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97 King Cab DS-Ton build - Rock Jock 60 and shaved 14

Overview Gallery Discussion
I got it out in the dirt yesterday for a quick shakedown run at the lake. Everything was great offroad, but it's on-road handling needs some work.

Here's two happy dogs and the tires in the dirt for the first time:

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Checking tire clearance, I need to do some trimming, but I think it will be OK for now:

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The S-10 in its natural habitat:
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Awesome update! Never thought I'd say this but those tires actually look small on that S10, I'm digging it:waytogo:
 
I fixed a couple small things on the S-10 and decided last minute to go camping at our spot on the Gila last night. I wasn't sure what the weather was going to be like there, but it turned out to be a nice evening and it actually got a bit cold at night.
The truck worked great, I did look at the steering to figure out where the slop was, and I think it's just the heims on my drag link and panhard. I'm going to order new ones and swap them out, I couldn't see any slop in the box itself, so I think it's OK.

Here's some shots from our campsite:

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Jimmy Jack's servo steering had a gnarly shudder at low speeds that was due to slack in the cable system.
 
Stephen said:
Jimmy Jack's servo steering had a gnarly shudder at low speeds that was due to slack in the cable system.
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Yes, I saw that when you guys were pulling into your pits after pre-running. Looked crazy.

I'll get the new heims installed this weekend and I bet that clears up 80% of the issue. Even how it is now, I bet it's more stable than a full hydro rig. The problem gets worse with speed (on asphalt), especially high speed corners on asphalt. Most of my complaints are from 60+mph driving on old repaired rough asphalt.
 
New heims and I adjusted the steering box to take out the play. Everything seems much improved now. I also double checked the caster and it's dead on at 6°. It still doesn't return to center very well, but I can live with that.
 
I drove it some more on the highway this weekend and I'm still not happy with the way it handles. I played around with tire pressure a bit and that didn't help.

I double checked my alignment and I'm sitting right at 6° caster and 1/4" toe in, but it grabs every little line, paint stripe and groove on the road. I've never had a vehicle do this so bad and it's always something I've associated with excessive toe out. Any alignment gurus out there that can shed some light on this? I had the same alignment on my old axles and it drove straight and true.
 
Did you use the Reid bronze bushings in the king pins? I put them in mine earlier this year and I fee like it made the steering different. To me it's like there's no forgiveness - for lack of a better description. The knuckles are tight so it seems anytime the tires change direction, even just a little, they will stay pointed that way and you have to move them back. Kinda like the lack of return to center you mention.

I think it has gotten better over time, but still different from when I just had the regular plastic bushings. Actually I don't know if it's gotten better or if I have just gotten used to it.

I had a shop check my alignment so that shouldn't be causing my troubles.
 
mrk5 said:
Did you use the Reid bronze bushings in the king pins? I put them in mine earlier this year and I fee like it made the steering different. To me it's like there's no forgiveness - for lack of a better description. The knuckles are tight so it seems anytime the tires change direction, even just a little, they will stay pointed that way and you have to move them back. Kinda like the lack of return to center you mention.

I think it has gotten better over time, but still different from when I just had the regular plastic bushings. Actually I don't know if it's gotten better or if I have just gotten used to it.

I had a shop check my alignment so that shouldn't be causing my troubles.
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I did put in the bronze bushings. The steering is smooth though, I adjusted them while I was working on everything Saturday. I could try swapping in the nylon bushings, I have a set laying around.
 
I don't know if that's what's causing your problem, but I definitely noticed the difference in mine when that was the only thing I changed. Your lack of return to center is what made me think of it.
 
mrk5 said:
I don't know if that's what's causing your problem, but I definitely noticed the difference in mine when that was the only thing I changed. Your lack of return to center is what made me think of it.
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I spent a bit of time on the phone with Stephen and I've got an e-mail out to Sweet Mfg. I'm thinking a combo of swapping in the nylon bushings and putting a lighter torsion bar into the sweet valve will help significantly.
 
When we set the bronze bushings in the car we ended up with very little preload on them to keep the steering force down. Basically if we could move the knuckle by hand it was good, granted it was hard to move it but it was possible. Then they would seat in a bit and be good. Might just need a bit less preload on the bushing.
 
miniwally said:
When we set the bronze bushings in the car we ended up with very little preload on them to keep the steering force down. Basically if we could move the knuckle by hand it was good, granted it was hard to move it but it was possible. Then they would seat in a bit and be good. Might just need a bit less preload on the bushing.
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I adjusted them on Saturday and actually tightened them up. They were so loose before that the tire and wheel would turn out due to the weight and the caster with the wheel off the ground and the tie rod disconnected. I only tightened them up enough that they wouldn't just fall on their own. Even though I tightened up the pre-load it did not seem to make the problem better or worse.
 
MNorby said:
Post #10 discusses a problem with the supplied roll pin on the bronze kingpin bushings
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gene...d-racing-bronze-kp-bushing-crane-knuckle.html
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MNorby said:
another discussion about tight bushings and roll pins
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gene...-bushings-w-new-knuckles-assembly-issues.html
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Don't know if this is Brent's problem, but it might be mine. I did a lot of reading on the bronze bushings with the Crane polyurethane spring replacement but never came across the discussions about the roll pins. I ended up removing the Crane pieces and put a spring in with the bronze bushings. It's still tight so I wonder if I should check into this issue with the roll pin.
 
mrk5 said:
Don't know if this is Brent's problem, but it might be mine. I did a lot of reading on the bronze bushings with the Crane polyurethane spring replacement but never came across the discussions about the roll pins. I ended up removing the Crane pieces and put a spring in with the bronze bushings. It's still tight so I wonder if I should check into this issue with the roll pin.
Click to expand...
The Reid bronze bushings say that they are specifically for high steer arms with king pin tension adjusters. I don't think you're supposed to use them with the springs or with spring eliminators.

I'll read through those other posts later, thanks Norby, Are you going to Blazer Bash this year?
 
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