Yeah, I'm thinking that down the line I could get a module like that and plug it in to the system when I need AC and whatnot again. Is it hard on the fan motors to run them at varying voltages?
CK5
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'90 K5 - The Nevada Blazer [Post 1437: School me on alternators)
- Thread starter colbystephens
- Start date
I don't think so, it may be better for them, motor spins slower. As long as they dont die on the trail i will be ok 
I dropped by the Pick-N-Pull after work today and got a Windstar Fan. It cost more than I wanted to spend, at $60 (including the optional $10 1-year warranty). But the task was easy, and that made me quite happy. The wiring harness will arrive on Thursday, so I guess I'll be getting my truck on Thursday night. 
Not all that bad of a deal
Yeah, after I posted that I realized that I'm basically whining about buying the fan for $50 instead of the $40 that many of you seem to have paid for your fans. That's pretty negligible. And dumb.
First world problems.
First world problems.
Yeah, after I posted that I realized that I'm basically whining about buying the fan for $50 instead of the $40 that many of you seem to have paid for your fans. That's pretty negligible. And dumb.
First world problems.
P'n'P has raised their prices, I paid $50 for mine as well. In comparison to the money they want for a new aftermarket fan setup I think it's a steal.
Finally drove my truck home today. I still have numerous loose ends to tie up, but I'm encouraged to have it in my own driveway now instead of an hour south of where I live.
Couple issues I need to work out [Now solved, see post 1432]:
I installed my Windstar fans today. I used a 195*-on, 185*-off thermal switch in the passenger side head of the engine. They didn't kick on till after my gauge read over 210, and the temp spiked the first few times I accelerated. I drove home on the freeway, and the temp stuck just shy of 210 on my gauge - which is exactly where I want it. When I got off the highway and idled/low speed to the gas station and to the house, the temperature stayed consistent at right below the 210 mark. I'll have to see if I still see the temp bouncing around as I drive it more. Radiator, hoses, engine, thermostat, water pump are all new. I'm thinking about getting a mechanical sending unit and gauge to improve the accuracy of my temp measurements. Thoughts?
I need to do a reset on my TV cable. I didn't get it properly set, and I wasn't able to get the transmission to kick down to 2nd when I stomped on the fuel. I'm wondering if my throttle cable isn't correctly calibrated to my throttle linkage. I read that that is possible. I've never really felt like it was "right," but it has been better. When I originally got the truck, I had this issue, and then I reset it and it was good - but I felt it could be better. So: Is there a way to adjust the throttle cable to make sure it's actuating the full range of the linkage?
I need to compile a list of all the loose ends that need to be tied up. But during my last year of grad school, my truck got really neglected and needs some serious love. I've got my work cut out for me.
Couple issues I need to work out [Now solved, see post 1432]:
I installed my Windstar fans today. I used a 195*-on, 185*-off thermal switch in the passenger side head of the engine. They didn't kick on till after my gauge read over 210, and the temp spiked the first few times I accelerated. I drove home on the freeway, and the temp stuck just shy of 210 on my gauge - which is exactly where I want it. When I got off the highway and idled/low speed to the gas station and to the house, the temperature stayed consistent at right below the 210 mark. I'll have to see if I still see the temp bouncing around as I drive it more. Radiator, hoses, engine, thermostat, water pump are all new. I'm thinking about getting a mechanical sending unit and gauge to improve the accuracy of my temp measurements. Thoughts?
I need to do a reset on my TV cable. I didn't get it properly set, and I wasn't able to get the transmission to kick down to 2nd when I stomped on the fuel. I'm wondering if my throttle cable isn't correctly calibrated to my throttle linkage. I read that that is possible. I've never really felt like it was "right," but it has been better. When I originally got the truck, I had this issue, and then I reset it and it was good - but I felt it could be better. So: Is there a way to adjust the throttle cable to make sure it's actuating the full range of the linkage?
I need to compile a list of all the loose ends that need to be tied up. But during my last year of grad school, my truck got really neglected and needs some serious love. I've got my work cut out for me.
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Adjust the throttle cable with factory linkage? The only way I could think of is bend the pedal up. Another way is to put washers where the cable goes in the throttle rod.
I had to adjust mine the factory method. It literally was in one click of where it should be. Just push button reset cable then floor the throttle as far as it can go. Drive and see what it feels like and if it's shifting too late one click the opposite direction is all it needs. It is very very sensitive so be careful. FYI you will have to pull up on the tab that hold the line in position so pay attention or you will have to redo the first step because it's spring loaded.
You're saying 1 click back towards the transmission, or 1 click toward the front of the truck?
I had to go one click to the rear to loosen the adjustment. It was shifting late.
