96 Donzi Classic 22

Discussion in 'Other Rides' started by dhcomp, Sep 4, 2017.

  1. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    all the merc blues are the same since the T-Rex...

    ah, Amazon... ;)

    https://www.amazon.com/Mercruiser-Manifold-Engine-Block-Drain/dp/B0077PRD6U


    oh, and I can tell you EVERY stooopid trick for drive removal/install/service too... unfortunately I do about 30 Bravo's a yr, round trip... they be about 170 lb's...
     
  2. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    missed this....

    I'd slow your roll cowboy.. ;) that's a fair bit of fockin around in a drive that may not need it..

    and just a word of caution.. a bellows job is a bit convoluted if you don't know what your doing... the bellhousing needs to be removed, hinge pins, needs to be prepped right, installed in a proper sequence, yada, yada... and anywhere in that process, you moving the hanging bellhousing the wrong way, and you WILL break the oil tube, which is an utter nightmare...

    when you remove the drive, you'll inspect the gimble bearing and bellows, no water inside the bellows and no dry rotting externally, and just stick your hand in there and spin the bearing back and forth with a couple fingers, you'll hear, feel it if it's bad.. when bad they'll groan at idle... if they are good, generally ya leave them, unless there is history..known water anywhere, dry rot on the bellows, etc.... there is a grease zerc on the side of the drive for the gimble bearing before reinstall...

    throw in, there are about 5 merc specific tools in those jobs there that you WILL need... pretty specific gimble bearing puller, alignment bar, bellows driver, bearing driver, etc... which can add up...


    now.. on that note, the real question as to whether you need to venture into the transom assembly, outside of water infiltration, is this, does the boat have a trim gauge (I'm assuming it does), if so does it work?

    if not, you more than likely need puck work......


    oh, wood cradle for drive storage out of 2" x 8" or 12" .. 2 a skegs width apart, than a couple perpendicular at the ends.. like 2' x 2' footprint.. watch the shift cable if you pull that drive without a yard arm.. easy enough, just gotta know what to expect or it could get hurt from the weight...



    oh, sorry missed the exhaust question... you more than likely have a failed exhaust bellows, which sits right below the main, joint bellows... while annoying, it's not really a critical failure per se, plenty of boats running around with bad exhaust bellows... :haha: there are 2 styles, clamp at both ends (pain in the arse), or slip-in style.. not sure what that'll have off the top of the head.. i could look it up from that drive # if i had a minute at work... it'll be obvious tho... if it's the clamp at both end, you need a special tool, slip-on is just hose clamps and simple...

    i see it has a shower head.. :pimp:
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2017
  3. dhcomp

    dhcomp 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Copy. With my wrenching time so limited, i'd rather have the parts on hand and not need them rather than visa versa.

    Downloaded a cheap copy of service manual 11, so i have some reading to do this winter.

    Funny you mention building a cart, the same ideas were going through my head this evening.

    Scored a spot in a friend's heated hanger, so I'll be doing nothing but thinking and watching drive removal videos for the next 6 months.

    Want to get in there and see what condition everything really is in. Although, did a closer inspection of what i could see today, and it looked in decent condition.

    Thanks for the help, i'm sure i'll be looking for more in the spring!
     
  4. dhcomp

    dhcomp 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Away in its winter home. This was before we crammed an RV, fishing boat, a Malibu, and another plane In there.

    E5D148C5-9F52-4677-89BE-F71810807913.jpeg
     
    beags86, ryoken and skunked like this.
  5. dhcomp

    dhcomp 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Hey Paul,
    Does the stock hour meter tie into somewhere in the factory mercruiser harness, or are most just tied to Key on power?

    The stereo is on an accessory switch, so there isn't much risk just tying into the key. Just want to tie in like factory if possible.

    This boat doesn't have one, and as much as i can get it read off the ECM, I'd still like to track my useage between services.

    Thanks!
     
  6. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    on that package, it should just be wired into the switch somewhere in the hull system to have an actual in-dash hr meter.. that 555 (iirc) ECM records the true hr's for laptop display.... DIACOM is the software we use... later on, all that stuff is displayed on SmartCraft screens, etc...


    does the boat have a working trim gauge?
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2017
  7. dhcomp

    dhcomp 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Ok.

