'90 K5 - The Nevada Blazer [Post 1437: School me on alternators)

[colbystephens]

I just moved into Reno a couple weeks ago from So. Oregon. Loving it here. I bought this Blazer out in Fallon, about an hour east of here, on Monday night:

It's a pretty great truck. It's got the typical early 90s Chevy paint problems and a couple dings. The only real issue that needs immediate attention is that the previous owner had true dual exhaust with an H-pipe installed sans catalytic converters. So, I need to have that taken care of to get it registered.

First modifications will be to remove the goofy steps under the door, which you can't see in that pic, and perhaps also the push bar thing on the front. The only real reason I'm considering keeping the push bar for the time being is that it's got some almost decent tow hooks bolted to it.

The transmission (700r4) has only 20K miles on it. So an important early modification is going to be adding a giant transmission cooler to it, and to install a transmission oil temperature gauge. Any recommendations on what cooler and gauge to use? I'd like it to fit in the spare gauge pod on the lower left of my gauge set...

Steering brace is important. Guy locally thinks he's got one, we'll see how much he wants.

Also early in my build plan is to get a CB installed. I have an antenna, coaxial wire, and a sweet extra speaker, but I still need a CB. Recommendations?

My long-term plans are:

• Dana 60 front (open), 14 bolt full float rear w/ detroit locker. 4.56 gears.(Have now decided on 5.13s, but leaving this stuff here for reference.) This would give me the same "feel" as a stock truck on 31s with 3.73 gearing if I use my 38" Super Swamper SS tires... I think. I'm basing that assumption on the fact that the engine RPMs at any given speed would be nearly identical between the two setups. Does this seem reasonable?
• 5" of lift. I want to be able to tow a little trailer as needed, so I don't want a SUPER flexy suspension, but I want it to be capable. Thinking shackle flip rear, lift springs up front, and E-Z inch add-a-leafs for the 5th inch and the ability to relocate the axles a couple inches forward/backward. I had some 4" Procomp lift springs on my other Blazer that flexed pretty well, but they were limited by the crappy shocks I had on them that acted as bump stops and limiting straps.
• Mild cage
• Bumpers - I'm thinking of building plate bumpers for this rig instead of tube.
• York air compressor, which I already have. Just need to mount it and plumb it up and whatnot.
• Winch.
• Crossover and hydro assist steering.

I will keep this thing mostly stock for a while as I collect parts. I want to keep it drive-able throughout the whole process with the exception of it being down for a day or two here or there to install parts.

Finally, this truck needs a name. Ideas?

 

[stockk5]

Your plan sounds almost exactly how i have been building my truck. I want to keep it functional as possible while still being able to drive down the highway to trails and around town and have it down as little as possible. I dont think i can add to much to your build up list already!

oh maybe post those shots of the floors/frame.. i'd love to see what stock looks like in the wheel well behind the seat corner.

 

[79rustyk10]

I have the Auto Meter Sport Comp trans temp gauge in my pickup. PN ATM 3357 from summit racing. its 2 1/16", and electric. After installing the electric gauges, I will NEVER go back to mechanical.

Has worked awesome for me.

For the cooler, the stacked plate design is far better than the tube and fin style, more expensive also though.






And I'm jealous, that color combo is awesome, just a good looking clean K5

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Not so certain on the 4.56's.

That's considered decent for 35's with a TBI 350 and 700R4. You'd probably be high geared for a taller and much heavier 38.

 

[jt512]

Not so certain on the 4.56's.

That's considered decent for 35's with a TBI 350 and 700R4. You'd probably be high geared for a taller and much heavier 38.

I agree, I had 56's and 35's and liked the combo with a healthy 355, with 38's I would go deeper, maybe 5.13's. Remember even though the math works out (3.37's / 31's and 4.56 /38's) you need to take into account the weight difference and increased rolling resistance of a more aggressive tire.

