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'91 Crew cab, 2wd to 4wd - Dual Duty Family Truckster - saggy door
- Thread starter stan1688
- Start date
OOOHH! OOOHH! OOOHH! ( think Horshack here )
They were in those trucks and also '89-'91 K5's and suburbans. Mine has it!!!
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Correct. Tho I do believe they carried over until 94.
You do not need the lock plate tool to merely swap steering wheels.
To swap them, you pop the horn button off the wheel.
Disconnect the horn button wire from the piece you just removed.
Push down on the plastic piece retaining the wire and turn it just a little bit, and it will pop out, it is spring loaded.
Remove the little snap ring from the end of the steering column. You can throw it away, or take the time to put it back on after you install the other wheel. It really doesn't matter.
Take a 7/8" (I believe, maybe 15/16" or 1"?) deep well socket, and remove the nut retaining your steering wheel.
Borrow/rent/buy/make a tool to pull the steering wheel off, or have someone wack the steering column with a hammer while you pull up hard on the steering wheel.
Hang old steering wheel on a nail in your garage.
Slide the new steering wheel back onto the splines of the steering column.
Tighten up nut.
Stick horn wire back in place.
Put silly snap ring back on end of column if you so desire.
Hook wire to horn button.
Snap horn button into place.
That being said, you probably have the wheel with the little metal plate for the horn wiring, which you will have to take three screws out and remove that plate. No big deal, pretty self explanatory.
Did you get the wire wire/plastic collar/spring for the horn with the new steering wheel?
Martin
They were used in 1988-1993 C/K pickups.
They were used in higher trim model 1989-1991 R/V pickups, Blazers, Jimmys, and Suburbans.
They were also used in S10/S15's.
Martin
I went back and looked, I am surprised your truck doesn't have that steering wheel already.
It doesn't have the lower body trim, but I am not sure they put that on the V30's? It does however have the higher trim dual headlights/grille, a conversion front seat, full interior. It looks like a Silverado badge on the dash. What trim is it?
Martin
It doesn't have the lower body trim, but I am not sure they put that on the V30's? It does however have the higher trim dual headlights/grille, a conversion front seat, full interior. It looks like a Silverado badge on the dash. What trim is it?
Martin
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Oh yea... Duh. You wouldn't need the locking plate compressor to swap the wheel. Just the puller.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
This is the type of puller setup you will need. Also, there are a couple youtube videos of it.
Thanks, Martin.
It does have the wire for the horn.
I was surprised it didn't have it either, as my '91 Blazer had one. To be honest, I'm not sure what trim it is. I'll see if I can find out.
This is the type of puller setup you will need. Also, there are a couple youtube videos of it.
Thank ya, sir.
A few things have happened since my last update.
I pulled the flatbed off. Having a tractor with a front loader made pretty easy work of it.
Bad pic of it with no bed:
Some things I noticed about the truck:
There's a gooseneck plate welded to the frame:
It looks like the rear axle is front a junk yard. I noticed the ubolts looked kind of new. I noticed after the bed was off that it looks like the ebrake had been torched off:
That makes sense, since the speedo was reading fast, like it came with deeper gears.
The bed loaded up:
The next day I took the flatbed and traded it for a regular bed, a set of 4 doors, some front fenders and some 14 bolt srw hubs. They weren't as nice as I had hoped, but it was a straight across trade so no money out of my pocket, besides fuel. This past weekend I got the bed installed despite there being a layer of ice on the ground, which is why I didn't get any pics.
Took these today. Still rocking the duals:
Not a dual tank bed and the known working tank is on the side without a fuel door? No problem. Just cut to access it. It was hanging out, because it had been extended to mount on the flatbed, but got it shortened down over my lunch break today.
Not much of an update, but an update none the least.
I pulled the flatbed off. Having a tractor with a front loader made pretty easy work of it.
Bad pic of it with no bed:
Some things I noticed about the truck:
There's a gooseneck plate welded to the frame:
It looks like the rear axle is front a junk yard. I noticed the ubolts looked kind of new. I noticed after the bed was off that it looks like the ebrake had been torched off:
That makes sense, since the speedo was reading fast, like it came with deeper gears.
The bed loaded up:
The next day I took the flatbed and traded it for a regular bed, a set of 4 doors, some front fenders and some 14 bolt srw hubs. They weren't as nice as I had hoped, but it was a straight across trade so no money out of my pocket, besides fuel. This past weekend I got the bed installed despite there being a layer of ice on the ground, which is why I didn't get any pics.
Took these today. Still rocking the duals:
Not a dual tank bed and the known working tank is on the side without a fuel door? No problem. Just cut to access it. It was hanging out, because it had been extended to mount on the flatbed, but got it shortened down over my lunch break today.
Not much of an update, but an update none the least.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Neato. When do you think you will have the srw setup on?
I'm sure it will be a while. More than likely I'll just pull the outer wheels and run it that way in the mean time.
