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91 V1500 4WD "Clifford" Build
- Thread starter 702GS
- Start date
Glad you're part of the group. Build on.
David
David
702GS, what is your name? or did I miss it? From the context of the way you write I think English may not be your first language...Yes? No offense intended.
Now, I have BFG 33x12.50's on stock rallys...no problem.
HOA's bring the suck. I can't fathom someone else telling me what I can and can't do on MY PROPERTY. Wish I could be there for the thrash session!
I took a loan from my TSP (gov't 401k) to pay off taxes and our medical bills. I may have enough left over to start my build. I have a shackle flip kit. Here's a homemade version install. I have ORD's kit, it's much better than the homemade rig. Super beefy.
At the top of the page you will see the "Resources" tab. Click it, then you will see "Categories" on the left side of the page. Click "Technical Articles". You will find lots of how to and why articles. Lottsa good stuff in there.
Now, I have BFG 33x12.50's on stock rallys...no problem.
HOA's bring the suck. I can't fathom someone else telling me what I can and can't do on MY PROPERTY. Wish I could be there for the thrash session!
I took a loan from my TSP (gov't 401k) to pay off taxes and our medical bills. I may have enough left over to start my build. I have a shackle flip kit. Here's a homemade version install. I have ORD's kit, it's much better than the homemade rig. Super beefy.
At the top of the page you will see the "Resources" tab. Click it, then you will see "Categories" on the left side of the page. Click "Technical Articles". You will find lots of how to and why articles. Lottsa good stuff in there.
Oh yeah, I love rear a/c. I didn't need the front on when the rear was blowing. It will cool the entire 'burb! My 'burbs didn't come with rear a/c, so I am reverse engineering them...lol
You didn't miss my name, Clifford works. American English wasn't my first language, nice read.
Perfect, thanks!
I've gotten used to it, wish this country was the land of the free. Having a HOA seems like an extension of the over governing round these parts.
This sounds good? Not a fan of credit or loans so I'm not the best to comment on such matters. I've gone with ORD's suggested build list so I'm hoping I'm good, time will tell.
This is great, wish you told me sooner!
Cheers,
Clifford
You can get better prices on your a/c components.
Vintage Air has that bracket for 1/2 of the one you linked.
Here's a how to I lifted from Thirdgen.org...
I did a very similar Sanden conversion on my '86 Suburban. I had already done a serpentine accessories conversion from my '90 5.7L Suburban, so I had the R-4 style compressor along with that.
I did mine a lot cheaper than $445 though. I got the Vintage Air R-4 to Sanden conversion brackets for $70 (exactly the same as what's pictured in that auction), a remanufactured Sanden 508 compressor for an '89 Jeep Cherokee off eBay for $80 (already set up for a GM-style seven rib serpentine belt), a Four Seasons #38621 Orifice Tube from an 80's Ford Thunderbird, a new ACDelco Reciever/Drier from RockAuto, and a GM-style Sanden Compressor Backpad from eBay (short style, so it will clear the valve cover, and has the GM-style hook-up so you don't have to get custom lines made). Make sure you get the right backpad, there are two for GM style lines. The Q-pad has the right hookup, but the hose positions are reversed from factory Third Gen lines. You want the pad that has the suction on the left and discharge on the right (as you look at the pad from the rear).
That setup worked great on a serpentine belt setup, but I don't think you could do it with a driver's side V-belt car. If you want to do the conversion, I would recommend doing the serpentine swap first, then the compressor swap. I've been very pleased with the Sanden swap. It cools great, and engine load is much less than the old R-4 compressor. It's also a lot lighter if you're into keeping track of those sorts of things. The vintage air brackets fit great, but I did have to a layer of washers to set back the compressor slightly before it stopped throwing serpentine belts. That could have just as easily been due to the SBC to BBC serpentine conversion brackets as the compressor conversion bracket though. Let me know if you have any questions. I can take pictures of my setup if you want to see it.
-cal30sniper
Vintage Air has that bracket for 1/2 of the one you linked.
Here's a how to I lifted from Thirdgen.org...
I did a very similar Sanden conversion on my '86 Suburban. I had already done a serpentine accessories conversion from my '90 5.7L Suburban, so I had the R-4 style compressor along with that.
I did mine a lot cheaper than $445 though. I got the Vintage Air R-4 to Sanden conversion brackets for $70 (exactly the same as what's pictured in that auction), a remanufactured Sanden 508 compressor for an '89 Jeep Cherokee off eBay for $80 (already set up for a GM-style seven rib serpentine belt), a Four Seasons #38621 Orifice Tube from an 80's Ford Thunderbird, a new ACDelco Reciever/Drier from RockAuto, and a GM-style Sanden Compressor Backpad from eBay (short style, so it will clear the valve cover, and has the GM-style hook-up so you don't have to get custom lines made). Make sure you get the right backpad, there are two for GM style lines. The Q-pad has the right hookup, but the hose positions are reversed from factory Third Gen lines. You want the pad that has the suction on the left and discharge on the right (as you look at the pad from the rear).
That setup worked great on a serpentine belt setup, but I don't think you could do it with a driver's side V-belt car. If you want to do the conversion, I would recommend doing the serpentine swap first, then the compressor swap. I've been very pleased with the Sanden swap. It cools great, and engine load is much less than the old R-4 compressor. It's also a lot lighter if you're into keeping track of those sorts of things. The vintage air brackets fit great, but I did have to a layer of washers to set back the compressor slightly before it stopped throwing serpentine belts. That could have just as easily been due to the SBC to BBC serpentine conversion brackets as the compressor conversion bracket though. Let me know if you have any questions. I can take pictures of my setup if you want to see it.
-cal30sniper
We bloody well need it right now.
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Since getting Clifford back I noticed my passenger side brake light and turn single aren't working.
After checking the easy stuff, fuses, grounds and flashers I stumbled upon this post https://ck5.com/forums/threads/rear-brakelight-turn-signal-wiring-help.296342/
Grabbed a signal switch from local parts store and wouldn't you know it, problem solved. Tomorrow I will be tearing apart the steering column and installing.
After checking the easy stuff, fuses, grounds and flashers I stumbled upon this post https://ck5.com/forums/threads/rear-brakelight-turn-signal-wiring-help.296342/
Grabbed a signal switch from local parts store and wouldn't you know it, problem solved. Tomorrow I will be tearing apart the steering column and installing.
Replacing the turn signal switch is not an easy task, fitting the wiring harness down the steering column was impossible, I ended up cutting it into 2 and soldering the connections once I was able to feed the wires down.
Good news, we have working brake lights and turn signals!
Good news, we have working brake lights and turn signals!
My rear side door windows both don't roll all the way down, the drivers side gets to a certain point and just clicks. The passenger side window just stops, but goes down further than the drivers side.
Not sure what the issue is but I need to address this as the outer window seals need the window all the way down to install correctly. Right now they are just sorta in there.
Not sure what the issue is but I need to address this as the outer window seals need the window all the way down to install correctly. Right now they are just sorta in there.
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Had the same problem on one of my rear doors. It ended up needing a motor. I would pop the door panel off to make sure nothing is binding, but likely needs motors.
door panels are still off after paint, we painted the jams and the entire doors. I will grab new motors, they all need them (minus the drivers). I should also install the kit to connect the motors direct to the battery.
LMC has a kit for this, appears it is just relays???
