CK5
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'98 1 ton dodge...

wait, its a dually? I missed that fact. I woudl think those woudl be cheaper......

You really want to DD a dually? I know your truck is a land yhact already, but i've never thought i'd want to DD a dually, unless i really had a good reason to.

I'd definitely pick a SRW with a manual over a dually with an auto.....
 
wait, its a dually? I missed that fact. I woudl think those woudl be cheaper......

You really want to DD a dually? I know your truck is a land yhact already, but i've never thought i'd want to DD a dually, unless i really had a good reason to.

I'd definitely pick a SRW with a manual over a dually with an auto.....


What's wrong with a dually for DD?
I whish I had one, but my friend did, he drove it to work and on week ends towed his race car trailer to the race tracks.
:D
It was actually a 88 chevy crew cab dually with the 6.2 l N/A
 
x2, do you really need a dually? i doubt it. 2 more tires to buy at an extra 150+ a each?
 
Well you didn't say it was black... that changes everything. Also would this be your DD? I've driven a dually once and it can be a PITA driving a truck with a huge ass
 
another thing to think about; mine is a 3/4 ton; granted it is the HD version with the towing and camper package, but it came with the 3.55 gears in it. a 1 ton dually will have 4.11 gears in it. i like the higher gears to keep the rpm's down and i get better mileage than either of my buddies, 1 with a 1 ton like that and another with a 1 ton SRW. i also run 285's on mine, slightly taller than stock.
 
Cool, an ext cab long bed dually for a DD, but a standard transmission is OUT of the question!!

Dodge autos are terrible, the truck you're looking at is worth HALF the price you're gonna pay. I don't care if you live in Beverly Hills, Ebay motors FTW.


No point trying to talk sense into avery

he's an indecisive guy with too much money to blow
 
thats way too much for it. I was looking at a 98 2500 24 Valve with 150K on it for $6000 and I thought that was too much.
 
Here is a good site to look at for info dieseltruckresource.co

If it is an auto they are not the stongest but they do work another thing they have problems with is there lift pumps but other than that they work good.
 
i would hold out for a better one (cheaper) or tell them your not paying over 8 grand for it.
 
Cool, an ext cab long bed dually for a DD, but a standard transmission is OUT of the question!!

Dodge autos are terrible, the truck you're looking at is worth HALF the price you're gonna pay. I don't care if you live in Beverly Hills, Ebay motors FTW.


No point trying to talk sense into avery

he's an indecisive guy with too much money to blow

what the fu(k is your problem? if someone whats to drive a dually as their daily driver but isn't interested in a manual transmission - it's his decision. he's not sitting around flaunting his money. when you look for information on certain things, people know you have money to burn, but the simple thought that he should be embarrassed to try to find information because of what it might say about his financial situation is rediculous.

no one reads shawn's work truck build thread and bitches about how much money he's spending. get a life, ass hat.
 
Wow lots of posts today...

Look guys this isn't set in stone but if I can get it for a good deal then yeah I'd rather have a dually diesel than a SRW gasser...
I don't really go that many places... basically 3 days a week I'm at school where I park in one spot and walk around all day and the other days I'm at work where I drive there and park it all day...

The only reason I'm thinking of going the dually route is because I'd like to get an older camper and restore it so I have somewhere to crash on overnight trips (which are becoming more common these days).


As far as the money comment that's pretty funny. I'm not loaded by any means. I'll tell you straight up I make $11 an hour at the machine shop. I live at home but pay for my trucks, gas, insurance, parts and anything else I want/need. I may have expensive stuff but it's not because I go out and write a check... I save up for down payments and then finance the rest.
 
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The only reason I'm thinking of going the dually route is because I'd like to get an older camper and restore it so I have somewhere to crash on overnight trips (which are becoming more common these days).


I like this idea, and woudl love to have the same project. But does that really require a dually?

Curious to see how much flexibility there is in the price, and what they'll give you for yours. If they are being A$$holes, ask them if they are interested in just trading engines +500. :D
 
It's a PITA around town... I know guys that do it and don't think anything of it but I'm not one of those guys... start and stop traffic through the super busy parts of town where I live aren't fun with a stick IMO.


dont knock it til you try it, you will get use to it, and after awhile you will begin to love shifting your own gears and in the back of your mind you be happy because you know your in control of your gears and the reliabilty is a winner.
 
I like this idea, and woudl love to have the same project. But does that really require a dually?

Curious to see how much flexibility there is in the price, and what they'll give you for yours. If they are being A$$holes, ask them if they are interested in just trading engines +500. :D

Yes, to do it right it does.