I got the TV cable figured out. Something is wrong with my cable housing. The D-shaped button is terribly difficult to push in. I had to pull it off of the bracket, use a small c-clamp, manually push the housing back, then reinstall and set. That didn't work correctly, as it didn't pull the housing forward almost at all (2 clicks, I think). Took it for a drive, and it was easily able to downshift, but was shifting late on the upshifts. I pulled the cable housing back off of the motor, manually set the housing a couple clicks further out, and now it shifts like a dream. Maybe someday I'll have to replace that TV cable, but for now it's set up and functioning perfectly.
And it's nice to feel the power of a brand new engine instead of my 205K mile slug...
As to the temperature, the fans kicked on when I would expect them to this morning, and the engine temp never moved over 210 on the gauge. I wonder if the temperature switch needed to cycle a couple of times to get loosened up or something. I'll see how it goes the next time we have a hot day, I guess.
And it's nice to feel the power of a brand new engine instead of my 205K mile slug...
As to the temperature, the fans kicked on when I would expect them to this morning, and the engine temp never moved over 210 on the gauge. I wonder if the temperature switch needed to cycle a couple of times to get loosened up or something. I'll see how it goes the next time we have a hot day, I guess.
Great! As long as it doesn't move under throttle.. I got two bad ones in a row from napa and autozone had the correct one of all things!
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Depending on where your temp sender is for your gauge, there can be a huge difference in temp readings.
But I would set the fan "on" temp somewhere above the thermostat temp. This allows the thermostat do do most of the work on regulating temperature and only turns the fans on when you need extra cooling the thermostat can't take care of. If you have a TBI, the thermostat should be 195. If you have a computer to read the temp the ecm is seeing, that's what I'd use to base any fan settings on. Then set the fan "off" temp at about 195. It doesn't do any good to set it lower since your thermostat will shut off the water flow at anything below about 195 anyway.
My fans are set to come on about 200 and go up to high speed at 205ish, but my gauge reads about 10 degrees higher than that because the gauge sender is in the head and the ecm sender in next to the thermostat.
But I would set the fan "on" temp somewhere above the thermostat temp. This allows the thermostat do do most of the work on regulating temperature and only turns the fans on when you need extra cooling the thermostat can't take care of. If you have a TBI, the thermostat should be 195. If you have a computer to read the temp the ecm is seeing, that's what I'd use to base any fan settings on. Then set the fan "off" temp at about 195. It doesn't do any good to set it lower since your thermostat will shut off the water flow at anything below about 195 anyway.
My fans are set to come on about 200 and go up to high speed at 205ish, but my gauge reads about 10 degrees higher than that because the gauge sender is in the head and the ecm sender in next to the thermostat.
My thermostat is 195*, and my fans kick on at that temp too. It was the switch that came with the kit. Not ideal, I know. It'd be an easy fix down the line if it's problematic, I suppose.
My fan start spinning at 195 does not hit full speed until 210 or so. The temp on the gauge is a bit different then what my computer reads but it is close enough to not worry about it.
I wired up my trailer light socket this morning and pulled a couple thousand pounds around Portland today. The truck did great! It's time now for me to go through the truck with a fine tooth comb and find all the various little details and odds and ends that need to be addressed. That's going to take a while, but I'm excited because this truck is quickly becoming far more reliable than the day I bought it.
Also, I was thinking about the snow-ball effect today. It goes something like this:
I wanted to drive the Rubicon and have limited/no body damage.
So I decided to run 4" of lift and 38" tires.
But then I need strong enough axles for those tires. So I got a D60 and a 14BFF.
But then I needed gears deep enough to spin those 38s, so I went with 5.13s and a Detroit locker.
But then 4" wasn't quite tall enough to keep the tires out of the fenders. So I installed a 1" body lift.
And since I was in there, I replaced all the body mounts.
But then my fan shroud wouldn't work. So I had to swap to an electric fan.
And now my alternator can barely keep up with the fan, truck, quad headlights, and HVAC system.
So now I need a better alternator. And I'm feeling lazy. So instead of searching, can someone just school me a bit on alternators?
Also, I was thinking about the snow-ball effect today. It goes something like this:
I wanted to drive the Rubicon and have limited/no body damage.
So I decided to run 4" of lift and 38" tires.
But then I need strong enough axles for those tires. So I got a D60 and a 14BFF.
But then I needed gears deep enough to spin those 38s, so I went with 5.13s and a Detroit locker.
But then 4" wasn't quite tall enough to keep the tires out of the fenders. So I installed a 1" body lift.
And since I was in there, I replaced all the body mounts.
But then my fan shroud wouldn't work. So I had to swap to an electric fan.
And now my alternator can barely keep up with the fan, truck, quad headlights, and HVAC system.
So now I need a better alternator. And I'm feeling lazy. So instead of searching, can someone just school me a bit on alternators?
85 chevy caprice cop car edition
for a V belt app
I have a serpentine system
