I had no idea they can go that fast. Mine can hit 48 MPH..... 
About half of your speed! 
About half of your speed! CK5
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96 Donzi Classic 22
- Thread starter dhcomp
- Start date
Very cool story and very cool boat. Glad it all worked out. And props (no pun intended) to Brian on helping a guy out 
My eyes!!!! 
I had no idea they can go that fast. Mine can hit 48 MPH.....
Light driver, sea level, probably good for 70. We shall see.
Probably need to swap out props for the elevation at home?
Yep. Need to check the specs, but only saw 4500 rpm at wot. Should be safe up to 5000 I think. So a prop is in order
There’s a checkmate zt280 with a 502 in our storage building that runs 87mph.... But he has a procharger. Lol
A little looking around says WOT is around 4200-4600. I would of thought a little higher.
I'd check out OJ or ACME prop and see what can be done. Does it say anywhere on the engine it's WOT stat??
it'll say rpm's right on the sticker on that electronic box... it is 4200 to 4600 iirc.. which for that early MPI is right... newer 496's are 4600 to 5200 generally.... i'll post more after i get back from the surgeon...
I’ll look at it. Manual says 4600-5000.
Don’t think Oj or acme does those props, but will look into the appropriate provider.
Planning to get ryoken the engine number this evening, so we can stop guessing on specifics.
Don’t think Oj or acme does those props, but will look into the appropriate provider.
Planning to get ryoken the engine number this evening, so we can stop guessing on specifics.
I guess I assmued they make any type of props. Maybe just the Inboards/V-Drive type boats?!? Not I/o's....??
Lol, that was easy. Thought I was looking for a block tag number, didn’t know merc put all the info right in top!4600-5000
Paul, what sound deatening do you recommend for the bulkhead? The old egg crate stuff turns to dust when you crawl around In there and rub up against it. Should probably go with something a bit more durable.
Thanks!
http://www.soundown.com/
i'll look the number up tomorrow, but i know the motor pretty well.. I've done a few long block jobs with that mill before.... not to mention exhaust jobs, maintenence, etc, etc.. anything you need, i can give you the correct merc # for it...
*begin marine mechanic ramble*
that should have the combo mechanical low pressure fuel pump that is driven inside the raw pump.. weird setup.. they only ran it for a couple yr's till they changed that fuel system to 2 electrics, etc... they actually don't work bad, but a couple of things.. that unit has a sight plug that access's the closed oil resevoir to lube the pump lobe.. it takes the merc gear oil in it... just be sure it has enough oil, as it is a closed system and rarely checked.... and one of the "fails" for that setup is just that, diaphram goes bad, fills that cavity with fuel.. but usually that setup just likes it's impeller maintenence, like any other raw pump... we recommend replacing it every other yr, but 3 is usually fine too... your discretion... all depends on the boats usage, sand intake, etc... freshwater will help longevity..
sorry if i missed it, but what Bravo was on the back again?
i'll look the number up tomorrow, but i know the motor pretty well.. I've done a few long block jobs with that mill before.... not to mention exhaust jobs, maintenence, etc, etc.. anything you need, i can give you the correct merc # for it...
*begin marine mechanic ramble*
that should have the combo mechanical low pressure fuel pump that is driven inside the raw pump.. weird setup.. they only ran it for a couple yr's till they changed that fuel system to 2 electrics, etc... they actually don't work bad, but a couple of things.. that unit has a sight plug that access's the closed oil resevoir to lube the pump lobe.. it takes the merc gear oil in it... just be sure it has enough oil, as it is a closed system and rarely checked.... and one of the "fails" for that setup is just that, diaphram goes bad, fills that cavity with fuel.. but usually that setup just likes it's impeller maintenence, like any other raw pump... we recommend replacing it every other yr, but 3 is usually fine too... your discretion... all depends on the boats usage, sand intake, etc... freshwater will help longevity..
sorry if i missed it, but what Bravo was on the back again?
oh, and you are very lucky those merc #'s are even showing up... well, actually, that was a sticker app that worked ok for them nd they hold up decent.. think it's cuz it's on metal.. the Formula PC i have with twin those in it, his stickers are good too.. but Merc is ABSOLUTELY notorious for those serial # disappearing after a couple yr's, and at that point, yes, you are checking the merc block tag..
think i mentioned, it's on the stb side, back where the bellhousing bolts up.. you can usaully see it behind the manifold, in front of the exhaust yoke (the "Y" shaped piece)... that one is stamped on an alum plate riveted to the block.. something about that graphite printing deal, most merc apps where they put it on tha air cleaner cover, flame arrestors, etc, you can never read..
thank god for boroscopes!
think i mentioned, it's on the stb side, back where the bellhousing bolts up.. you can usaully see it behind the manifold, in front of the exhaust yoke (the "Y" shaped piece)... that one is stamped on an alum plate riveted to the block.. something about that graphite printing deal, most merc apps where they put it on tha air cleaner cover, flame arrestors, etc, you can never read..
thank god for boroscopes!
oh, and i forgot.. this is the Soundown stuff we usually run..
