TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
If only it was accurateYou have a lot of fuel
CK5
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98 k2500. SAS'd and bobbed.
- Thread starter TreeFarm
- Start date
Possibly hit E and wrapped back around after 100 miles?
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Been having some intermentint brake lights. Found the springy bit for the ground pin on the relay recessed. Pulled it out of the fuse box and bent it back. I also took the time to clean up the harness a bit now that I know it works. Tomorrow I’ll charge the A/C. Hopefully it works. I think I’m going to have to switch to a trinary switch to control my condensor fan as I’m pretty sure my ecm operating system controls the fans off of a pressure sensor that I’m not using
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
So good and bad news today. Good news, the ac system works great, 38* at the center vent with just the fans ideling in the driveway. The bad, I don’t think my pcm is capable of recognizing 12v request for AC. I’ve grounded c2 pin 55(through a cycling switch) and I’ve applied 12v to c2 pin 17 as the ac request from the dash. C2pin 43 is the output to my clutch relay. Everything is wired correct but the ecm still doesn’t see ac request. I manually commanded the clutch on with my laptop to fill and test the system. It sees the clutch engage and sees the ac enables but still no for a request. I don’t know if I should toss in a pressure sensor so it can see pressure or just scrap the idea of ecm controlled AC. I don’t think the sensor would help since it doesn’t even acknowledge the request.
I also flushed the simple green water out of the cooling system and filled with antifreeze so that’s one more thing off the list.
I also flushed the simple green water out of the cooling system and filled with antifreeze so that’s one more thing off the list.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Filled it up with gas today. 15mpg so far. That’s about 2-3 better than the green truck so I’m guessing having the overdrive helps a bit.
I ordered a trinary switch so I can manually wire up the AC system. It will just be controlled by the 12v from the dash ac button routed through a cycle switch and trinary switch to provide safeties.
Built a spare tire carrier. This bed is so small I couldn’t really put the tire anywhere good. So it’s a bit farther from the bedside than I would like. But that gives me room to mount my highlift behind it and maxtrax on top.
I ordered a trinary switch so I can manually wire up the AC system. It will just be controlled by the 12v from the dash ac button routed through a cycle switch and trinary switch to provide safeties.
Built a spare tire carrier. This bed is so small I couldn’t really put the tire anywhere good. So it’s a bit farther from the bedside than I would like. But that gives me room to mount my highlift behind it and maxtrax on top.
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TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Not much has changed over the last few weeks. I picked up a trinary switch and wired up the AC without computer control. Basically I take the 12v from the dash to trigger a relay. That relay output runs through the cycle switch, then through the trinary switch, and finally to the compressor. This gives me high and low pressure safety, and it cycles itself when the low side gets too low. The trinary switch also grounds the relay for my condensor fan to keep that cool. It all seems to work good and I’m seeing temps in the mid 30s.
I also replaced the crappy head unit that came with the truck. I put some nice speakers and amp in the truck when I built it but they sounded like crap for some reason. Then I started getting tons of alternator whine even with clean power and ground sources. I pulled the head unit and ran my phone straight to the amp and everything was awesome. New head unit and a small alpine powered sub and the stereo is finally perfect.
Other than that I pulled it apart and retorqued everything last weekend and have just been driving it. I have no complaints.
I also replaced the crappy head unit that came with the truck. I put some nice speakers and amp in the truck when I built it but they sounded like crap for some reason. Then I started getting tons of alternator whine even with clean power and ground sources. I pulled the head unit and ran my phone straight to the amp and everything was awesome. New head unit and a small alpine powered sub and the stereo is finally perfect.
Other than that I pulled it apart and retorqued everything last weekend and have just been driving it. I have no complaints.
Looking really good still!
