y5mgisi
1 ton status
Is it just a high speed highway vibe? Or an acceleration vibe? Or is it all the time?
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
91 Suburban V2500 - Tow/Weekend Rig - Build Thread
- Thread starter dhcomp
- Start date
Sounds like a pinion angle issue. I didn't read the entire build.
You could be right, haven't really looked at it.
Although, the axle i installed in supposed to be out of a burb, So no idea why the pinion angle would be any different than my stock SF.
Gonna reset the bearing lock nuts, and see where that puts me.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Going from 3.73 to 4.10 is it possible that now the driveshaft is just spinning faster at a given rate of speed and that could be causing it? Maybe the shaft needs re balanced for the higher rpm?
Not a bad theory, but i've wrung this truck out on the freeway....so the driveshaft has definitely seen high rpm use.
Flat highway i've had this thing in the 90's.....so 65 with 4.10's isn't and faster.
Thinking through things, when i set the rear hub lock nuts, i torqued to 50, and only backed off 1/8ish turns. Soudns like spec is 1/4 to 3/8 turns loose.
Going to take it apart and check it out.
Will report back after. And post some photos.
Ok, long overdue update.
Shortly after the swap, I reset the wheel bearings in the 14ff. Torqued to correct spec, had been nervous they were too tight the first time.
Overall tone, Frustrated as hell.
Commuted in it for a week or 2 while i needed it for work, and its been leaking a lot of oil. Constant cloud of oil smoke coming from oil burning on exhaust crossover.
Still vibes weird and makes weird noises on the highway, oh, and the 14ff pinion is leaking.
So, oil leak - first priority. Checked / resealed the oil pressure sending unit. Still leaking. Changed oil pan gasket, as it looked like it was coming from the back. No change, exact same leak = Rear Main Seal.
Dropped it off at a shop, because although capable, i have nowhere near enough time anymore to drop the trans, and i just need this thing to be reliable again
. 2 Objectives for the shop - Diagnose oil leak / change rear main, and change pinion seal.
Long story short, gear pattern needed to be checked to insure correct gear setup after pinon seal / bearing change, so i authorized the shop to overhaul ALL bearings. $$$. When they got in there, they said the gear setup was totally off, but didn't show bad wear, so they resetup the gears. My guess is the only use while setup wrong was my 1000 or so commute miles, must have been tampered with before I swapped it in. So, hopefully that doesn't leak....
Oil leak: Rear main was leaking between main seal and seal carrier. Shop dropped the trans, changed rear main. $$$ Found oil leak coming from rear of intake, double checked with smoke machine, and intake gasket is leaking oil.
Decided to stop the $ bleeding, and brought it home from the shop, still leaking a good amount of oil. Tore into the intake gasket today. Really, wasn't that hard, just time consuming.
Put it all back together, and although its running better and leaking less, its still leaking from somewhere. Too soon to tell where, and no more time, so postponed to another day. Rear axle is quieter after overhaul, but still significantly louder and less smooth than my 14sf.
Outstanding issues:
- Loud clunk from passenger side rear over bumps. Sounds bad. Has been doing this since axle swap, but i checked shock mounts, ubolts, etc, and haven't been able to find it.
- Still have high speed freeway vibes, although not as bad as before. Still probably driveshaft, but had a hard time checking angles, and really, isn't a top priority yet.
- Oil Leak. Going to talk to that shop again, and keep them updated, and see what other ideas they have. Seems to be coming from the rear main area again, out the bottom of the inspection cover.
The shop I took it to was recommended by a member here, and built my 4l80e a few years ago. I trust them, and think they do good work, and really, they gave me a pretty good deal. That being said, still frustrated at the amount of $$$ I've spent to really not have eliminated any problems.
Luckily, there isn't' any snow, so i haven't needed to drive it to Tahoe yet.
Lesson learned - axle swap is a HUGE project / change. We talk about it on here like it's no big deal, but really, it is.