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=11868
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=11868
That looks perfect. Thanks for the tip.
I'm running the bravo 1 setup.
Was trying to figure out what the deal was with that fuel pump. Changed the impeller the second i got it after a few longer videos of it running dry.
Does any water stick aroudn in that setup when teh block is drained? Will be winterizing with coolant, but for now, i'm in and out of freeze temps.
Drained block drains, manifold drains, pulled the big hose between tstat and water pump, and cleared the fluid cooler hoses. Also running a 75w light in the bilge, and will be stepping up to a couple 125w's at night. Only seeing temps in teh mid 20's, but could drop lower next week. 2 more good weekends on the water before i give up and winterize for good!
sure does... it's a Bravo, and that's the lowest part of the system.... if you left it in the water, it would be constantly gravity fed from the transom water tube... you'd be ok for a while with the plastic body on that pump as long as it isn't stoopid cold.. ... you could just yank the feed to it when you drain the block...
keep in mind, i deal with saltwater, not fresh, so my freeze point is a bit different.. and the salt water tends to slush up a bit first, as opposed to a real "hard" freeze like fresh will get...
the newer stuff all has a 1-point drain system... 1 blue plug at the front in the system and it drains everything... convoluted plumbing, but nice to winterize.....
did that motor have blue merc drain plugs, or where you pulling hoses and
NPT plugs?
it shouldn't have blue plugs, if it does, it's been retro-fit... if not, you may want to do that down the road, makes it a bit easier at the block and bottom of the manifolds...
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oh, i forgot... keep in mind, you can suck antifreeze thru that drive if need be (the intakes are the line of holes on the lower) after draining most of it.... bravo's can be tough, gotta have good tight muffs, a 5 gallon bucket up high with a short feed to the muffs... being a bravo you generally wanna goose the heck out of it when you start it up to get the pump to suck antifreeze... some bravo's have trouble doing this tho depending on how thick the AF is and pump body it has... the merc bronze bodies are notorious for it... just gotta watch the bucket and make sure it's taking it...
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Boat is out of the water. On the fuel pump, I drained the raw water pump via Hose removal. Does that tend to get all the water out of the fuel pump?
I have blue plugs on the manifolds, but it came with brass plus in some small adapter things on the block drains. Assuming they used to be blue plugs. Planning to put petcock drain things on the block drains.
Those are the only drain points I found before removing hoses. Are there other good Npt drain points?
On the antifreeze deal, I’m definitely planning to do that. Just hoping to do it once, not each time I pull it out during this time of the season.
What style throttle/shift cables do I have? How are those compatible with the newer stuff? Unfortunately, my shifter doesn’t have a neutral lock button, so I can’t rev it in neutral. Well, without just pulling in the throttle linkage at the motor.
Was hoping to find a newer compatible used stock shifter and swap mine out. Just need to understand what cable setup I have and what is a compatible swap. Eventually, I’d like a fancy shift and throttle setup, but a newer stock setup would be an upgrade for now.
I have blue plugs on the manifolds, but it came with brass plus in some small adapter things on the block drains. Assuming they used to be blue plugs. Planning to put petcock drain things on the block drains.
Those are the only drain points I found before removing hoses. Are there other good Npt drain points?
On the antifreeze deal, I’m definitely planning to do that. Just hoping to do it once, not each time I pull it out during this time of the season.
What style throttle/shift cables do I have? How are those compatible with the newer stuff? Unfortunately, my shifter doesn’t have a neutral lock button, so I can’t rev it in neutral. Well, without just pulling in the throttle linkage at the motor.
Was hoping to find a newer compatible used stock shifter and swap mine out. Just need to understand what cable setup I have and what is a compatible swap. Eventually, I’d like a fancy shift and throttle setup, but a newer stock setup would be an upgrade for now.
