And that scenario makes the frame swap even more logical. Ironic thing is most people, like me, do the 2wd to 4wd crews because they are the most economical. So you really scored having that frame available.
CK5
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'91 Crew cab, 2wd to 4wd - Dual Duty Family Truckster - saggy door
- Thread starter stan1688
- Start date
Another worthy update...
I've been scouring Craigslist and other for sale sections for a motor. I had seen a couple here and there, but none that I would have felt terribly comfortable dropping in.
About a week or two ago, however, I did find a 3/4 burb that a guy was selling. He had started a body swap, but lost interest and never got it completely finished. It also came with a slew of other parts, as well. Long story short, I went and picked up the first load yesterday.
Here's some pics of the somewhat complete suburban:
It's on a 3/4 ton 10 bolt and a 14 bolt semi-float. It's supposed to have a crate motor in it. Comes with serp belt system, too. We fired it off yesterday real quick. Sounded pretty good. Also looks like it has a lift on it.
It also came with 2 8 lug wheels and tires, extra hood, several driveshafts, several shocks, steering wheel, a 14 bolt ff axle with an empty diff, a tbi 350 with a hole in the block, some lift springs, and some other random stuff.
It comes with a lot more. I'll update at a later date.
I've been scouring Craigslist and other for sale sections for a motor. I had seen a couple here and there, but none that I would have felt terribly comfortable dropping in.
About a week or two ago, however, I did find a 3/4 burb that a guy was selling. He had started a body swap, but lost interest and never got it completely finished. It also came with a slew of other parts, as well. Long story short, I went and picked up the first load yesterday.
Here's some pics of the somewhat complete suburban:
It's on a 3/4 ton 10 bolt and a 14 bolt semi-float. It's supposed to have a crate motor in it. Comes with serp belt system, too. We fired it off yesterday real quick. Sounded pretty good. Also looks like it has a lift on it.
It also came with 2 8 lug wheels and tires, extra hood, several driveshafts, several shocks, steering wheel, a 14 bolt ff axle with an empty diff, a tbi 350 with a hole in the block, some lift springs, and some other random stuff.
It comes with a lot more. I'll update at a later date.
Also, used the crew cab to pull the trailer. Was doing fine when I stopped for gas, but when I left, it wouldn't shift out of 2nd. After doing some research today, sounds like and electrical issue with the 4l80e. Haven't had a chance to do any investigation, though.
As I mentioned, it sounded like an electrical issue with the trans. After more research, I decided to start investigating. Started with the simplest things first. Checked all the connections and the fuse.
All but one of the connections looked good. The one that didn't look good just looked dirty. Figured I would clean it out with a pick. Crawled out from under the truck and checked the fuse while I was up and it was fine, other than being a 30A fuse when it's supposed to be a 10A.
Got back under and cleaned the dirty plug. I thought I'd test it after that and IT SHIFTED THROUGH ALL GEARS!!! I guess that one dirty connection was the problem? Praise God that it was an easy fix.
Now on to the parts burb...
As I mentioned, I just stumbled across it and couldn't pass it up. This will change the plans just a little on the build. I'm probably just going to use the frame from it since it would mean not cutting the floor, like I would have had to do on the other frame.
It has lift springs on it, but not sure of the height, maybe 4". Plan to add a 1" body lift and 1" zero rates. Looks like it has 56" rear springs, so I'm going to flip them around to stretch the wheelbase.
I'm also probably going to steal the doors off of it since they're in better shape than my current ones.
A question for the Brotherhood:
Would it be worth it to use the spare frame to box the rear of the burb frame?
One of the reasons I got a 1-ton was for the beefier frame. Obviously the burb frame isn't quite a strong.
The reason for just the rear, is that I plan on welding supports for the sliders to the frame and having an engine cage up front. I do plan to have some sort of partial cage/roll bar looking thing on the back, though.
I'm debating as to whether it's really worth it or not as this isn't going to be a full fledged hardcore wheeler. Sure, it will see some hard stuff on occasion, but in all honesty, I'd be happy if I went wheeling 5 to 6 times a year.