Haven't sold my old axles yet, and have an extra 14ff laying around, but I'm into this swap over $1400 already, with little improvement. Haven't towed with the 4.10's yet, but like everyone says, the swap 1 step in gears probably isn't' worth it. So basically, I have Slightly better gears than when i started, a full float rear, lots of new noises / issues, and a lighter wallet.
Sorry for the long, rambling post. Hopefully i can fix the clunk next week, and get this thing up to the snow, and find more motivation to keep fixing it....
Shortly after the swap, I reset the wheel bearings in the 14ff. Torqued to correct spec, had been nervous they were too tight the first time.
Overall tone, Frustrated as hell.
Commuted in it for a week or 2 while i needed it for work, and its been leaking a lot of oil. Constant cloud of oil smoke coming from oil burning on exhaust crossover.
Still vibes weird and makes weird noises on the highway, oh, and the 14ff pinion is leaking.
So, oil leak - first priority. Checked / resealed the oil pressure sending unit. Still leaking. Changed oil pan gasket, as it looked like it was coming from the back. No change, exact same leak = Rear Main Seal.
Dropped it off at a shop, because although capable, i have nowhere near enough time anymore to drop the trans, and i just need this thing to be reliable again
. 2 Objectives for the shop - Diagnose oil leak / change rear main, and change pinion seal.Long story short, gear pattern needed to be checked to insure correct gear setup after pinon seal / bearing change, so i authorized the shop to overhaul ALL bearings. $$$. When they got in there, they said the gear setup was totally off, but didn't show bad wear, so they resetup the gears. My guess is the only use while setup wrong was my 1000 or so commute miles, must have been tampered with before I swapped it in. So, hopefully that doesn't leak....
Oil leak: Rear main was leaking between main seal and seal carrier. Shop dropped the trans, changed rear main. $$$ Found oil leak coming from rear of intake, double checked with smoke machine, and intake gasket is leaking oil
. Decided to stop the $ bleeding, and brought it home from the shop, still leaking a good amount of oil. Tore into the intake gasket today. Really, wasn't that hard, just time consuming.
Put it all back together, and although its running better and leaking less, its still leaking from somewhere. Too soon to tell where, and no more time, so postponed to another day. Rear axle is quieter after overhaul, but still significantly louder and less smooth than my 14sf.
Outstanding issues:
- Loud clunk from passenger side rear over bumps. Sounds bad. Has been doing this since axle swap, but i checked shock mounts, ubolts, etc, and haven't been able to find it.
- Still have high speed freeway vibes, although not as bad as before. Still probably driveshaft, but had a hard time checking angles, and really, isn't a top priority yet.
- Oil Leak. Going to talk to that shop again, and keep them updated, and see what other ideas they have. Seems to be coming from the rear main area again, out the bottom of the inspection cover.
The shop I took it to was recommended by a member here, and built my 4l80e a few years ago. I trust them, and think they do good work, and really, they gave me a pretty good deal. That being said, still frustrated at the amount of $$$ I've spent to really not have eliminated any problems.
Luckily, there isn't' any snow, so i haven't needed to drive it to Tahoe yet.
Lesson learned - axle swap is a HUGE project / change. We talk about it on here like it's no big deal, but really, it is.
Haven't sold my old axles yet, and have an extra 14ff laying around, but I'm into this swap over $1400 already, with little improvement. Haven't towed with the 4.10's yet, but like everyone says, the swap 1 step in gears probably isn't' worth it. So basically, I have Slightly better gears than when i started, a full float rear, lots of new noises / issues, and a lighter wallet.
Sorry for the long, rambling post. Hopefully i can fix the clunk next week, and get this thing up to the snow, and find more motivation to keep fixing it....
If your other 14bff seams to be cleaner or smoother, it might be worth the effort to swap the backing plates and ebrake cables and put it in instead.
As for the oil leak, the only way to find it is pressure wash the engine and then drive it one day only, and then see where the oil is comming from.
Can't be all that many place to leak, if you already covered a couple of spots, you should be able to narrow it down faster now.
As for the oil leak, the only way to find it is pressure wash the engine and then drive it one day only, and then see where the oil is comming from.
Can't be all that many place to leak, if you already covered a couple of spots, you should be able to narrow it down faster now.
