Fck that’s a nice build.
CK5
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98 k2500. SAS'd and bobbed.
- Thread starter TreeFarm
- Start date
I like the shorty bed and thought about the Blue truck as soon as I saw yours.
I have the same AA spacer on my 205 behind my NV4500...I too thought the mounting hardware was a little dumb, but so far haven't had issues with them at all (maybe 2000 miles on the road with it)
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Well frick! ORD says I got a few more weeks of waiting to get my sas brackets. That’s going to slow things down a bit. DIY4x was questionable as to if their brackets would work with 47” springs and I can’t really find anyone who has used them.
I was planning on taking next week off of work to get most of it done. I suppose I’ll get the truck in the garage and the frame stripped so I can paint. Then sit paietenly and wait. I’m in an annoying spot of not being able to progress much until I tear down the green truck. But I don’t want to pull it apart until I’m ready to knock out building up the red truck to minimize down time.
I was planning on taking next week off of work to get most of it done. I suppose I’ll get the truck in the garage and the frame stripped so I can paint. Then sit paietenly and wait. I’m in an annoying spot of not being able to progress much until I tear down the green truck. But I don’t want to pull it apart until I’m ready to knock out building up the red truck to minimize down time.
I have 47s in my a bomb. I bet it's much alike on the front hangers. I had to trim the bushings down a little on each side to have them fit in the hangers on the front. I am otherwise completely unfamiliar with the sas parts.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
The concern would be having enough flat frame to mount their shackle hanger to
So only ORD is making a curved rear shackle hanger?
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Honestly I don’t know the details on either kit. I havent seen detailed picture of either kit. I just know that I’ve seen ORDs kit installed with 47”s. DIYs kit says it will fit online but when I called to talk to them they said they had never done it and weren’t sure it would work. Looking at their truck it looks like it might.
So basically I could cancel my ORD order and get the DIY ones which are in stock. But I may have to do fab to make them work. Or I can wait a few weeks to get a bolt in kit. Which honestly with all the other fab I have on my plate right now sounds pretty nice.
I did the ORD kit and 47's on mine, and man was it nice bolting it in instead of doing fab work.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
I got a cheap clocking ring off of eBay and cut it to fit the shifter. I then extended the cut out in my spacer so that will clear the shift rail when clocked. I’ll be using the first hole. Which brings the front output up to roughly 3” below the rear. My semi accurate measurements of the stock 241 shows the front being about 3.5” below the rear. This means I’ll be able to use the stock trans crossmember saving me some time. There is a slight profile difference between the driver side and passenger side. The driver side slopes a little less steep to allow room for the front shaft but this is an easy change.
I also have went out and bought me a basket ball. I stuffed this guy up in the bed side and pumped it up while hammering in some strategic places. I was able to pop out most of the big dent in the bed side. The wrinkles left behind will be covered up by the fender flare. It looks a ton better.
I also have went out and bought me a basket ball. I stuffed this guy up in the bed side and pumped it up while hammering in some strategic places. I was able to pop out most of the big dent in the bed side. The wrinkles left behind will be covered up by the fender flare. It looks a ton better.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
I also ordered some ORD motor mounts. After noticing that the clam shell mounts in these trucks are stepped and not flat I started measuring the ord mounts in the other truck to see if I could make them work. I would have to completely start over with them so I figured I might as well sell them whole and get some money back. I then turned to making the stock motor mounts work, I was thinking poly inserts and all that jazz. That made me remember that I left the engine side brackets on the engine when I sold it thinking I wouldn't need them. That got me digging in the garage for another pair. I tossed my other ones in my last scrap run. Long story short buying engine side brackets and poly inserts wasnt far off from just buying the ORD ones plus selling the ones I have now will cover some of the cost.
Yay for more ORD parts
Yay for more ORD parts
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That basket ball trick did wonders!
Late to the party here... I think the bed looks a little funky right now but I think it’s because the short beds are shorter behind the tires as well as in front. Pretty sure of that anyway... here’s a pic of mine to compare. I dig the look of the bed but I think it needs to be bobbed a little.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
It’s getting bobbed as much as I can. I just need to leave room for my K5 gas tank. So once I get that installed I will know how short I can go.
What is your measurement front the rear of the wheel well to the back of the bed
Here ya go.
If it’s getting bobbed keep the bed for sure! That was my original plan with my dodge crawler when I built it.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Here ya go.
View attachment 270708
View attachment 270709
Mine is 26" behind the wheels. So with the planned 6" removal it will put me roughly where yours is. We will see how much shorter I can go.
I got some nasty food poisoning over the weekend and couldn't get out of bed. Today was the first day I felt up to doing any work. I needed to get something done on the truck since I'm just sitting here waiting for my SAS brackets to show up. I pulled out the huge hunk of junk they called a front diff. I also pulled out the master cylinder and ABS unit so I can start figuring plumbing for the brakes. Should be simple enough.
Rear brake line and port on the master are both 9/16" so that will be simple.
Front port on the master is 1/2" and one of the front brake lines is 1/2" so those are easy to T together. The other front brake line is 7/16" I don't know why they had to make them different sizes. Ill either reflare it with a 1/2" or just run an adapter.
Anybody have a PN or idea where to find a gm style prop valve with 9/16 and 1/2" inlets and outlets with the brake light switch on it? or should I just go with an after market adjustable proportioning valve?
Glad to see you’re back! Too bad the food poisoning had to strike, especially on a weekend.
I run the Wilwood and it has a built in switch https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIhKv9t9qn3AIVj1uGCh2wfw36EAQYASABEgIySfD_BwE
Should be able to run some adapters to make it work right?
Should be able to run some adapters to make it work right?
