I remember you showing me that pic a while back. Good lookin rig. I really think the white wheels you've got look better than these chrome things. Hopefully the black wheels I have for my 38's will look equally good as a white wheel would.
CK5
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'90 K5 - The Nevada Blazer [Post 1437: School me on alternators)
- Thread starter colbystephens
- Start date
I remember you showing me that pic a while back. Good lookin rig. I really think the white wheels you've got look better than these chrome things. Hopefully the black wheels I have for my 38's will look equally good as a white wheel would.
Well, it looks like I'm going to be hung up waiting for the EZ Inch blocks till next week. 
Apparently it accidentally got shipped to my old Oregon address, and USPS only does forwarding of packages for 90 days. 
Bummer.
Anyway, today I picked up some brake lines that I'm going to try out. I went with some hoses from NAPA, part UP-38622 and UP-38623. They're 25" long. The ones that I am replacing are 30" long, which I would've preferred, but these should work. I'm going to have to do some testing. They're not ideal, and there are better options out there, but these should still work out great.
I also got the wheel studs installed on my Dana 60 hubs. After searching around for a place to press them in, and feeling like the $40 to $90 quotes for such a task were simply outrageous, I decided to use the nuts to pull the studs through. This is not the ideal method, but so long as you don't over-torque the studs, you're OK. To do so, I looked up the torque rating for a '91 Dodge Dana 60. These have the 1/2" studs, as compared to the 5/8" studs on a Chevy (60 and 14BFF). As such, the torque is a little less at 105 lb-ft. The Chevy studs take 140 lb-ft. So, I set my torque wrench for 100 lb-ft and tightened the rotors up to the hubs. Now I can finish assembling the Dana 60. Probably do that tomorrow.
Apparently it accidentally got shipped to my old Oregon address, and USPS only does forwarding of packages for 90 days. Bummer.Anyway, today I picked up some brake lines that I'm going to try out. I went with some hoses from NAPA, part UP-38622 and UP-38623. They're 25" long. The ones that I am replacing are 30" long, which I would've preferred, but these should work. I'm going to have to do some testing. They're not ideal, and there are better options out there, but these should still work out great.
I also got the wheel studs installed on my Dana 60 hubs. After searching around for a place to press them in, and feeling like the $40 to $90 quotes for such a task were simply outrageous, I decided to use the nuts to pull the studs through. This is not the ideal method, but so long as you don't over-torque the studs, you're OK. To do so, I looked up the torque rating for a '91 Dodge Dana 60. These have the 1/2" studs, as compared to the 5/8" studs on a Chevy (60 and 14BFF). As such, the torque is a little less at 105 lb-ft. The Chevy studs take 140 lb-ft. So, I set my torque wrench for 100 lb-ft and tightened the rotors up to the hubs. Now I can finish assembling the Dana 60. Probably do that tomorrow.
Do you got a time limit on this?
I think your signature is a little premature... lol
Ktm15
Registered Member
Man,i havnt viewed in a minute! Hows everything? I gotta get caught up!!!
Kind of. Not really. It happens that I have one more week of vacation before back to the grind. Want to have it done before vacation's over.
Yup.
Today I got the Dana 60 hubs and calipers installed. Glad to have that taken care of. Unfortunately/Fortunately it looks like I'll be building a new tie rod for the truck. I was given one with the 60, but the threads on the rod ends seem to be too rusted to the collar such that I can't adjust it to work. Since getting the parts to build my drag link, I got real excited about building a super beefy tie rod, but didn't want the added cost right now. However, it looks like I'm going to do it. I'm going to go get a hold of some 1.5" .250 wall tube and a couple weld in bungs and build a bad-A tie rod now. Should be a bit more stout than the stockers! 
I've wanted to do this because the tie rod on my Dana 44 in the Green truck is awfully jacked up, and since there's more rocks here than in Oregon, I figure it's just good planning.
Apparently I'll be able to pick up the EZ Inch box that Kert shipped to me at the Post Office at 9 A.M. tomorrow.
Finally. So tomorrow I'll get the spring packs all put together and set up, and then Sunday I can start the swap. Maybe if the paint dries quickly enough on the EZ Inch blocks I can even start tomorrow. 
Should be a bit more stout than the stockers! I've wanted to do this because the tie rod on my Dana 44 in the Green truck is awfully jacked up, and since there's more rocks here than in Oregon, I figure it's just good planning.Apparently I'll be able to pick up the EZ Inch box that Kert shipped to me at the Post Office at 9 A.M. tomorrow.
Finally. So tomorrow I'll get the spring packs all put together and set up, and then Sunday I can start the swap. Maybe if the paint dries quickly enough on the EZ Inch blocks I can even start tomorrow.
I want to see the tie rod build I need one badly for my truck.
Sure, I'll post pics. As long has you have a welder you're pretty well set, and it'll be an easy task. However, I won't be bothering to install a steering stabilizer, so that makes the job particularly quick/easy. However, if you really want to run one, it wouldn't be too hard to drill an oversized hole and then sleeve it to keep water out of the DOM tube, and run your stabilizer that way.
That will be great thanks.
I don`t know if I will make one right away,but I would like to know how.
My truck is propably gonna stay as is for bit...might be buying a jeep.
I wouldn't drill into it... just use something like this.
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/1.5-Tube-Steering-Stabilizer-Bracket/4154/4156
So, I know you want to build a tie rod. But why not buy one already done from ORD? They're not that expensive and I think between buying threaded bungs and the tube and such, you'll be most of the way to buying one that's done.
Sometimes I weigh my options when I decide to buy or build something is all I'm saying. Maybe you've done that already.
Sometimes I weigh my options when I decide to buy or build something is all I'm saying. Maybe you've done that already.
I briefly considered it, but I can definitely make it for a bit cheaper than ORD, especially when factoring in the shipping. I can source weld in bungs, DOM, and the tie rods all locally, so it's quicker too. Plus, I think it'll be a bit fun.
Got started on the swap this afternoon. There's a huge windstorm here now, so that added some challenge. I got the rear axle in the '90 removed, except it's still under the truck as I've been struggling to disconnect the e-brake cables. My goal, though ambitious, is to have the truck sitting on the 1 tons tomorrow by the end of the day. Tuesday, build up the steering. Wednesday, deal with fluids - brake, axle, etc.
need pics of sig line.....
Need sig line to be real first... 
magik235
Still Alive
You are making outstanding progress on major improvements. Looks great.
That was my point
Give me a couple days....
But since I've been razzed about it 2 times now, is it better now??? 
Thanks.
YEah you gotta make the tie rod for me to see...shipping would kill me!
Crummy pic, but I only had my cell phone with me today. By the end of the day I had the front springs/axle/etc. out too. Had some hang ups along the way, particularly with all 4 of the front spring bushing bolts being crusted to the bolt sleeve, so I ended up having to cut them out.
that really really sucked.Anyway, tomorrow I'll get the front axle in there and then get all the U-bolts squared away, etc. The bolts for everything are just finger tight and need to be addressed. But I'm stoked. This truck is 1" bigger than my green truck was, and I can sure tell (I think!). Also, my green truck's roll cage was real heavy so the truck sat much lower.
Going to have to trim the rear of the rear fender for sure. Front clearance looks good, which I'm glad for, because I like the stock cut of the front of the rear fenders.