Ok, long overdue update.
Shortly after the swap, I reset the wheel bearings in the 14ff. Torqued to correct spec, had been nervous they were too tight the first time.
Overall tone, Frustrated as hell.
Commuted in it for a week or 2 while i needed it for work, and its been leaking a lot of oil. Constant cloud of oil smoke coming from oil burning on exhaust crossover.
Still vibes weird and makes weird noises on the highway, oh, and the 14ff pinion is leaking.
So, oil leak - first priority. Checked / resealed the oil pressure sending unit. Still leaking. Changed oil pan gasket, as it looked like it was coming from the back. No change, exact same leak = Rear Main Seal.
Dropped it off at a shop, because although capable, i have nowhere near enough time anymore to drop the trans, and i just need this thing to be reliable again
Long story short, gear pattern needed to be checked to insure correct gear setup after pinon seal / bearing change, so i authorized the shop to overhaul ALL bearings. $$$. When they got in there, they said the gear setup was totally off, but didn't show bad wear, so they resetup the gears. My guess is the only use while setup wrong was my 1000 or so commute miles, must have been tampered with before I swapped it in. So, hopefully that doesn't leak....
Oil leak: Rear main was leaking between main seal and seal carrier. Shop dropped the trans, changed rear main. $$$ Found oil leak coming from rear of intake, double checked with smoke machine, and intake gasket is leaking oil
Decided to stop the $ bleeding, and brought it home from the shop, still leaking a good amount of oil. Tore into the intake gasket today. Really, wasn't that hard, just time consuming.
Put it all back together, and although its running better and leaking less, its still leaking from somewhere. Too soon to tell where, and no more time, so postponed to another day. Rear axle is quieter after overhaul, but still significantly louder and less smooth than my 14sf.
Outstanding issues:
- Loud clunk from passenger side rear over bumps. Sounds bad. Has been doing this since axle swap, but i checked shock mounts, ubolts, etc, and haven't been able to find it.
- Still have high speed freeway vibes, although not as bad as before. Still probably driveshaft, but had a hard time checking angles, and really, isn't a top priority yet.
- Oil Leak. Going to talk to that shop again, and keep them updated, and see what other ideas they have. Seems to be coming from the rear main area again, out the bottom of the inspection cover.
The shop I took it to was recommended by a member here, and built my 4l80e a few years ago. I trust them, and think they do good work, and really, they gave me a pretty good deal. That being said, still frustrated at the amount of $$$ I've spent to really not have eliminated any problems.
Luckily, there isn't' any snow, so i haven't needed to drive it to Tahoe yet.
Lesson learned - axle swap is a HUGE project / change. We talk about it on here like it's no big deal, but really, it is.
Haven't sold my old axles yet, and have an extra 14ff laying around, but I'm into this swap over $1400 already, with little improvement. Haven't towed with the 4.10's yet, but like everyone says, the swap 1 step in gears probably isn't' worth it. So basically, I have Slightly better gears than when i started, a full float rear, lots of new noises / issues, and a lighter wallet.
Sorry for the long, rambling post. Hopefully i can fix the clunk next week, and get this thing up to the snow, and find more motivation to keep fixing it....
If your other 14bff seams to be cleaner or smoother, it might be worth the effort to swap the backing plates and ebrake cables and put it in instead.
As for the oil leak, the only way to find it is pressure wash the engine and then drive it one day only, and then see where the oil is comming from.
Can't be all that many place to leak, if you already covered a couple of spots, you should be able to narrow it down faster now.
Not after spending $700 on a bearing overhaul on this one......
This one is now staying in this truck Forever
This motor/trans combo is a mess, needs a good cleaning, there is oil / ATF everywhere. I'll track it down eventually, but it seems to be coming out of the inspection cover...
RollinKaos
1/2 ton status
Are you sure it is engine oil that is still leaking now? Could be the front pump on the trans too. Also there is a couple of oil galley plugs on the back side of the engine IIRC that can leak out the bottom of the inspection cover. Sucks about how much time and money you have put into this. Hopefully it will all balance out soon and you can enjoy it.
