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'90 K5 - The Nevada Blazer [Post 1437: School me on alternators)

You'll love having a second battery. I know i do.

Not sure what you paid for the switch, and what cable is going for, but my 12voltguy setup for about $120-130 came with the cables needed. A little more expensive than DIY, but more than worth it in the amount of wiring he saved me from doing.

Cool info about the speedo regulation. Know I'm had mine pegged past 85, but dont' think i could make use of a 100mph speedo ;)
 
andyblack said:
This may be random and I'm not trying to hijack, but I just found out the other day why some of these trucks have 85 mph speedos and some have 100 mph ones. It had nothing to do with the engine. Apparently some lady (whose interview I was reading) that was a bureaucrat during the Carter admininistration felt that having a 120 mph or higher speedo in motor vehicles encouraged people to go faster than they should, so she successfully lobbied to get a federal law passed that would mandate speedos to only go to 85. That was in 1978 and it lasted until like '84 or something, but the auto makers had plenty of the 85 mph speedos left so they kept using them until they were gone. Then they went back to the 100 and 120 mph speedos.

Hijack over.
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Interesting stuff. Thanks for sharing.

dhcomp said:
You'll love having a second battery. I know i do.

Not sure what you paid for the switch, and what cable is going for, but my 12voltguy setup for about $120-130 came with the cables needed. A little more expensive than DIY, but more than worth it in the amount of wiring he saved me from doing.

Cool info about the speedo regulation. Know I'm had mine pegged past 85, but dont' think i could make use of a 100mph speedo ;)
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm excited about the reliability factor. I ended up buying this one used from protechk5:

IMG_20130319_183603_838_zps1e919a08.jpg


Here's the specs on it:
Continuous Rating: 350 Amps
Intermittent Rating (5 min.): 600 Amps
Cranking Rating @ 10 sec: 2000 Amps
Cranking Rating @ 1 min: 1000 Amps
Terminal Stud Torque: 140 in-lb maximum
Cable Size (to meet requirements): 4/0 AWG
Cable Clearance: 1.1"

It's not going to be as "bling" of a set up, because the alternator won't charge both batteries unless I have the switch set to charge them. However, I figure I can just flip the switch every few drives to keep them both charged. So, since I already had a second battery, and I'm getting the hook up on a battery tray, I'll only have $30+cost of cables/lugs/solder into this thing - which isn't too bad. :)

Part of me wants to mount it in a hidden and accessible location so that I can switch it to "off" and have it function as a safety device, but I don't really want to use that much cable. So, it'll probably just go in the engine bay.
 
colbystephens said:
Thanks. :)

I think I prefer solid colors - for the '70s era rigs, I like the lime green, and for the '80-'90 rigs I like a gunmetal grey - or whatever color your truck is, is also really great. Part of my problem is that I have a degree in art, and am working on my masters degree in the same field, so I get nitpicky about stupid crap like where the two tone paint separates. :haha: I'm currently saving to get some nice PRP suspension seats for the front that will be grey and black. I am, over the long haul, going to convert the interior to a grey/black scheme, and then ultimately do some single color exterior - probably gun metal grey, a navy blue, or maybe even a greenish color like Kert's dually. But that's several years away.

One of the coolest things about living in Nevada is how accessible great 4wheeling trips are. If you ever make it down this way, I'd be more than happy to drive the Rubicon Trail with you, and if I end up going north, I'd love to see backcountry Canada!

The build of this truck is definitely slow, like you said. I made the mistake of getting over my head too quick on a previous truck, and it turned into a pile of wasted money. Then I look on CK5 at someone like "Larry" who has spent 20+ years, or something, slowly building his truck so that it is exactly what he wants, and is also able to wheel it along the way. That's the attitude I'm taking with this truck. Besides, it's damn capable as it currently is. There's always a laundry list of things I'd like to do with it, but.... :)
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this was my factory 85 two tone...Apple Red and Quicksilver

 
I like the 2 tones like that, where there's the white area on the lower area and the other color about 1/4 of the way up the body. For some reason, I think I read in the brochures that the paint job like that was a lower-level trim style, but I sure like it. But, maybe not: Yours looks like it has a Silverado emblem.
 