I'm curious about their flexibility as well...

Kelly Blue Book retail is only $13680. Private party value is 12k.

Yeah I looked that up the other day so I won't even chat with them unless they'll get in the $12-13k range right off the bat. I realize it's a great truck but I'm also thinking about what's easier for a lot to sell these days... a 1 ton dually extended cab or a 1 ton single rear wheel crew cab. Around here crew cabs are like gold since people seem to be ditching the whole mini-van thing in favor of crew cab trucks so I know they could sell my k3500 quickly.

Anyways they didn't even call me today so it doesn't sound like they're putting in the effort on their end. They were supposed to give me a ring with an offer on my k3500. I'll swing by tomorrow between classes and see how much they want to sell it.
 
dont knock it til you try it, you will get use to it, and after awhile you will begin to love shifting your own gears and in the back of your mind you be happy because you know your in control of your gears and the reliabilty is a winner.

Yeah my dad's dd has a built 390 with a 4 speed and he loves it... I've driven it but it seems like such a hassle for daily use...
 
Wow lots of posts today...

The only reason I'm thinking of going the dually route is because I'd like to get an older camper and restore it so I have somewhere to crash on overnight trips (which are becoming more common these days).
I call shotgun and bottom bunk.:thumb::thumb:
 
Wow lots of posts today...
As far as the money comment that's pretty funny. I'm not loaded by any means. I'll tell you straight up I make $11 an hour at the machine shop. I live at home but pay for my trucks, gas, insurance, parts and anything else I want/need. I may have expensive stuff but it's not because I go out and write a check... I save up for down payments and then finance the rest.

In that case you might want to consider what you can afford once you move out. I bought a dirtbike when I was living at home... once I moved out it was time to sell...:doah: takes alot of money to live these days.
 
thats a great truck. '98 12v are the Holy grail Dodge. Just as the '07 5.9 cummins is with the non-egr. No matter what configuration it is with the '98 12v you get the upgraded interiors, 3+4th doors, and the best of the 12v engines. And personally after owning one I'll never own another '98.5-'02 24v VP44 powered cummins.

the 47RE/RH is a fine auto. Problem is no one EVER upgraded them when they put the free power to the P7100...........what do you expect. a stock 2nd gen 12.25" clutch won't hold up to it either. so what the difference. upgrade some auto parts or upgrade the clutch.

the front ends are known to get loose on them too. i love duallys. I daily drive a crewcab 3500. well until I took it off the road to put a 12v in it :D

If you put a few$$$into the 47RH as a billet converter and valvebody, before you hurt it. It'll take a bunch of power.

As its all been said, 15,5K is too high. check the breakout screw on the AFC housing. if its intact. either the pump has never been opened, or someone went to some pains to install a new breakout screw after they fooled with it. usually no one ever puts in a new breakout. just replace it with a metric bolt.

12v will not likely have a 53 block, except if it was a late model 12v in ;98. they were ramping up 53 blocks for the 24v. the problems there is some 53 castings had too much core shift during casting, and crack in the water jacket radius on the passenger side rear @ cylinder 5 - 6. if its an auto there will be the OEM auto heat exchanger right over top of where the crack would be. wouldn't worry too much about it but check the blocksides @ the panrail height near the front of the engine on both sides. if its a 53 there will be a large "53" cast on 1 side or the other or both. not all 53 fail. actually very small % of them do. but you always hear about the ones that fail. I put 606rwhp through my 53 block for a couple years. never a whimper. and I beat the piss out of if.


the killer dowl pin is a 100% easy, need to fix on any 12v. gearcase alignment dowl falls out into the geartrain A) nothing happens and it falls into the oil pan. B) catches a gear and gets shot out the timing case cause a major oil leak from the hole. C) gets caught between 2 gears and you have a catastrophic engine failure.
 
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this was the 'KDP on my '95. was 1/4 of the way out already. bottom left of the injection pump gear, and almost directly above the cam gear. I just stake'd mine, but you can tab it off the bolt beside it. or drill and tap the gearcase to the left of it and put a long bolt in to block it. but you need a jig for that. BUT you don't have to remove the gearcase cover and do the front seal.

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If you stand at the driverside fender and look down on the injection pump. Here the top of the AFC housing, the breakout bolt is usually the front passenger side bolt. the one under the injection lines, hardest to get to sort of thing. if its a regular bolt........someone has been in there for sure. if it looks like you'd wonder how to get it out. its the breakout bolt.

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