The new rig is sweet , nice find !

 

[colbystephens]

Thanks for that info. I was sort of wondering if that would be the case. 5.13 sounds really low. Do you think that would hurt my 60 mph cruising speed mileage significantly?

4.88s would put me at 1812 rpm at 60 mph.
5.13s would put me at 2064.
4.56 puts it at about 1600.

Seems to me that 1800 w/ the 4.88s sounds like a sweet cruising rpm, 1600 seems low. But maybe there's not that much difference between 1800 and 2000 rpm. Thoughts?

Exhaust update.

Unfortunately, the previous owner just had his buddy do up a pretty shade-tree dual H-pipe exhaust. The thing prevents you from dropping the trans or transfer case without removing the whole exhaust. it's booger welded and whatnot too. Glass packs that sound a bit cheesy, in my opinion.

So I went to a few exhaust shops today and found one I really liked. Old guy, knows his stuff. He taught me that the current exhaust system is killing my power, and recommended I go back to a y-pipe set up. If i remember right, He's going to do a 2.5" to the cat, then bump it up to a 3" straight through muffler. Should be pretty sweet. It costs a bit more than Meineke putting in some crappy round cats, but it seems stupid to put any money into a crappy exhaust system. This is, after all, the "do it right the first time" build...

So that'll happen on Tuesday. Then I can get it smog checked and registered.

I'll try to get some pics of the underside of the truck uploaded today for those of you who want to see clean rockers and whatnot. I got the interior cleaned up, as the previous owner didn't have the chance to do it before I came over since it was the same day as his ad was posted. Much nicer now that it's been properly vacuumed, also helped with the cigarette smell. My dad had a blazer when i was a kid, and he smoked. This truck smells just like his, so it doesn't bother me, just brings back weird memories.

 

[colbystephens]

I have the Auto Meter Sport Comp trans temp gauge in my pickup. PN ATM 3357 from summit racing. its 2 1/16", and electric. After installing the electric gauges, I will NEVER go back to mechanical.

Has worked awesome for me.

For the cooler, the stacked plate design is far better than the tube and fin style, more expensive also.

And I'm jealous, that color combo is awesome, just a good looking clean K5

Thanks for that info. I now live about 4 miles from the Summit warehouse, so I'll have to look that up. Can you tell me about installation? I haven't worked with the auto transmissions much.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

I believe we established a while back that the TBI trucks had 3" before the cat and after. Later on went to 2.something before the cat.

 

[stockk5]

my truck is a 350,700, 208 with 4:56's and 39.5 pitbulls on the highway at 55 i am at about 1500rpm and 65-70 lil over 2grand.

 

[BlazerFarm]

Also early in my build plan is to get a CB installed. I have an antenna, coaxial wire, and a sweet extra speaker, but I still need a CB. Recommendations?

First, I love that truck. We need more pics.

On the CB I went with the full on trucker model, the Cobra 29 LTD Classic. It's worked great. When it's tuned to your antenna it's got great range. The only thing I wish I would have done different is I wish I would have got the WX model so that I could get NOAA Weather Radio on the CB. That's really nice to have.

Here's mine: http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-29LTD-40-Channel-CB-Radio/dp/B00006JPF3

Here's the WX model, a little more spendy but you get some other features: http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Nightwatch-29WXNWST-40-Channel-Radio/dp/B00005N5WX

Check around on price. They vary all over the place.

 

[colbystephens]

What kind of range is reasonable to expect from a decent cb?

 

[NorCal_Chris]

3-6 miles up to 10 in heavy areas

Ive gone out 25 or so miles with ideal conditions at night.

 

[ARAMP1]

Dude, I know you mentioned keeping this one a little more daily driver friendly, but I'm still looking forward to the mods!

 

[colbystephens]

Dude, I know you mentioned keeping this one a little more daily driver friendly, but I'm still looking forward to the mods!

Me too. $$$ and time though.

