the fuel pump is a complete separate section from the raw pump, pulling the bottom hose to the back of the pump does all you need....
i'd be curious to know what adapter is in the block.. those blue plugs are straight thread, thus the O-ring on them.... holla if you want the merc #'s for any of that... i'd be inclined to keep a blue plug setup, but i'm saltwater... it tends to crust up petcocks...
that shifter should have a "neutral only" feature.. you push the button at the center of the bottom round part and push the shifter forward.. some are hard to tell they are even a button... it should be operating the throttle only.... you'll feel it, it moves a bit easier and it doesn't have the detent going into gear..
all bravo shift assemblies are the same... a 2015 mechanical control head would hook right up to that motor... and sure, if you wanted to change the control head out at some point to something different, they make cables that go from the merc shift assembly up to various cable end configs to fit any control head......
the cables are standard "morse style"... teleflex, Sierra, couple other companies are the major suppliers.. and they aren't overly expensive.. yours will be short too, so prolly $35 or so... it will have the length printed on the sheath back a foot or 2 from one end.. usually the stoooopid boat builders put it up by the shifter, making it harder to spy.. that's a crapshoot.... you give me the full # and i'll tell you exactly what it is in my Kellogg book... they are often hard to read tho... even than, i can tell what "model" they are by the ends, than you just measure em...
stainless bravo props can be "tweaked" some, but it's pretty rare that is needed... same for the alums... as long as the mill is running right, getting all it's r's, boat is trimmed properly, the factory prop "should" perform correctly.. most of the time, the hull engineers do a pretty good job of tuning pitch/diameter to their hull..
those are the 2 main factor, diameter and pitch... and that is balanced between how well it'll get out of the hole vs top end... but the only thing a prop shop can do would be add/or take out a bit of cup (the curve of the blades)... i forget exactly how the cup effects em.. I don't do prop engineering, not my gig.. my 3 bosses know a ton more than me on the whole "prop theory" end of things... putting whatever on/off, that's my job...
i would leave prop work (meaning a swap) till you feel you have too.. it can be a bit of a "voodoo guess" thing at times, I have seen mistake made by various people running the wrong props, or switching to a worse prop... i've seen guys drop 5 hundy and be worse off... but my boss does keep a few different ones around for verifying what prop is right for any bravo/alpha boat in question.. inboards? that ain't happening!
always remember, make sure that mill is running top notch and if you get 4600 out of it, that'll be pretty good...
oh, on that note, another question... what hr's are on the motor, and what yr was it again?
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