91 V1500 4WD "Clifford" Build

[702GS]

Just picked this up, shout out to muddysub's thread for pushing past the idea of owning one of these to going out and getting one!

Immediate plans:

- Fix Windows (Drivers side does not move, the rest get about 3/4 down)
- Upgrade AC (It's too hot round these parts to not have great air)
- Replace seals (Window, Door etc)
- Paint (No matter what color we go with, he will always be Clifford)

Future plans:

- Powerplant swap (thinking 8.1L)
- Transmission swap (would like 5 speed manny)
- Replace most if not all suspension parts (dana 60 etc?)

Side note, this is my first domestic vehicle.

Clifford 91 V1500 4WD

• 702GS
• Jul 25, 2015

 

[Big Ray]

Nice burb!

Hello and Welcome

That is nice, you have rear heat and air.

 

[702GS]

Nice burb!

Hello and Welcome

That is nice, you have rear heat and air.

Thanks! When I was looking at this, I thought the guy selling it was saying there is the rear heat as in it still needs to be installed somewhere! Nope, thats how it was made.

 

[702GS]

Got the front drivers side window motor replaced over the weekend, it was over 100 degrees outside so I was in no rush to get her done. If you are replacing your power window motor it is a very easy task, getting the regulator out can be tricky. Just take your time and wiggle it out!

Next up is AC + trying to find out why the stereo will not work, There is an issue with the wiring as it stands now. The speaker wires are intact with the stock harness however the power wires have been hacked at some point during Clifford's 25 year life.

AC parts list:
$184.97 Compressor
$114.88 Bracket
$319.06 Condenser
$618.91 Total

 

[Big Ray]

I have 18" forearms...for me doing window motors absolutely sucks...arms look like I stuck them in a cage full of bobcats...

next truck of mine that has a window motor go out is going to get swapped to manual

 

[702GS]

I have 18" forearms...for me doing window motors absolutely sucks...arms look like I stuck them in a cage full of bobcats...

next truck of mine that has a window motor go out is going to get swapped to manual

Thankfully I don't have near the size of your forearms, needless to say it was still a tight squeeze which left my arms torn up.

I considered going manny powered....

 

[muddysub]

awesome, glad to see you've started a build thread.

 

[82355]

I have small fore arms, or so I think. I loathe working inside the doors.

Nice Suburban.

Martin

 

[702GS]

awesome, glad to see you've started a build thread.

Thanks man, if it wasn't for yours I might not even be a Sub owner.

I have small fore arms, or so I think. I loathe working inside the doors.

Nice Suburban.

Martin

I hear ya, just had to be done! And thanks!


--------------------------

Planning on doing brakes coming up here soon, the metal on metal is getting old, any brands you recommend and any to stay clear of?

 

[82355]

You are planning on an axle swap, not?

Martin

 

[702GS]

You are planning on an axle swap, not?

Martin

Yes, but don't even know where to start on sourcing them. I typically like to stock pile parts and then do them all at once. So my thinking was to get Clifford at least safe to drive until then.

 

[muddysub]

If you're gonna replace the axles eventually, don't spend any extra money on expensive brake pads. I've never noticed much difference between brands, except for EBC.

 

[702GS]

If you're gonna replace the axles eventually, don't spend any extra money on expensive brake pads. I've never noticed much difference between brands, except for EBC.

Perfect this was exactly what I was hoping for.

 

[cyclic]

Biggest thing you need to ask yourself, how big are you going? If the REAL answer is not that big, then the factory axles are fine.
I gave a large amount of thought before I started modding mine. I decided that for a daily driver truck that my absolute limit on tires was 33 or 34 inches. I'm currently running 32 and I am VERY happy with the size and ground clearance they give me. So I kept my 10 bolts and did a monster front brake upgrade, and a 10 disk rear. Gave me all the braking and modern parts I wanted without the weight and drag penalty of going to 1 tons. (Not to mention the cost).

Just a 2.5 lift and carefully picked parts, on 32 inch tires....................

 

[702GS]

Thanks for taking the time to help me on this path, you bring some great points to the table. Might you be so kind to share with me the upgrades you did?

 

[Big Ray]

Biggest thing you need to ask yourself, how big are you going? If the REAL answer is not that big, then the factory axles are fine.
I gave a large amount of thought before I started modding mine. I decided that for a daily driver truck that my absolute limit on tires was 33 or 34 inches. I'm currently running 32 and I am VERY happy with the size and ground clearance they give me. So I kept my 10 bolts and did a monster front brake upgrade, and a 10 disk rear. Gave me all the braking and modern parts I wanted without the weight and drag penalty of going to 1 tons. (Not to mention the cost).

Just a 2.5 lift and carefully picked parts, on 32 inch tires....................

I agree about the 10 bolts, bur I've been driving my 3/4 ton 'burb with the 9.5 semifloat so long I would just feel better if I put one in my 4x burb. If I had a pickup or a K5 I wouldn't worry about it at all. Big weight difference

I'll keep the front 10 bolt until it breaks, if ever.

 

[cyclic]

Just do a search for threads started by me, I haven't really updated it in awhile, it's there.
The hi lights.....................
Upgraded TBI computer (Dynamic EFI)
lifted 2.5 inches, spring front with sway bar pivots, rear shackle flip
disk break rear axle from a 04 Silverado (also widens the rear track width perfectly)
front caliper and free float rotor set-up from a 2010 H3 Hummer
17 inch rims with 265/70R17 tires (32 inches)

 

[cyclic]

I also have to say, the 91 is a great burb to build. Electronic speedo, just about all the good parts and every possible step forward but still in a square body truck.

Just a little work and the tranny is actually a pretty solid one. I wouldn't swap it unless you really just wanna throw money at it. If you have 3.73 gears you can live with up to 33 inch tires. If you want any bigger you'll need to go 4.10 or better. Another secret to our big trucks, loose the overly wide tires. Make for a bunch of drag and rolling resistance. Tall 235/85r16 or 255/85r15 tires really make the truck more efficient. Won't look as cool, but it will perform better.

 

[702GS]

disk break rear axle from a 04 Silverado (also widens the rear track width perfectly)
front caliper and free float rotor set-up from a 2010 H3 Hummer

This is what I was interested in, I will look into this more. Thank you again!

 

[cyclic]

The shocking part is how little it actually cost for the front upgrade. Then the conversion actually makes working on the front easier. Having the rotor slip over the hub makes brake and hub work much simpler. All repair parts are off the shelf items (once done only the rotor holes would need opened up if replaced, easy with a hand drill).

Just be aware, I recommend getting the wheels/tires first. As they are specific to clear the brakes. For this any Hummer H3 wheel should work great. I'm going with the Black Rock 937 as soon as I get the scratch together to do it. The ones on my truck right now work, but I have 1/4 inch spacer on the front. Not a fan of spacers, but it works. The holes in my rims just touched the calipers and the 1/4 spacer did the trick. Another option would be some later model rims with the center opened up, but no guarantees. 15 inch rims WILL NOT work. It will have to be 16 or bigger.