 

[KirsL]

Since the truck has 350 with a 700r4 I would go with at least 4:88 gears with a 38" tire. Running around 1800 at 60 should be pretty close to stock.

What are your plans for the engine? Keeping it stock or maybe a mild build up one day?

As for the trans cooler install. I always run mine with the radiator plumbed in, some guys don't. It helps get the trans up to operating temp quicker so it can shift correctly. I had a 91 f-250 diesel that when the trans was cold it didn't like to shift at all. Install is pretty straight forward. I'd get one with a fan if you fit it. It's more money but well worth when sitting in traffic in the summer.

 

[BUDDY]

I've got a worn out tbi 350 with a newly rebuilt 700r4, on 37 old style MT/R's, with 4.88's in the axles and it works GREAT!! I drove it from vegas out here to texas and got a corrected 14mpg. I couldn't believe it myself.

Just FYI.

Later,
Buddy

 

[79rustyk10]

Thanks for that info. I now live about 4 miles from the Summit warehouse, so I'll have to look that up. Can you tell me about installation? I haven't worked with the auto transmissions much.

Its pretty easy, what I did was just pull the plug for the pressure port out. its in the side of the case above the shift linkage on the 700's IIRC, then replace that plug with the sending unit for the trans temp gauge. Both are 1/8" NPT. I didnt use any sealer as it needs good contact to the case.

Others might disagree about putting the sending unit in the case, some recomend that it goes in the pan, Ive seen them placed in aux filter mounts.

I think somone on here has one sender in the case and another sender in an aux filter mount, with a toggle switch used to monitor both.

After that its just mounting and wiring the gauge.

 

[colbystephens]

Since the truck has 350 with a 700r4 I would go with at least 4:88 gears with a 38" tire. Running around 1800 at 60 should be pretty close to stock.

What are your plans for the engine? Keeping it stock or maybe a mild build up one day?

As for the trans cooler install. I always run mine with the radiator plumbed in, some guys don't. It helps get the trans up to operating temp quicker so it can shift correctly. I had a 91 f-250 diesel that when the trans was cold it didn't like to shift at all. Install is pretty straight forward. I'd get one with a fan if you fit it. It's more money but well worth when sitting in traffic in the summer.

I figured I'd plumb in the cooler in with the radiator. It seems to me that this would be the easiest route because it's easier to make up short jumper lines from radiator to trans cooler than to modify the tranny lines to hook up to the trans-cooler location. I was thinking I'd just install it infront of the radiator. Sound like a good idea?

Its pretty easy, what I did was just pull the plug for the pressure port out. its in the side of the case above the shift linkage on the 700's IIRC, then replace that plug with the sending unit for the trans temp gauge. Both are 1/8" NPT. I didnt use any sealer as it needs good contact to the case.

Others might disagree about putting the sending unit in the case, some recomend that it goes in the pan, Ive seen them placed in aux filter mounts.

I think somone on here has one sender in the case and another sender in an aux filter mount, with a toggle switch used to monitor both.

After that its just mounting and wiring the gauge.

Thanks!

What do you all think about installing a transmission filter? Seems like a good idea, but perhaps a bit costly and maybe unnecessary.

Here's some pics of the undersides of the rockers.

Looking toward the rear of the truck, under the rocker, below the driver's door.

Looking toward the front of the truck, under the rocker, below the driver's door.

This is looking forward from inside the rear wheel well.

This is looking back toward the rear driver's side of the truck from inside the rear wheel well. The frame would be to the left, the fender to the right in the image. The surface rust you see back there is inside the bumper.

 

[max 02]

Looks good under there!

I wish my 02 duramax looked that good.

Like your plans for it. Will you cut the sheet metal for the 38`s?

 

[Deuling]

Looks good under there!

I wish my 02 duramax looked that good.

Like your plans for it. Will you cut the sheet metal for the 38`s?

Oh pleeez dont