll pass with a missing rocker, and don't feel like adding flimsy sheet metal where box tube works better and lasts longer.
Somewhere down the road I'll have to replace that whistling power steering pump too, but I think it'll do for now. My pulley removal/install tool was really good at removal, and no good at all for the install part. I got fed up, heated it to 250 F in the oven and still had to hammer it on...
Apparently the bearings didn't like that too much.
Going to check the DLE's too...might just replace that whole thing.
Got a rear U-joint that's on it's way out, that one I have "in stock". I actually have a front axle U-joint "in stock" too but it's not Spicer so I'll probably keep it aside for a trail spare. You never know, I may actually go wheeling again one day.
After that it's just double check the lights, horn etc.
I will probably chuck on some tube rockers too. Don't think it'll pass with a missing rocker, and don't feel like adding flimsy sheet metal where box tube works better and lasts longer.
Somewhere down the road I'll have to replace that whistling power steering pump too, but I think it'll do for now. My pulley removal/install tool was really good at removal, and no good at all for the install part. I got fed up, heated it to 250 F in the oven and still had to hammer it on...
Apparently the bearings didn't like that too much.
x2.
Working on ball joints. Went with Moog top and bottom. Had a bastard of a time finding the adjuster sleeve socket. I finally searched the napa catalog online, found the napa pn# and went back to them and ordered it in. Pretty pathetic, but I got one now. OTC 7080 for anyone else looking...
Replaced the entire drag link assembly and got the driver's side back together as far as I can until I can get the new axle U-joints Mon or Tues.
I greased the ever loving crap out of everything on re-assembly...
At least if I ever need to take it apart anytime soon it'll be possible even in the worst circumstances. (ie wheeling)
Replaced the entire drag link assembly and got the driver's side back together as far as I can until I can get the new axle U-joints Mon or Tues.
I greased the ever loving crap out of everything on re-assembly...
At least if I ever need to take it apart anytime soon it'll be possible even in the worst circumstances. (ie wheeling)
You have a link for the joints you used or did you buy them in store?
I will be in the same ballpark soon and want to get a idea what I'm looking at.
I will be in the same ballpark soon and want to get a idea what I'm looking at.
Moog pn# K8194T
Moog pn# K8195T
Those are the upper and lower ball joints. Not sure on your local pricing but here they ran me about $71 for each upper and about $63 for each lower
Drag link ends were:
TRW pn#ES2027L
TRW pn#ES2026R
One left hand thread, the other right hand thread. The adjuster sleeve was:
TRW pn#ES362S
The whole drag link assembl;y ran about $150.
Hope that helps.
The ball joint adjuster sleeve spanner tool was $34 locally. I also bought a ball joint press tool for $119 that means not having to take the knuckle somewhere to have the old ball joints pressed out and new ones pressed in. Having done that before I figure I already paid for half that tool set. The cool thing is it works well for U-joints too, like axle U-joints. I'll see if I can find a link for that too.
Moog pn# K8195T
Those are the upper and lower ball joints. Not sure on your local pricing but here they ran me about $71 for each upper and about $63 for each lower
Drag link ends were:
TRW pn#ES2027L
TRW pn#ES2026R
One left hand thread, the other right hand thread. The adjuster sleeve was:
TRW pn#ES362S
The whole drag link assembl;y ran about $150.
Hope that helps.
The ball joint adjuster sleeve spanner tool was $34 locally. I also bought a ball joint press tool for $119 that means not having to take the knuckle somewhere to have the old ball joints pressed out and new ones pressed in. Having done that before I figure I already paid for half that tool set. The cool thing is it works well for U-joints too, like axle U-joints. I'll see if I can find a link for that too.
Sigh, I wish we had harbor freight here...
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-ball-joint-u-joint-c-frame-press-service-kit-38335.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-ball-joint-u-joint-c-frame-press-service-kit-38335.html
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
It is a handy tool to have in these instances.
Awesome, thank you very much .
We got Pincess Auto... we got a press like that at the farm, I think I payed 90.00.
Did you spray you springs and parts with some black spraybomb?
Looks good!
Did you spray you springs and parts with some black spraybomb?
Looks good!
Satin black BB-Q enamel. Lasts a fairly long time, most of that stuff was just dusty/dirty. It had all been cleaned and sprayed about 2 1/2 years ago.
andyblack
Registered Loser
I got that Harbor Freight ball joint press in your pic. It works good for these knuckles. I just don't use any of the adapters they give you with the press. I don't know what they're used on really.
Moog joints are the way to go.
Also I think you did the right thing by getting a whole new drag link. I bought two new ends for mine for about $35 USD each and just kept the original sleeve part. Well now it squeeks sometimes, no matter how much I grease the ends or tighten them up. Drives me nuts. I guess the threads may be a little rusty or something.
Moog joints are the way to go.
Also I think you did the right thing by getting a whole new drag link. I bought two new ends for mine for about $35 USD each and just kept the original sleeve part. Well now it squeeks sometimes, no matter how much I grease the ends or tighten them up. Drives me nuts. I guess the threads may be a little rusty or something.