Are these plugs above or below the bellhousing? If its inside the bell housing, and i've already paid to have the trans removed and installed once....its gonna keep leaking
The main issue keeping me from really driving it far is this giant clunk with suspension movement. Hopefully that one can get handled easily enough, and i can put some snow miles on this beast again .
RollinKaos
1/2 ton status
Plugs are on the back side of the motor under the bellhousing.
COCHEV
1/2 ton status
Are these plugs above or below the bellhousing? If its inside the bell housing, and i've already paid to have the trans removed and installed once....its gonna keep leaking
The main issue keeping me from really driving it far is this giant clunk with suspension movement. Hopefully that one can get handled easily enough, and i can put some snow miles on this beast again .
Have you jacket up each wheel and done the ol wiggle and shake to make sure your bearing preload process was done right? Or stupid stuff like making sure your lug nuts are tight...i did that one a couple years ago prooving you're never too old to make a noob mistake every now and then. Got in a hurry and skipped it
Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Tapatalk
Yep, but will go through it again.
Wonder if the top shock mount worked its way loose....
Well if you put that 14bff in your truck and come this way I will help you figure out the clunck, and I would even help you find the oil leaks.
I am home from now till the 10th when I leave on my vacation.
One more simple thing: Check the shock itself. Pull it off and cycle it through it's range. Make sure the rod is straight etc.
And if misery loves company, then feel better that I have the same leak problem as you in my 383. I have been putting up with it for a few years and have to add about a quart of oil every 200 miles. I had the rear main changed during a 4l80e rebuild and it did not help.
And if misery loves company, then feel better that I have the same leak problem as you in my 383. I have been putting up with it for a few years and have to add about a quart of oil every 200 miles. I had the rear main changed during a 4l80e rebuild and it did not help.
Funny you said that. Read the post after figuring out that the shock is hitting the bottom of its travel.
Makes some Awful noises!
The shock mounts on the stock 14sf and new 14ff are at least 2"-2.5" different. This, plus 1" zero rates, put my shock JUST before the end of its travel at ride height. Add that to the fact that my springs aren't even, and the right side was hitting the end of the travel over big bumps Before the left, causing even more weird suspension issues.
14SF Mount
14FF mount
At least i figured it out, too bad its probably $2-300 in shocks to fix it....
Glad I got it solved though!
The ones on there are BSN-F4B460933H0
Now i need to measure for the correct ones, but getting 3" longer ones with the same valving would work too.
Last edited:
Ok, now i need help.
Who lists shocks for lifted applications?
1" Add a Leaf, plus lower shock mount = need for longer shock.
Apparently, i have the 4600 series Bilstein's, not the 5100's.
If i can get the 4600's in longer, great. If not, maybe i get 5100's for all 4 corners and do it right. hm.... where do you guys like to order non-stock shocks?
Who lists shocks for lifted applications?
1" Add a Leaf, plus lower shock mount = need for longer shock.
Apparently, i have the 4600 series Bilstein's, not the 5100's.
If i can get the 4600's in longer, great. If not, maybe i get 5100's for all 4 corners and do it right. hm.... where do you guys like to order non-stock shocks?
cdoggwsu
1/2 ton status
He's not an official vendor but we do have a rep from www.ajusa.com here. They were offering 10% off + free shipping to CK5 members awhile back; it'd probably be worth a shot to shoot him a PM and see if the discount is still good.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=290727&highlight=bilstein
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=290727&highlight=bilstein
Cool, will do. So all the 5100's are valved the same?
Gotta measure, but will probably pick up 2.5"ers for the front, and 3-4"ers for the rear, due to the shock mounting location. I want to measure mine, but really, my springs are F'd, and i'd like to throw some new stock springs in their eventaully, which will probably be good for close to another inch.
Gotta measure, but will probably pick up 2.5"ers for the front, and 3-4"ers for the rear, due to the shock mounting location. I want to measure mine, but really, my springs are F'd, and i'd like to throw some new stock springs in their eventaully, which will probably be good for close to another inch.