I think it says Custom Deluxe on it. So one step above a work truck I guess. Probably had good old manual windows and door locks. My kind of truck. :D
 
That's my preference, too. While I love my truck, there's too much electric convenience stuff to go wrong. Oh well. It is nice to be able to roll the passenger side window up/down without having to stop the truck.
 
Here's a picture of my driver's side battery tray fresh out of the sand blaster. Thanks, iceman!

I am done with schoolwork for this school year, and I'm grading my students' work today and tomorrow. So, next week I have no more commitments to school. I have a TON of work to do before next school year, but it should give me a chance to start doing some things on my Blazer again. So, I need to get this thing painted and installed, and wire up my second battery. I'll pull the other battery tray out and blast/paint it next fall. I won't have access to the sand blaster over the next several months because the sculpture studio at school is undergoing renovation.

IMG_20130509_093313_173.jpg
 
Most of the cool tools on campus are in sculpture. I suspect engineering outdoes us with things like CNC machines and such, but we have several kinds of welders, breaks, shears, a wood shop, torches, etc. Few people are working in metal right now, but when they do they often use cheap/free found/recycled stuff and it often needs sandblasting. This used to be a real nice sandblasting unit, but it's pretty beat up now. Hard to use, but damn is it nice by comparison to doing it all by hand.
 
Well, it seems like this is becoming the half-way build. :doah: I have too many irons in the fire. But, true to my intent to do-it-right the first time, I'm rearranging my priorities.

I still need to paint and mount my new battery tray, and get all of that wired in. This is still something I'm actively working on, just don't have enough time at the moment, as I have a couple trips planned.

I still need to do the York compressor. I have the compressor, but I need a serpentine pulley, and I need a bracket to mount it. Don't know when I'll get around to finishing this project.

But, the new news is that I've decided that the most important thing for me to do right now is hydro assist. :woot: I was over at owenst7's place and we were adjusting my steering when he noticed how much frame flex I was getting while turning my wheels w/ tires at 20 PSI on his concrete driveway. I do have a steering box brace, and my frame is in good shape, but I want to keep the frame in that condition, so I decided to take the force off the frame and go hydro assist.

I was saving my truck fund money for some nice suspension seats, but it won't make a difference if I have nice seats and a broken frame out on the Rubicon this summer. :doah:

I also ordered a new poly body mount kit and a 1" body lift from DIY4x. This will give my tires and sliders a bit more clearance. I've also noticed a lot of body flex, and so I think this will help make it all more solid. My truck has 203,000 miles on it (:yikes:), so those body mounts are probably pretty well worn out.

Here's my hydro assist parts, for anyone who might be looking for help in the future:
DIY4x's steering box end cap. It's the next item up on his lathe, so it'll probably be a couple weeks before I see it.
DIY4x's ram mounting tabs to weld to the axle tube and tie rod. (call to order, not on his website)
The ever popular Surplus Center Ram.
Three of these 3 foot 3/8" hoses. (one for a trail spare.)
Two of these 90* 3/8 swivel fittings for the steering box.
Two of these 90* swivel fittings that adapt my 3/8 hoses to my SAE 6 ram ports.

I'll also be adding a larger PS fluid reservoir on a piece of rad hose, and a cooler. To make it easy on myself, I'll probably just buy a small auxiliary auto transmission cooler. But, it's also possible that owenst7 will convince me to go snag something cheap at the junk yard. So I'll have about $250 into my hydro assist when it's all said and done. It's not the cheapest - certainly not the elusive under $100 method - but I'm excited about the system I've come up with (Much thanks to owenst7).

So, in late June I should be able to knock out this project once I get back from my travels and all the parts have arrived.
 
colbystephens said:
Well, it seems like this is becoming the half-way build. :doah: I have too many irons in the fire. But, true to my intent to do-it-right the first time, I'm rearranging my priorities.

I still need to paint and mount my new battery tray, and get all of that wired in. This is still something I'm actively working on, just don't have enough time at the moment, as I have a couple trips planned.

