Cool! You should elaborate on this driveshaft some more, or got any links? 
CK5
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91 K5 -Procrastination Build - bikini top!
- Thread starter nvrenuf
- Start date
So far this is my best find but I'll search more tonight on a real computer.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173585&highlight=Super+duty+driveshaft
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173585&highlight=Super+duty+driveshaft
Hmmmm wonder if itd do the trick for my front shaft. I'll stay tuned. Rig looks awesome dude
Hmmmm wonder if itd do the trick for my front shaft. I'll stay tuned. Rig looks awesome dude
I have a 01 superduty
Deuling maybe we can pull my d shaft out of the Fred and try putting it on your blazer just to see
BTW your truck looks sweet. Bet it feels good to drive it again
I have a 01 superduty
BTW your truck looks sweet. Bet it feels good to drive it again
The slip length is the same
I was hoping it would be longer, I can guarantee ill need more than the stock 3-4" slip yoke
The slip length is the same
How so?
Martin
Well, as usual, I haven't updated this thread in a long time but I have been doing stuff.
First, I bought a used but really nice H.A.D. 42° CV driveshaft with a 38° 1410 lower end.
Pay no attention to the incorrect clip and missing zerk fitting, these have been replaced. It looks like the rear joint was replaced right before I bought the shaft.
First, I bought a used but really nice H.A.D. 42° CV driveshaft with a 38° 1410 lower end.
Pay no attention to the incorrect clip and missing zerk fitting, these have been replaced. It looks like the rear joint was replaced right before I bought the shaft.
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I haven't installed the driveshaft yet because I've got the front axle out of the truck to do a Jantz Engineering "Jana 76" upgrade. This upgrade installs D70 gears and carrier into the D60 for a 33% increase in strength.
At this point, the gears are not set up. Since this install requires a TON of grinding to fit the larger parts I've spent he afternoon grinding the top, bottom, and vertical wall to the fit of the ring as well as opening a shoulder in the inner pinion bearing race pocket to accept a specially machined race.
Pics don't do the work justice, I've taken a lot of material out of the top and bottom. I also had the ring gear turned down 1/4" to help cut down on the amount of material to be removed from the housing. The gaps you see between the ring and housing are roughly 1/4", Jantz prefers 3/8" clearance but I'm stopping here because I'm afraid the housing will get too thin.
At this point, the gears are not set up. Since this install requires a TON of grinding to fit the larger parts I've spent he afternoon grinding the top, bottom, and vertical wall to the fit of the ring as well as opening a shoulder in the inner pinion bearing race pocket to accept a specially machined race.
Pics don't do the work justice, I've taken a lot of material out of the top and bottom. I also had the ring gear turned down 1/4" to help cut down on the amount of material to be removed from the housing. The gaps you see between the ring and housing are roughly 1/4", Jantz prefers 3/8" clearance but I'm stopping here because I'm afraid the housing will get too thin.
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As you can see from the pics I'm using a fresh Power Lock diff with the clutches restacked to increase it's "grip". Iirc, we went from 5 clutches per side to 10 (I'd have to ask TARussell to be sure).
Close up of the turned ring gear
Sexy gear man TARussell
You've got to love 1 ton stuff because even when the ratio makes pinion small it's still big.
It's going to be a coupe of weeks before another update on the gears, Tom (TARussell) had shoulder surgery a week ago so I'm going to wait until he's well enough and feels like it before proceeding (since I only know enough to screw up a gear install ).
Close up of the turned ring gear
Sexy gear man TARussell
You've got to love 1 ton stuff because even when the ratio makes pinion small it's still big.
It's going to be a coupe of weeks before another update on the gears, Tom (TARussell) had shoulder surgery a week ago so I'm going to wait until he's well enough and feels like it before proceeding (since I only know enough to screw up a gear install
).
I have some questions about your doubler/d-shaft angles/axle locations.
Is your 205 clocked up 2"? If so did you have to adjust your floor pan to fit? I know you're running a 1" body lift, so you may not have had to. I also know your running a stock crossmember, does anything hang down further then that?
How bad are your d-shaft angles? You said you had some driveline vibes, but I don't know if you ever got them taken care of.
Also, I far back is your rear axle from stock? I know you were talking about maybe changing some things up before, but don't know if you ever did. I'm pretty sure your front axle is 2-3" forward.
I'm getting close to putting my doubler together, so I'm trying to get all my stuff straight before I start taking stuff apart. I want as little down time as possible.