Lastly - There has been another development for this. I have something in the works for the drivetrain... *coughbehemothstrongboxcough*
For now, that's all the info I'll give.
All but one of the connections looked good. The one that didn't look good just looked dirty. Figured I would clean it out with a pick. Crawled out from under the truck and checked the fuse while I was up and it was fine, other than being a 30A fuse when it's supposed to be a 10A.
Got back under and cleaned the dirty plug. I thought I'd test it after that and IT SHIFTED THROUGH ALL GEARS!!! I guess that one dirty connection was the problem? Praise God that it was an easy fix.
Now on to the parts burb...
As I mentioned, I just stumbled across it and couldn't pass it up. This will change the plans just a little on the build. I'm probably just going to use the frame from it since it would mean not cutting the floor, like I would have had to do on the other frame.
It has lift springs on it, but not sure of the height, maybe 4". Plan to add a 1" body lift and 1" zero rates. Looks like it has 56" rear springs, so I'm going to flip them around to stretch the wheelbase.
I'm also probably going to steal the doors off of it since they're in better shape than my current ones.
A question for the Brotherhood:
Would it be worth it to use the spare frame to box the rear of the burb frame?
One of the reasons I got a 1-ton was for the beefier frame. Obviously the burb frame isn't quite a strong.
The reason for just the rear, is that I plan on welding supports for the sliders to the frame and having an engine cage up front. I do plan to have some sort of partial cage/roll bar looking thing on the back, though.
I'm debating as to whether it's really worth it or not as this isn't going to be a full fledged hardcore wheeler. Sure, it will see some hard stuff on occasion, but in all honesty, I'd be happy if I went wheeling 5 to 6 times a year.
Lastly - There has been another development for this. I have something in the works for the drivetrain... *coughbehemothstrongboxcough*
For now, that's all the info I'll give.
I really have no answers for you, but that is a great find in my opinion sir!
So the trans has been acting up again. After more research, I decided it was the shift solenoid B. Yesterday after work I decided to tackle the messy job of replacing both solenoids (came as a package deal).
Long story short, the torqs bolt holding the shift solenoid A was rounded out, so after fighting it for an hour, only solenoid B was replaced. Topped off the fluid and took it for a test drive. Still wouldn't shift out of 2nd.
Oh, and I'm leaking brake fluid from somewhere. Have to put the pedal to the floor to stop and just the back brakes are working.
My next plan of attack is to check the grounds and the throttle position sensor.
Long story short, the torqs bolt holding the shift solenoid A was rounded out, so after fighting it for an hour, only solenoid B was replaced. Topped off the fluid and took it for a test drive. Still wouldn't shift out of 2nd.
Oh, and I'm leaking brake fluid from somewhere. Have to put the pedal to the floor to stop and just the back brakes are working.
My next plan of attack is to check the grounds and the throttle position sensor.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Will it drop back into first from second? I have read that the speed sensors can pick up metal shavings on them since they're magnetic. And that will throw things off. I would pull them out, clean them, and stick them back in and try that.
Yea, it will drop to 1st. I've taken all the connections apart and cleaned them twice now. Both times it fixed it for a while, but it eventually started going into limp mode again. I've also read that it could be a bad connection at the ignition. Needless to say, I have several things to check.
Tried changing the shift solenoid B with no change. Tried checking a few other things, too, but still no better. Veeeeeeery frustrated...
I started a thread on it:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3426880#post3426880
I'm hoping to get this figured out soon as I just found out that I'm not going to have as much free time this summer as I had planned.
I started a thread on it:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3426880#post3426880
I'm hoping to get this figured out soon as I just found out that I'm not going to have as much free time this summer as I had planned.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I meant the tips of the speed sensors. There are two speed sensors in the side of the Trans. I would pull them both out and clean the tips and see if that does any good.
Bit of an update:
After unplugging the wiring harness at the ECM, the truck has been running fine...
