CK5
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91 K5 -Procrastination Build - bikini top!

Well your duration of 226 @ .050 is not too bad all, more mild than I expected, and I'm a dumb @$$ for not looking to see that you have a manual trans. I see why your truck cackles so much though, that is a tight lobe seperation at 108, especially for 226 duration. I hope everything works out for you and the motor is fine, but it sounds like you got the itch to build your own either way! :thumb:

One other thing, you said you had loose rockers, they don't keep getting loose do they, as in the new cam is going flat? I sure hope not.

No they don't seem to be continuing to loosen :knocks on wood: they were all still a little loose and the 2nd adjustment seems to have fixed it. Only time will tell.

Honestly, I do have the itch. I tried to save money with this motor and I'm paying the price now. I doubt I'll ever really trust it. It will take some time but I'm going to suck it up and build another. I'd really like to go with a hyd roller cam but man that dominos into a lot of money. :eek1:
 
Not much of an update on the truck but I do want to share my latest Diy4x product....


Ladies & gentlemen, I bring you 1480 driveshaft parts!

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The t-case flange is 32 spline for a 205 and the driveshaft side is (of course) the 1480 yoke portion of a D60 stub axle. The 2 halves are held together by (4) 1/2" bolts for clamping forces and 4 countersunk to use for alignment purposes.

I really should have put something next to it for perspective, this assembly is so beefy it's crazy!

A HUGE THANKS TO KERT!! for making yet another FINE product! :bow:
 
Kert builds some Kool stuff for sure....overkill engineering, I love it.
Good stuff man!
 
Not much of an update on the truck but I do want to share my latest Diy4x product....


Ladies & gentlemen, I bring you 1480 driveshaft parts!

DSC00034.jpg


DSC00035.jpg


DSC00037.jpg


The t-case flange is 32 spline for a 205 and the driveshaft side is (of course) the 1480 yoke portion of a D60 stub axle. The 2 halves are held together by (4) 1/2" bolts for clamping forces and 4 countersunk to use for alignment purposes.

I really should have put something next to it for perspective, this assembly is so beefy it's crazy!

A HUGE THANKS TO KERT!! for making yet another FINE product! :bow:

Is that available from DIY4X for purchase?
 
Is that available from DIY4X for purchase?

I would say "yes/probably", Kert said I could post it all over for folks to see it was available but I imagine it's greatly dependent on yoke availability. I was lucky because I had a couple of broken stubs for Kert to work with.
 
O... m... g... is that 2nd link a plug & play 1480 yoke for a 60?!? :eek: I didn't know this existed.
 
I really don't have much to update with, we've been super busy lately and I haven't touched the truck in close to 2 months. One thing I did do was find a set of Weld wheels like I wanted in Wash. state. After some polishing, I've got to get some SRW hubs for the D60 and save up for some Inner Air Lock beadlock inserts and they'll go on.

A HUGE THANKS to 86454K30, he was local to the seller and was kind enough to pick them up and ship them when the seller wouldn't.

Old school yo :D

weld wheel.JPG
 
Thanks! They are a design I fell in love with when I first saw them back in the 90's at an Indy Jamboree. I had a set on my old crew cab and have regretted selling them with the truck. They do need some lovin but I think they'll clean up really nice. :woot:
 
They will clean up just fine. i had let my weld wheels get real bad but they cleaned up. Took about 14 hours to of sanding polishing.
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Here are pics of my firewall and glove box.

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Nice job mounting the parts. I would like to make a quick recommendation though. You're going to want to mount that coil straight up and down especially when using the MSD box.

Reason: The Blaster canister style coils are oil filled for cooling. When you lay the coil down sideways you create an air bubble in the oil exposing the coil windings. When these coil windings heat up they will break down and cause the coil to fail.

You may hear many people saying they've done it that way with no issues but I'd hate to see a coil fail on you in the middle of nowhere on a trail.

If you are dead set on using a round canister style coil like that use MSD part number 8222. This coil is epoxy filled and not oil filled. If you want the best coil; bang for your buck to mount in that same spot look into the Blaster SS coil part number 8207.

This coil is more powerful; more efficient and can be mounted anywhere in any position... That last part sounds a little dirty. Keep with me boys we're still talkin coils!

If you have any questions let me know.

-Phil
MSD Ignition
 
You are the man Phil, THANKS!! :bow:

I'll get this current coil mounted correctly and grab an 8207 1st chance. :thumb:
 
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