I still need to do the York compressor. I have the compressor, but I need a serpentine pulley, and I need a bracket to mount it. Don't know when I'll get around to finishing this project.

But, the new news is that I've decided that the most important thing for me to do right now is hydro assist. :woot: I was over at owenst7's place and we were adjusting my steering when he noticed how much frame flex I was getting while turning my wheels w/ tires at 20 PSI on his concrete driveway. I do have a steering box brace, and my frame is in good shape, but I want to keep the frame in that condition, so I decided to take the force off the frame and go hydro assist.

I was saving my truck fund money for some nice suspension seats, but it won't make a difference if I have nice seats and a broken frame out on the Rubicon this summer. :doah:

I also ordered a new poly body mount kit and a 1" body lift from DIY4x. This will give my tires and sliders a bit more clearance. I've also noticed a lot of body flex, and so I think this will help make it all more solid. My truck has 203,000 miles on it (:yikes:), so those body mounts are probably pretty well worn out.

Here's my hydro assist parts, for anyone who might be looking for help in the future:
DIY4x's steering box end cap. It's the next item up on his lathe, so it'll probably be a couple weeks before I see it.
DIY4x's ram mounting tabs to weld to the axle tube and tie rod. (call to order, not on his website)
The ever popular Surplus Center Ram.
Three of these 3 foot 3/8" hoses. (one for a trail spare.)
Two of these 90* 3/8 swivel fittings for the steering box.
Two of these 90* swivel fittings that adapt my 3/8 hoses to my SAE 6 ram ports.

I'll also be adding a larger PS fluid reservoir on a piece of rad hose, and a cooler. To make it easy on myself, I'll probably just buy a small auxiliary auto transmission cooler. But, it's also possible that owenst7 will convince me to go snag something cheap at the junk yard. So I'll have about $250 into my hydro assist when it's all said and done. It's not the cheapest - certainly not the elusive under $100 method - but I'm excited about the system I've come up with (Much thanks to owenst7).

So, in late June I should be able to knock out this project once I get back from my travels and all the parts have arrived.
Click to expand...
so do you plan on upping the stock pump to keep up the pressure?
if so, or if you hadn't thought about it, check out this link.
http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html

best write up I've found so on keeping the stock pump.
 
swettysblazer said:
Wow, i never realized you could do it for that cheap. Awesome
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People can do it cheaper, too. For instance, making my own ram-mount tabs would have saved me a couple bucks, but not worth it at all because of the labor, and the trouble of cutting thick steel. You could also save by modifying an existing steering box end cap. Etc. There's ways to cut the cost, but the convenience of the set up I'm doing is worth the few extra bucks, as far as I'm concerned.

Smokinthehippies said:
so do you plan on upping the stock pump to keep up the pressure?
if so, or if you hadn't thought about it, check out this link.
http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html

best write up I've found so on keeping the stock pump.
Click to expand...

I'll look through that. I hadn't planned to do anything to my stock pump because I read a post by 38377k5 in the "Hydro under 100 bucks" thread that advised against it. I'll look into it more now, though. I was thinking I'd just get a high pressure pump at sometime in the future.
 
Colby I think you will happy with your proposed setup, I'm running basically the exact same thing on my K30. Only differences being I made my mounts, one of which I built into Kerts diff cover, and different hoses and fittings (I make hoses for our equipment at our shop). I went the junkyard cooler route and ended up using 2 stock hydro boost tanks tied together as my reservoir. It works great and has had no issue pointing my 38's where ever I wanted and hopefully will do as well with my new 42's :D
 
I snagged the high flow valve out of a hydro boost power steering pump. It has a tad bigger bore than a non hydro boost steering pump. Pretty much the same exact set up you are planning and it works GREAT! I have a little less than $250 in my set up.
 
Thanks, guys. I'm really excited about it. It'll be the biggest performance mod I've done since installing my Detroit locker in the 14 bolt years ago.
 
I have a PSC system and it works great. Makes turning the swappers effortless and drives straight down the road with ease.
 
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