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Finally got around to flexing it out. The rear bumpstops I built were pretty much perfect. I could stuff a little more but since my springs are so close to the frame they rub together so thats pretty much all it has. The front bumpstops need to be built but my original plan and height are going to work out. So now I just need to do it. The only real issue is the front drive shaft. I either need to limit the front droop to pretty much what you see in the the pics. I have just a tiny bit of bind in the cv. I clearanced it a tiny bit before installing it and one side has plenty of room but I guess I didn’t take enough off the other ear because that just touches. I may go down to a 9” travel shock up front as that will limit my droop to where I need it.
I’m also still fighting with my fuel gauge. The pcm sees my sending unit but I can’t get it to output to my gauge. I’m about to give up and start finding a work around. I was thinking of getting a 1997 cluster as that one doesn’t use the pcm for fuel. Either swapping the gauge internally or the whole cluster out if the wiring isn’t too different.
Another option is to pick up a scan gauge and use that as a fuel gauge since the pcm knows the fuel level. Maybe @GWeakland620 can chime in and tell me if his scan gauge can see the fuel level of his PCM or not. I dont know if it will monitor that PID.
I’m also still fighting with my fuel gauge. The pcm sees my sending unit but I can’t get it to output to my gauge. I’m about to give up and start finding a work around. I was thinking of getting a 1997 cluster as that one doesn’t use the pcm for fuel. Either swapping the gauge internally or the whole cluster out if the wiring isn’t too different.
Another option is to pick up a scan gauge and use that as a fuel gauge since the pcm knows the fuel level. Maybe @GWeakland620 can chime in and tell me if his scan gauge can see the fuel level of his PCM or not. I dont know if it will monitor that PID.
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Looks great! Is this up at the Bountiful B?
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Yep, that’s the place.
Yes the Scangauge can monitor your fuel level. It can also calculate mpg’s and fuel range.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Does it display as % full or gallons remaining ?
My diagnostic tool shows it in percentage I’m assuming that’s how the scan gauge does it as well.
Also which pillar trim was it you were needing?
Also which pillar trim was it you were needing?
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Driver side A pillar.
Excellent I’ll get one tracked down
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Aawesome. I'm heading to the local yard tomorrow for a gauge cluster. If i find one the trim piece Ill let you know so you dont have to keep looking. Also if you are looking, I need the upper and lower steering column cover piece for a manual. I only seem to find Auto ones with the big shifter hole in them.
That may be trickier to find but I’ll take a look, I know the one yard for sure has a 95+ with a 5 speed but I want to say it’s a blue interior
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
The column should still be black, at least mine is. Hell Ill spray paint a blue one black if I have to.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Welp, I'm an idiot. But the gas gauge works now so I cant be to mad. Basically everything on the internet says the fuel level goes through the PCM on 98s. Mine was indeed wired through the pcm. My sending unit measured 40-200Ohms. I never once stopped to think that my fuel gauge might actually be a 0-90 ohm gauge.
I picked up a 96 cluster from the junk yard the other day since It would have been wired directly to the sending unit. Got it home and hooked it up the 98 sending unit and realized very quickly that it is a 0-90ohm gauge. I then realized quickly that the gauge in my truck is 0-90 ohms. Now my gauge is wired directly to my sending unit and reads great. I still want to sweep the sending unit to make sure it functions throughout and reads right but it works for now.
Funny thing is I had a little voice in the back of my head saying to try hooking the gauge up directly. It would have saved me $40 for the junk yard cluster and a ton of time tuning If I had just done that.
I picked up a 96 cluster from the junk yard the other day since It would have been wired directly to the sending unit. Got it home and hooked it up the 98 sending unit and realized very quickly that it is a 0-90ohm gauge. I then realized quickly that the gauge in my truck is 0-90 ohms. Now my gauge is wired directly to my sending unit and reads great. I still want to sweep the sending unit to make sure it functions throughout and reads right but it works for now.
Funny thing is I had a little voice in the back of my head saying to try hooking the gauge up directly. It would have saved me $40 for the junk yard cluster and a ton of time tuning If I had just done that.
greatwhitez71
1/2 ton status
Very nice. Glad to see while I was off the grid this build was getting plenty of love. I dig it
