OK I cleaned that picture post up a bit...
Also, having O2 sensors installed and plugged in sure makes a difference!!
Also, having O2 sensors installed and plugged in sure makes a difference!!
CK5
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'90 K5 "Project Sanity" Sold 7/5/2018
- Thread starter tRustyK5
- Start date
Deadly 
Sounds real good!
You need to keep Nick around for a bit longer...nice work guys!
You need to keep Nick around for a bit longer...nice work guys!
I think it's very reasonable Dave. I think my phone's mic doesn't really record really good compared to my ears (or vicy versy). It's quieter than my phone makes it sound...and I think being inside a garage amplifies things some too. I think it's maybe a bit quieter than regular duals I've had in the past. It does bark pretty good when you rev it, but again not stupid loud. We'll see if it drones or is otherwise annoying once I can drive it some. I think it'll be fine though. I could always add a high flow cat somewhere if I feel it'd help...
From the "Y" back it's the mirror of the exhaust on Nicks truck. This used to be the full 3" dual system you were helping me with when you were here. The driver's side ended up under Nick's truck, and I have the passenger side under mine.
From the "Y" back it's the mirror of the exhaust on Nicks truck. This used to be the full 3" dual system you were helping me with when you were here. The driver's side ended up under Nick's truck, and I have the passenger side under mine.
Sounds like a very happy LS!
Back from the dead again...
I've been working on some somewhat mundane things on the Blazer. Having good exhaust on it has helped with the motivation level for sure.
I have had some worn 35" Cooper muds on this truck for many years, but they were not very good. Maybe 10-15% left on them and recently one went flat. With 3.42 gearing the 35's were really too much tire anyways so I began looking at some new 33's. I think the 5.3 and 4L60e will tolerate 33's OK.
Nick had some Cepek Fun Country's on his K5 and they looked good and seemed to perform well and wear well. I was looking at getting a set myself when Nick announced he was going to 35's. We quickly swung a deal on his old 33's.
Looking at my Ralley rims was depressing though. Pretty rough, paint and finish wise. I had the old 35's removed and took them to a powder coating place. I definitely misunderstood what that was going to cost when I dropped them off. $625 for all four, blasted to bare, zinc rich primer, BMW silver and a coat of clear. They look good, I think I'm going to forego running rings and caps though...
It now sits on all four newish tires and freshly powder coated rims.
Next up was a wiring issue that puzzled me. Mostly because Russel did all the wiring...
I had headlights, brake lights and signals. I didn't have park lights, or interior lights, or dash lights. I unplugged the wiring block on the engine side of the fuse block and using a 12 volt Li-Ion drill battery as a power source I confirmed all those circuits could be made to work. I had a couple of headlight switches in the truck. Nick had swapped one out for me last year sometime but it didn't fix the problem. I took the old one apart and with the drill battery and some wire and a test light I set to trying to understand exactly how the switch was meant to work.
I'm no guru like Russel, but if I'm patient I can muddle my way through. I eventually found the dash light dimming feature and made some leaps of understanding based on the guts of the switch and how I know it has to work. I originally assumed one constant hot power source, which had me chasing mt tail for a while. Eventually I realized it had to have two constant hot sources to work as I know it has to. The second constant hot was the orange wire I know runs the lighter and interior lights. I decided not to dig into the harness. I made a jumper instead. Both of these need to be constant hot. Once I added the jumper everything worked exactly as it should. Park lights come on first, with dash lights. Fully out I have headlights, park lights and dash lights...exactly as it should work. 2 1/2 hours to understand the problem, a few minutes to add one jumper and fix it. I'm pretty happy
Not sexy progress, but I am knocking them down one at a time. I'll be working on it more tomorrow, just not sure what I'm going to work on yet.
I've been working on some somewhat mundane things on the Blazer. Having good exhaust on it has helped with the motivation level for sure.
I have had some worn 35" Cooper muds on this truck for many years, but they were not very good. Maybe 10-15% left on them and recently one went flat. With 3.42 gearing the 35's were really too much tire anyways so I began looking at some new 33's. I think the 5.3 and 4L60e will tolerate 33's OK.
Nick had some Cepek Fun Country's on his K5 and they looked good and seemed to perform well and wear well. I was looking at getting a set myself when Nick announced he was going to 35's. We quickly swung a deal on his old 33's.
Looking at my Ralley rims was depressing though. Pretty rough, paint and finish wise. I had the old 35's removed and took them to a powder coating place. I definitely misunderstood what that was going to cost when I dropped them off. $625 for all four, blasted to bare, zinc rich primer, BMW silver and a coat of clear. They look good, I think I'm going to forego running rings and caps though...It now sits on all four newish tires and freshly powder coated rims.
