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'90 K5 - The Nevada Blazer [Post 1437: School me on alternators)

Sorry to disappoint, but I sure will. Should only need to cut the front fenders. Then I'll prime the cut edge and put the trim piece back over it.

You should just trade for mine lol. Id even throw in the new 408sbc to have sheet metal that nice lol:thumb:
 
:wink1: no insult, just like what I got. :D

I'm pretty good at trimming front fenders to look nice. The rears on my '73 looked pretty bad, but that's because there was rust above the wheel well that had to be cut out and the rounded cut pattern didn't take too nicely.
 
Im just messin with yah man. Just take it as a "im jealous of your truck" comment:thumb:
 
I took the steps off of the Blazer last night. Now each rocker has 4 holes in it. Two holes are in the pinch weld at the bottom, and those will be easy to spray with some white primer to protect the metal. However, the two remaining holes are drilled into the rocker and had screws into the open cavity of the rocker. What's the best way for me to deal with this? I can't weld them up right now because I no longer have shop space. I was thinking to shoot them with primer and then cover a screw with goop sealant and install the screw and forget about it. I just don't want crud getting into the rockers via those holes. What say you? What sort of sealant would you use? Maybe cover the screws with undercoating first? Rtv? .???
 
Why bother you are in NV, not like they are ever going to get wet or salt :dunno:

RTV or a rubber washer would work I would think
 
I like winter wheeling a lot. Probably get lots of moisture and brine in there from mtn roads. Besides, it does snow here in the winter. ;) just an extra level of protection for peace of mind,anyway. And its easy and cheap!
 
first off, you no rust western guys make me sick. quit rubbing it in.

i agree w/ everyone about the gears. 4.56s would put you closer to stock w/ 35s or 36s. you'll want 4.88s if you go up to 37s or 38s. my '89 turns 1950 rpm at 65 mph w/ 4.56s and 35s, right in the heart of the torque curve.


as far as the screw holes, why not just spray a little rubberized undercoat or bed liner behind the rockers to cover/ fill in the holes?
 
Little trick I did was take a small square of duct tape and then coat over some body molding holes that my lifted Tracker had. After the Herculiner was on you couldn't tell they were there.
 
i agree w/ everyone about the gears. 4.56s would put you closer to stock w/ 35s or 36s. you'll want 4.88s if you go up to 37s or 38s. my '89 turns 1950 rpm at 65 mph w/ 4.56s and 35s, right in the heart of the torque curve.

you make a good point about the torque curve. Peak torque is at about 2400 rpm. I suppose for mileage, I would be getter off at a slightly higher rpm to get it into the torque curve than a lower rpm where I'd be lugging the engine down. So what do you think, 4.88 or 5.13? 5.13 sound fun, but will that extra 200 rpm hurt my mileage significantly?
 
In front of the radiator is good spot for it.

As for running 5:13s instead of 4:88s I don't think you'll notice too much difference in mileage but power should be little better. I doubt you'll be spending too much time on the highway so they might be the better choice.
 
Colby, if your plan is to run anything larger than a 35" tire you definately should install 5.13's, I wish I had in mine and at some point when cash is available that is what I plan on doing.
 
I will be the only one to say this and everyone will probably roll their eyes, but, I know your kind of wheeling and where you live, you have lots of flat and high speed, and your wheeling is not the rockcrawling type but the outdoors type, with the 700 being your tranny, I vote for 4.56 with the 38" tires because it will put you in a better range with your average speed whcih should be above 65, unless you are one of those that drive really under the speed limit all the time.
In NV your typical speed around reno is 65 and goes up to 70 and 75 as you go further so what you want to shoot for is 70mph cruising speed.
And for lower speeds like in town, the tranny will always put you in the right range.
I am shooting for something like that on mine except I am going 4.10 with 35"
I am running 33" on 3.08 and it's not good for my 700, I never really reach my 4th potential unless I am at top speed, but with the 4.10 I should be in the right spot for fuel economy and good comfortable cruising speed of 70-75mph, since my burb will be for excursions involving out of state long trips.:waytogo:
 
Yeah, the speed limits on highways here are really fast, and the speed people actually drive is even faster! However, in a big truck I tend to go slow. I set my cruise between 55 and 60. I just don't feel comfortable going much faster in a large short wheelbase truck. The trail driving I'll do will be more rock crawling, slow trails and snow, so I do think the lower gears will actually work well for me. If I drove faster, I'd definitely see your point.
 
Claire and I went out in the desert on Friday, just a quick jaunt up a local hill on FS roads to the peak. I thought the truck felt a bit underpowered because of the 33" tires, presuming that the gears weren't good for that size tire. What I realized on this trip was that the TV cable must have been set up wrong because it wasn't downshifting when you floored the gas. I had presumed that I just couldn't feel many of the shifts because it's an auto, and I haven't driven an auto in ages... But, when getting on the freeway I manually downshifted into 2 and that sucker really kicked up to speed quick.

So, a local CK5er came over today and helped me re-set my TV cable properly. It ended up being a 2 man job because the button on my cable was sort of sticky. So I had to push on the D-button while he pushed the cable housing back into the sleeve. We manually rotated the throttle by hand and then double-checked the pull of the gas pedal to make sure there wasn't any left over slack.

Took the truck out on the road and it's a whole different animal now. :D Fluid on the tranny is bright red, so I'm hoping no real damage was done. Bowtie Overdrive's site says that an improperly set cable may not necessarily cause damage, so I'm hoping that's the case here. :yikes: But, it's better now.
 

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