Also seeing if there are a any updates on your truck.
Is your 205 clocked up 2"? If so did you have to adjust your floor pan to fit? I know you're running a 1" body lift, so you may not have had to. I also know your running a stock crossmember, does anything hang down further then that?
How bad are your d-shaft angles? You said you had some driveline vibes, but I don't know if you ever got them taken care of.
Also, I far back is your rear axle from stock? I know you were talking about maybe changing some things up before, but don't know if you ever did. I'm pretty sure your front axle is 2-3" forward.
I'm getting close to putting my doubler together, so I'm trying to get all my stuff straight before I start taking stuff apart. I want as little down time as possible.
Also seeing if there are a any updates on your truck.
I do have a 1" body lift and the doubler is rotated up 2", no floor pan interference at all. The lowest point of the 203 rangebox and the 205 are roughly equal to the top of the crossmember. This pic shows from an angle but I can take pics from any angle you want.
At the moment I am using a stock crossmember on the front (factory adapter) mounting foot. I don't have anything under the ORD adapter mounting foot but I intend to use a widened factory crossmember. Note: my front mounted crossmember is in the way of the front driveshaft so it'll have to be cut & "bridged" before I can install a front driveshaft.
Currently my rear axle is moved 1.0" back and it appears to be in the sock location. I intend to move it a total of 2.5" back. My rear driveshaft is approx. 35" long and is a single joint 1410 set up, sorry I don't know the shafts operating angle at the moment but the rear axle is @ stock angle. It's got a pretty good vibration, I would not want to drive it any real distance for fear of killing the joints. The pinion is kicked up some because of the 2.5" flip so I did the math and tried shimming it down 8° but there is no real difference. I would say there's no way to do it without a CV shaft (assuming 4"+ lift).
My front axle is pushed forward about 2" from the B52 swap and I'm happy with it. I've read that 3"+ can cause problems with the steering.
As for the front driveshaft, I haven't even begun to look at that yet. Plans are to use a Diy4x made flange/yoke set up (made from D60 outer stub yokes) and then a 1410 joint at the axle.
This is the current stance showing the axle positions. Once
How's Tom's shoulder? Getting my left rotator chug done mid March.
Tom's doing real good, he's actually doing better than another guy I know that had the same surgery. I think the biggest reason is he's doing rehab and joke exercises exactly like they're telling him to.
As usual, I let the Blazer sit for a long time and then jumped on it and did a bunch of work...
The Jana 76 conversion (D70 gears in a D60 housing) is finally complete! It's all reassembled and back under the truck.
The Jana 76 conversion (D70 gears in a D60 housing) is finally complete! It's all reassembled and back under the truck.
Last fall I bought a (used) 42° H.A.D. CV driveshaft and I was final time to cut & turn the perches and install the shaft.
While the axle was out I added a Blue Torch Fab truss too. I don't have the diff cover tie in yet but I have a Diy4x cover and plan to add the tabs to bolt the cover and truss together.
This is what the full truss & cover should look like (from Blue Torch Fab's site)
While the axle was out I added a Blue Torch Fab truss too. I don't have the diff cover tie in yet but I have a Diy4x cover and plan to add the tabs to bolt the cover and truss together.
This is what the full truss & cover should look like (from Blue Torch Fab's site)
Is alot of grinding needed to do that jana76 setup?
Also what is the purpose of the paint inside? Just curious.
Also what is the purpose of the paint inside? Just curious.
I also had a q-jet belt to my engine specs by Sean Murphy Induction. They're supposed to be pretty good, we'll see. I haven't installed it yet, I'll probably put it on next weekend.
Dude, SOOO much grinding is needed.
If I had it to do over, I might not. I easily took an 1/8" out of the top, bottom and vertical wall the pinion bearing sits in. I also had the ring gear turned down right at 1/4". With all that clearancing I achieved a solid 1/4" of space all the way around the ring, Jantz Eng. recommends 3/8".Edit: the paint is the same as the inside of an engine, helps oil drain back and what not. I really just thought it looked good.
Dude, SOOO much grinding is needed.
That sounds like alot of work. Are the gears that much stronger than a 60? Seems turning the ring gear down would lose strength. And also making the housing thinner....
Definitely cool though.
The bigger ring and pinion is supposed to be 33% stronger. As for turning the ring gear, it was so little I doubt it would hurt the overall strength. I still have more ring diameter than you have with some of the kits that trim the bottom of the housing.