Next up was a wiring issue that puzzled me. Mostly because Russel did all the wiring...
I had headlights, brake lights and signals. I didn't have park lights, or interior lights, or dash lights. I unplugged the wiring block on the engine side of the fuse block and using a 12 volt Li-Ion drill battery as a power source I confirmed all those circuits could be made to work. I had a couple of headlight switches in the truck. Nick had swapped one out for me last year sometime but it didn't fix the problem. I took the old one apart and with the drill battery and some wire and a test light I set to trying to understand exactly how the switch was meant to work.
I'm no guru like Russel, but if I'm patient I can muddle my way through. I eventually found the dash light dimming feature and made some leaps of understanding based on the guts of the switch and how I know it has to work. I originally assumed one constant hot power source, which had me chasing mt tail for a while. Eventually I realized it had to have two constant hot sources to work as I know it has to. The second constant hot was the orange wire I know runs the lighter and interior lights. I decided not to dig into the harness. I made a jumper instead. Both of these need to be constant hot. Once I added the jumper everything worked exactly as it should. Park lights come on first, with dash lights. Fully out I have headlights, park lights and dash lights...exactly as it should work. 2 1/2 hours to understand the problem, a few minutes to add one jumper and fix it. I'm pretty happy
Not sexy progress, but I am knocking them down one at a time. I'll be working on it more tomorrow, just not sure what I'm going to work on yet.
Progress is good. See you at blazer bash next year???!!!!
Wheels look good! Wouldn't put the rings on them either. One time...scratched forever.
I'm digging the more industrial look of plain steel ralley rims...
Knocked a few more things off the list today. Mostly mundane stuff, but it all needs done to pass inspection.
Horn...removed the grill and headlight surrounds. Used a bit of sandpaper on the connector. A bit of corrosion was all that kept it from working.
Front signal light lenses...polished while the surrounds were off.
Rear bumper...Nick cleaned and polished it up, then bolted it up
License plate light....more corrosion, but not terrible. New bulb and screws.
Transfer case X-member...A couple of holes needed drilling and new bolts located and installed.
Front bumper...has been cleaned up, needs installed
Driver's side Rocker...needs welding in
Floor patch over old shifter hole needs welding in.
Some more lame pics...
Knocked a few more things off the list today. Mostly mundane stuff, but it all needs done to pass inspection.
Horn...removed the grill and headlight surrounds. Used a bit of sandpaper on the connector. A bit of corrosion was all that kept it from working.
Front signal light lenses...polished while the surrounds were off.
Rear bumper...Nick cleaned and polished it up, then bolted it up
License plate light....more corrosion, but not terrible. New bulb and screws.
Transfer case X-member...A couple of holes needed drilling and new bolts located and installed.
Front bumper...has been cleaned up, needs installed
Driver's side Rocker...needs welding in
Floor patch over old shifter hole needs welding in.
Some more lame pics...
Ya never know. I mentioned in another thread the biggest hurdle is passport and papers stuff. I have a year to get that sorted though. The Blazer is hours from road and trail worthy...albeit 1/2 ton, poorly geared and smallish tires it should still be fun. I hope to make it for 2018.
Oh yeah, I'm not worried about it's capability. Even a stock Blazer is pretty capable. It is locked in the rear which should help a ton. I'll just have to pick trails sensibly.
Build sliders be slightly less sensible
I'll get it on the road first, then think about some small mods. For now, stock rockers...lol.
I tried to be sensible in '03 when I went, and got talked into Pritchett on the Saturday after breaking my junk the night before in the wash near Upper Helldorado. That's what happens when you show up on 40's. I'm hoping there will be less peer pressure if I show up on 33's and toothpick 10 bolts...
I tried to be sensible in '03 when I went, and got talked into Pritchett on the Saturday after breaking my junk the night before in the wash near Upper Helldorado. That's what happens when you show up on 40's. I'm hoping there will be less peer pressure if I show up on 33's and toothpick 10 bolts...
Nice job troubleshooting that headlight switch. I must have messed something up when I modified the I/P harness. I actually have a new headlight switch floating around for you somewhere which I bought for your Blazer. I'd assumed that switch was bad.
You'll be just fine rocking 3.42s, 33s and that LS powertrain. Making nice progress!!
You'll be just fine rocking 3.42s, 33s and that LS powertrain. Making nice progress!!
