A syncro'd 205 and auto hubs were packaged together as a "shift on the fly" type of option so they've been swapped at some point.
CK5
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98 k2500. SAS'd and bobbed.
- Thread starter TreeFarm
- Start date
I though syncro 205s were all slip yoke? Or would that depend on 1pc or 2pc rear shaft?
Also going add I'll be keeping an eye on this one. Enjoyed your first build and what you did with it.
Also going add I'll be keeping an eye on this one. Enjoyed your first build and what you did with it.
I’ve never seen a bolt on yoke version before but like you said that’s related to the 1 or 2 pc driveshaft.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
I got some work done today. I was out of town Sunday to Thursday so I told the boss I was going to stay home Friday. I got the bed off, pressure washed the rear frame, and started stripping off things. exahust is gone, fuel tank is out, rear drive shaft out, and shocks disconnected. I managed to get all the spring bolts busted loose from the sleeves.
This truck is a two piece shaft. Stock form its slip yoke at the t case, slip yoke at the carrier. I am trying to weigh the pros and cons of 1 piece vs 2 piece drive shafts. I can pull the slip yoke off the t case end and bolt it without it. That will leave my slip yoke in the middle for axle movement. I will just have to shorten the rear piece to fit. I like the idea of 2 piece because it lets me keep a flat belly as far as possible then gives a higher angle closer to the axle keeping it out of the rocks. If I go 1 piece it will be made by tom woods however they see fit. at roughly 131" wheel base I should be fine with a 1 piece considering I have one in my other truck and the stock reg cab long bed/extend cab short bed 4x4s have a one piece
Also this is approximately where the front spring hangers will end up. 24" froward and 4" down from stock. That with the ORD shackle flip should put me around 6" of lift to match where the front should end up being. My plan is to weld the spring hanger on all the way around, then weld on the gusset, and have the spring bolt go through the frame itself. I will add a drain so the gusseted area doesn't fill up with crap.
This truck is a two piece shaft. Stock form its slip yoke at the t case, slip yoke at the carrier. I am trying to weigh the pros and cons of 1 piece vs 2 piece drive shafts. I can pull the slip yoke off the t case end and bolt it without it. That will leave my slip yoke in the middle for axle movement. I will just have to shorten the rear piece to fit. I like the idea of 2 piece because it lets me keep a flat belly as far as possible then gives a higher angle closer to the axle keeping it out of the rocks. If I go 1 piece it will be made by tom woods however they see fit. at roughly 131" wheel base I should be fine with a 1 piece considering I have one in my other truck and the stock reg cab long bed/extend cab short bed 4x4s have a one piece
Also this is approximately where the front spring hangers will end up. 24" froward and 4" down from stock. That with the ORD shackle flip should put me around 6" of lift to match where the front should end up being. My plan is to weld the spring hanger on all the way around, then weld on the gusset, and have the spring bolt go through the frame itself. I will add a drain so the gusseted area doesn't fill up with crap.
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TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Its officially shorter now.
I didn't get anything done this weekend, I decided to go camping rather than work out in the heat. Today though after it cooled down I got some things done. Measured a few times. found some luckily placed symmetrical features to use as reference points to make things easier. Also the frame had a factory hole that works out to be a perfect drain hole for that area. There is a factory brake union right where I need it to hook up the brakes. Almost like the trucks came from the factory with 131" wheel bases. weird.
I got a sample can of Steel-IT coating. Supposed to be some sort of stainless steel in a can. Its weldable though so I coated the insides of the spring hanger and gusset plates with it. Looks to hold up well to the heat of welding. just some discoloration but no bubbling or pealing. Hopefully it will keep that cavity rust free for a while.
I didn't get anything done this weekend, I decided to go camping rather than work out in the heat. Today though after it cooled down I got some things done. Measured a few times. found some luckily placed symmetrical features to use as reference points to make things easier. Also the frame had a factory hole that works out to be a perfect drain hole for that area. There is a factory brake union right where I need it to hook up the brakes. Almost like the trucks came from the factory with 131" wheel bases. weird.
I got a sample can of Steel-IT coating. Supposed to be some sort of stainless steel in a can. Its weldable though so I coated the insides of the spring hanger and gusset plates with it. Looks to hold up well to the heat of welding. just some discoloration but no bubbling or pealing. Hopefully it will keep that cavity rust free for a while.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Shackle flip done. 24” cut off the rear of the frame. I want to shoot for getting another 6” off the back. It all depends on fuel tank fitment. I feel like there is so much more room to work with the wider frame on these trucks
Subscribed, loved your last build.
A flat bed would look a lot better. Right now it's gonna look like one of those Nissans with the really short bed that just doesn't look proportional.
That looks good though!
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
That was my thought since starting this build, I dont think it will be too bad. DMANbluesfreak over on Pirate4x4 took 15" out of his short bed which puts it pretty close to what I'm aiming for.
I like the way both trucks look. I vote to keep the bed.
Yep, keep the bed.
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This is what I pictured. Toyota clone!That was my thought since starting this build, I dont think it will be too bad. DMANbluesfreak over on Pirate4x4 took 15" out of his short bed which puts it pretty close to what I'm aiming for.
Go home Luke, you're drunk! lol
I wish, sadly I'm at work and not drunk at all!
I vote tube flatbed!
Liking what I'm seeing either way
Liking what I'm seeing either way
I think it will look good when your done.... I like the pirate truck, except for the axle not being centred.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Nothing exciting this weekend. It was almost 100 out for the last week so I haven’t been outside to work on it. I need to roll it into the garage to get out of the sun. I ordered my sas brackets 2 weeks ago and still not been charged yet. I’ll have to call ORD tomorrow. I bet it’s because of UA18. I did get my advanced adapter spacer to run the long input gear on my 205. Keeps me from having to notch my transmission as much and gives a bit more room to make shifters. I’m glad to see there is enough meet on the spacer to machine out some to fit the shift rail after clocking it but I can’t help but to think that If they had just centered the shift rail in the cut out it would be better
I also don’t agree with the mounting hardware they sent. I got studs and nylock nuts. The studs however don’t have any internal wrenching. So I’m sure once I try to tighten the nut the stud will tighten as well which on the non blind bolt holes will cause the stud to tighten into the case and hit the gears. It shouldn’t be a problem for me since a clocking ring will make all the holes blind but for the intended install of this part it makes no sense.
I also don’t agree with the mounting hardware they sent. I got studs and nylock nuts. The studs however don’t have any internal wrenching. So I’m sure once I try to tighten the nut the stud will tighten as well which on the non blind bolt holes will cause the stud to tighten into the case and hit the gears. It shouldn’t be a problem for me since a clocking ring will make all the holes blind but for the intended install of this part it makes no sense.
