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91 Burb Battery Cables/Fuseable links

OK, this is not going to be much help. I'm running on too little sleep again, and I am not all that familiar with your model truck.

But, one thing stands out for me, and maybe if I show it to you, you can take it from there.
You said that the remote starter has its own positive feed. Obviously from the battery, but where does it tap off from? And what does it feed when it cranks the truck?

It would seem that your trouble is between those two points.

Actually, it sounds like your alarm might be causing the problem. Most of those will kill the ignition and quite often the starter when tripped. I am thinking that whatever kills those, probably a relay or two, is not working right.

There is a point I am trying to make, and I sure hope you see it, because I lost it somewhere.

I'm going to bed, hope you get it going. After a couple of hours, I will look at it again and see if I can post something more coherent.

J.

Thanks for the try.

The alarm is fed directly from the battery, to an auto circuit breaker on the firewall, then to the alarm box. The alarm feeds both the ign wire, acc wires, and start wire to start the truck. There is a starter kill relay, but even if that was messed up, the key would turn the ign on, and the power door locks, etc would still work.

ALL elec systems original to the truck are dead. They only work when the ign/acc wires are being fed by the alarm when the truck is running from a remote start.

So yes, you are correct in saying the problem is between the battery, and the truck fusebox. I'm trying to figure out exactly where.

Batt feeds to starter, and back of alt. Main starter post feeds a red wire (with a tested fuseable link), which feeds somewhere. I think to teh fuse box. The problem has to be downstream of the tested fuseable link, between it and the fusebox. Maybe ill crawl under the dash, and try and disconnect the fusebox as a whole. That, or jiggle wires under there. At least with the key left in teh ON position, i will hear the ign circuit come on with the seatbelt chime, etc.

I'll try and play with it more tmr.
 
did you check to see if it has power at the junction block over by the brake booster?
 
did you check to see if it has power at the junction block over by the brake booster?

What style junction block are you referring to? I was trying to find one to test, but was unsuccessful in locating it.
 
sorry Darren, forgot about this one..... not sure if the 91 has it or not, but most of the late 80's ones have a hard black plastic, 2 post junction block mounted to the firewall to the left of the brake booster... power in on one side, comes out the other...
 
There isn't one on the older models, the main wire comes directly to the fuse block. I forgot to take a look earlier today, but I will look at Krusty in the morning and tell you where mine ties in.
 
sorry Darren, forgot about this one..... not sure if the 91 has it or not, but most of the late 80's ones have a hard black plastic, 2 post junction block mounted to the firewall to the left of the brake booster... power in on one side, comes out the other...


Got it. Mine has what i think is a crate motor, so not sure what is factory. That junction block is there, and both sides have 12v power. Guess i get to open up split loom and start following wires.

At least the loom just breaks and falls away when i touch it:crazy:
So i guess i'll be relooming a bunch of stuff too.

I'll check into it more tmr, and post back. Thanks guys!
 
Ok, so removed wires going down to starter, and started to try and remove the main harness from the rear of the engine. This was difficult, but doable, until i ran into the ECM ground to the back of the block.

Reloomed what i could. When taking apart the distribution block, i found the ring terminal crimp on the main 12v wire coming from the starter was very loose. Redid that ring terminal, and the one going to the fuse box. Of course the truck started fine when i started this troubleshooting, so i guess only time will tell.

Hopefully that was my faulty connection. But damn, 20yr old wiring sucks. I need a motor swap so i can redo the wiring. I feel for you guys with all the older trucks!
 
sounds good...


thats one of the main reasons i went to my 1 wire starter, connections have a rough enough life down there at the starter, might as well keep it at a minimum....
 
sounds good...


thats one of the main reasons i went to my 1 wire starter, connections have a rough enough life down there at the starter, might as well keep it at a minimum....

Agreed. But the connection that was suspect was the other end of that wire, at the distribution block. The starter end was fine.

if i do a motor swap though, definitely going remote stater solenoid, and feeding the fusebox from the battery directly, instead of via the starter.
 
I know, it was just a comment in general... the other one I ditched asap was the fusable links....
 
I know, it was just a comment in general... the other one I ditched asap was the fusable links....


Yah, i love your breaker setup. I'd be all over that if i had a cheap source.

But $$$ wise, it makes sense for me to stick with what the truck has. May not be perfect, but has worked for years.
 
absolutely.... major rework at some point, then ya think about it...
 
Truck seems to be fine now, but only time will tell. What is crazy is how much faster my windows are, etc. Guess that was a really bad connection
 
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