A couple weeks ago I swapped the drivers door from the crew cab with the one from the parts burb. The original crew cab door shut fairly well, but did rub a little on the striker, so I'm guessing it was sagging a little.
I put the burb door on, and it's sagging big time. It's rubbing hard on the striker. Yesterday, I loosened the bolts that hold the hinge to the door and tried adjusting it a little more. It got a little better, but still sags.
Could it just be the pin bushings are worn?
After unplugging the wiring harness at the ECM, the truck has been running fine...
A couple weeks ago I swapped the drivers door from the crew cab with the one from the parts burb. The original crew cab door shut fairly well, but did rub a little on the striker, so I'm guessing it was sagging a little.
I put the burb door on, and it's sagging big time. It's rubbing hard on the striker. Yesterday, I loosened the bolts that hold the hinge to the door and tried adjusting it a little more. It got a little better, but still sags.
Could it just be the pin bushings are worn?
And when you do that, also pay attention to the front of the door where the outer skin is spot welded to the inner structure. (above the upper hinge, inside the door jamb) I have found several doors that have broken the spot welds there. I assume from people pulling down too much on aging sheetmetal. If that is loose, it lets the door move up and down quite a bit as well.
The bushings are brass and do wear. The pins also get out of round and then wear into the brass and then, yeah, your door will never turn properly.
Look at Dorman #38400 (set of parts for one hinge) or #703-264 (enough for two hinges, i.e. one door.) For four doors the cost can add up, might wanna buy online or something, but at least do one door and see how bad the existing ones are.
Also, though it should be obvious, do one hinge at a time, and support the door with something. I used an engine stand with a custom welded (i.e. hack job) brace
but with one hinge on the door, you could do most anything to keep it from over-torquing the other hinge.
-- A
Finally have some progress to report. Nothing terribly exciting, though.
After battling for several days by myself, I got some help and a tractor with a front loader and finally got the burb body off of the frame. What a pain...
Then I got the 400/208 unbolted from the engine and bolted up my 4wd 4l80e/241.
Unfortunately, that's all I've been able to get done so far. My goal is to have the cab swap finished by the end of the summer. Time is running out fast.
I need to get the burb body stripped so I can take it to the scrapper. Only going to schedule 1 day for that cause I need to get the crew's cab prepped for the swap.
After battling for several days by myself, I got some help and a tractor with a front loader and finally got the burb body off of the frame. What a pain...
Then I got the 400/208 unbolted from the engine and bolted up my 4wd 4l80e/241.
Unfortunately, that's all I've been able to get done so far. My goal is to have the cab swap finished by the end of the summer. Time is running out fast.
I need to get the burb body stripped so I can take it to the scrapper. Only going to schedule 1 day for that cause I need to get the crew's cab prepped for the swap.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Dont sell yourself short! THats big progress!
mckustomfab
1/2 ton status
Sweet progress! Cab swaps are a pain but having it 4wd will make it all worth it!
So did i miss where you said you are going to run the Suburban frame now? I think that will be my next build, if I ever finish the first one!
This is going to be awesome, cant wait for pic!
So did i miss where you said you are going to run the Suburban frame now? I think that will be my next build, if I ever finish the first one!
This is going to be awesome, cant wait for pic!
Yea, I'm going to run the burb frame now. It doesn't require cutting up the floor of the cab.
Thanks for the encouragement!
Thanks for the encouragement!
This past Saturday I devoted to stripping the parts burb. Got a lot more done than I thought I was going to. I still may pull out the rest of the trim and rob some sheet metal off of it then it's off the the scrapper.
Everyone loves pictures...
Also, finally had help to check the saggy door. The only movement I can see is coming from where the door skin is wrapped around the rest of the door, up by the top hinge, and it barely moves. Doesn't seem like enough to make it sag as much as it is.
Everyone loves pictures...
Also, finally had help to check the saggy door. The only movement I can see is coming from where the door skin is wrapped around the rest of the door, up by the top hinge, and it barely moves. Doesn't seem like enough to make it sag as much as it is.
Solid rockers to the scrapper? Makes me sad.
Martin
Martin