    Yep, trim gauge works.
     
  8. dhcomp

    dhcomp 1 ton status Premium Member

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    What’s the professional way to fill the drive from the bottom? I hate those disposable hand pumps
     
  9. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    that's good, it means the gauge puck (right side of the bell housing) is working... I can give you the test to make sure it is adjusted correctly if ya want to do that at some point.. pretty simple with the boat on land..

    the left puck is your limit puck... that only allows the drive to go up to 21 3/4" length on the rams.. a minimum degree.. as opposed to your "trailering" switch that brings it all the way up... that keeps you from trimming the drive too high while running and exploding u-joints... that's all you need to do to check if that's working.. trim it down on the trailer, than trim up till it stops, it should be roughly that 21 3/4 from the front bolt to back on the rams..


    we run the 5 gallon pump set up.. like this..... take a pretty good beating...


    [​IMG]



    pull both plugs... thread into bottom hole.. pump until it comes out the top hole... Bravo is about 50 to 60 pumps depending on temp... put top plug in.. unthread fill from bottom and slap that plug in...

    keep in mind, it's a Bravo.. it is being fed by your bottle on the engine.... so it's gonna gravity feed fill the whole upper after... make sure you top off the bottle when you reinstall a drive.. as they will generally "burp" once run and lower the bottle.. if the bottle goes empty,you will get an alarm...
     
  10. dhcomp

    dhcomp 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Didnt realize one switch raised it higher than the normal one. Good thing to learn. Definitely need to check limits.
     
  11. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    well, it has the switch on the throttle... if it does NOT have a dedicated "Trailer" switch in the dash, than the button on the throttle is a 2 position switch... if you push it once, it gives you the standard trim and should stop at that 21 point.. if you double push the switch, it will be in trailer mode and go all the way up... if it does not stop at that 21 3/4 or so, it more than likely has a bad limit puck..... not the end of the world, just have to be aware of it running the boat.. your not moving the drive much anyway for proper trimming...
     
  12. dhcomp

    dhcomp 1 ton status Premium Member

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    It definitely has the Trailer switch.

    I’ve just been trimming it by ear, and not much past 1/4 up from down on the gauge once planed out. I’m sure I’m within safe limits, but will definitely get it adjusted. Great tip. I have lots more to learn from the master! Thanks
     
  13. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    basically you want the trim gauge adjusted so when the drive is all the way down, it's on the bottom line, and the second you start moving the drive up, the gauge starts going up, if it's delayed at all, it needs adjustment, or if it never goes all the way down to the bottom line in the first place... usually they only go about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way up the gauge when they've reached their limit, but that can vary...

    adjusting the pucks is easy, just finicky.. anything, holla....
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2017
  14. dhcomp

    dhcomp 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Here’s one for you.

    9C617BFF-201C-44C9-B3E5-535A5EFC4E59.jpeg

    Halon auto extinguisher. Green “ok” light doesn’t light. Guessing pressure is low and it’s dead

    Can these be recharged, or do I replace with a fm 200 or something of the like?
     
  15. dhcomp

    dhcomp 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Another question since I’m away from the boat.

    What would standard battery cable size be? Getting ready to rewire and add a battery
     
  16. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    check with your local fire guy, iirc they just weigh em... they ain't cheap new usually..

    i usually run 2 to 1/0 in gas apps depending on what was in there... it definitely varies from boat manny to manny, and obviously the amp draws, etc.. dizzle i'll run up to 4/0... same rules apply as elsewhere, beef doesn't hurt, other than wallet and user-friendliness.... make sure you nut up and get a quality tinned marine cable like Anchor...
     
  17. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    oh, keep in mind too, that the modern coast guard and ABYC standard is that the ground side is yellow, not black..
     
  18. dhcomp

    dhcomp 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Ok. Yellow?!! Not sure I can handle yellow
     
  19. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    yup, been industry standard for quite some time.. any sea ray, etc ya buy after i'd say mid/late 90's are yellow..




    [​IMG]
     
  20. dhcomp

    dhcomp 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Did not know that. Never got into the inboard ski Boats then. That’s mainly what I work on, but 10+ in the 90s til now we’re always red black
     

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