Going to install a fuel door?
Martin
Martin
I'm not sure. More than likely, I'll run it as is. I eventually plan on putting the tank either in the bed or between the frame rails.
Have a little bit of an update. Nothing huge, but worth mentioning.
A while back I pulled the outer wheels off the back.
Also started daily driving it, finally. The power steering started whining one day. Looks like I have a leak somewhere. Haven't looked that hard but not sure where it's leaking from.
Last week, I noticed some oil under the front of the truck. Drove it home and noticed it was spraying out from somewhere underneath. After some looking, found one of the lines going to the oil cooler split.
Haven't had a chance to fix it yet, so I'm back in my father-in-law's heep...
I pulled the grill off while looking for the leak and accessing how to fix it. I noticed some sort of auxiliary fan on a transmission cooler.
I know it's a trans cooler cause they bypassed the cooler in the radiator.
I'm not sure if I'll keep it that way or run it through both. I ran it through both on my blazer and it stayed cool. Time will tell.
On a positive note, I've been collecting parts.
First up: a 4wd 4l80e with 50K on it with a passenger drop 241. Got it from warrpath4x4 on here.
I was able to work a deal with someone on some parts and steal. I decided to swap the frame of the truck in the 4wd conversion as opposed to swapping all the parts to this frame.
I was able to get this frame, some 2x8 and 2x2 tubing for less than the cost of all the parts I would have had to get for the conversion. It's only a standard cab frame, so it may take a little more work, but from the research I've done, not a whole lot more.
Going to use the 2x8 for sliders and the 2x2 for crossmembers and such.
The frame came with a hydro clutch sm465. Anyone interested *coughMartincough*? Also has a round pattern 205 I'd let go of, too.
I also bough a set of 1-tons. I had planned on converting the dana 70 to run stock h1s, but couldn't pass up this deal.
I'm hoping to get everything swapped over sometime this summer. In the meantime, I'll keep collecting parts.
Thanks for looking.
A while back I pulled the outer wheels off the back.
Also started daily driving it, finally. The power steering started whining one day. Looks like I have a leak somewhere. Haven't looked that hard but not sure where it's leaking from.
Last week, I noticed some oil under the front of the truck. Drove it home and noticed it was spraying out from somewhere underneath. After some looking, found one of the lines going to the oil cooler split.
Haven't had a chance to fix it yet, so I'm back in my father-in-law's heep...
I pulled the grill off while looking for the leak and accessing how to fix it. I noticed some sort of auxiliary fan on a transmission cooler.
I know it's a trans cooler cause they bypassed the cooler in the radiator.
I'm not sure if I'll keep it that way or run it through both. I ran it through both on my blazer and it stayed cool. Time will tell.
On a positive note, I've been collecting parts.
First up: a 4wd 4l80e with 50K on it with a passenger drop 241. Got it from warrpath4x4 on here.
I was able to work a deal with someone on some parts and steal. I decided to swap the frame of the truck in the 4wd conversion as opposed to swapping all the parts to this frame.
I was able to get this frame, some 2x8 and 2x2 tubing for less than the cost of all the parts I would have had to get for the conversion. It's only a standard cab frame, so it may take a little more work, but from the research I've done, not a whole lot more.
Going to use the 2x8 for sliders and the 2x2 for crossmembers and such.
The frame came with a hydro clutch sm465. Anyone interested *coughMartincough*? Also has a round pattern 205 I'd let go of, too.
I also bough a set of 1-tons. I had planned on converting the dana 70 to run stock h1s, but couldn't pass up this deal.
I'm hoping to get everything swapped over sometime this summer. In the meantime, I'll keep collecting parts.
Thanks for looking.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Good job on the parts collection. I cant help but think you would be better off swapping parts onto the crew cab frame. But either way will work.
I'm sure it will be more work swapping frames, but after reviewing Mrk5's thread, I don't think it will be all that much more. I won't have to fight the difference of the front of the frame, either. Also, this frame will put my wheelbase right where I want it. We'll see how it goes.
That's an interesting thought. I started thinking at first you would have the extra work of moving the motor and trans. Then I remembered I had to swap the transmission anyways. Didn't quite do as much as a full motor swap but I still had to completely pull the engine mounts and crossmember. Plus I ultimately swapped radiator and hoses so I got pretty close to a motor swap.
I think you are right, it may not be that much more work to just move everything to a different frame. Especially if you were going to be putting in body mounts or doing a motor swap anyway.
I think you are right, it may not be that much more work to just move everything to a different frame. Especially if you were going to be putting in body mounts or doing a motor swap anyway.
Thanks, Scott. That's reassuring that my though process wasn't out in left field.
Ideally, I would like to have a different motor, too, before I swap the cab over. That would mean I could already have the drivetrain on the new frame before I swapped the body over.
Ideally, I would like to have a different motor, too, before I swap the cab over. That would mean I could already have the drivetrain on the new frame before I swapped the body over.
