98 k2500. SAS'd and bobbed.

[F.S.F.W]

Back in business. I ended up destroying everything in the CV, so they had to replace it all. Tom Woods was really cool about it and they only charged me half price since they couldn't 100% rule out the cause being a joint failure. So it was only a $120 mistake.

View attachment 293275

That’s awesome! This has me thinking about what to do with my front shaft now. I’ll build my own for now, but $240.00 is a lot cheaper than I was thinking it would be for a custom shaft. Maybe you already said it but is the CV 1330 or 1350? Just curious.

 

[TreeFarm]

That’s awesome! This has me thinking about what to do with my front shaft now. I’ll build my own for now, but $240.00 is a lot cheaper than I was thinking it would be for a custom shaft. Maybe you already said it but is the CV 1330 or 1350? Just curious.

The whole shaft was a like $300-350 when I first had it built. I think my rear was roughly $400 but that thing is huge. With that comes their warranty. If you break a joint for other than wear and tear they will cover the damage to the shaft. This is why I got it 50% off since they couldn't say for sure it wasn't joint failure or bind. they have another warranty where you pay 20% of the shaft cost on top of your new shaft. And that will cover any trail damage for free, or something like that. The $240 was just the cost to replace CV, they reused use my old tube and slip.

My front shaft is 1310 joints. I would go bigger but I need the angle. You lose about 10 degrees going to a 1350. If I break it again I will start considering other custom options. My breakage was not a joint failure. I was in snow so there was no traction to break the joint. It was because I hit a rut in the snow and the front end popped up. When the axle fell out it bound up the CV because I need to limit droop

 

[Fastereddie]

The whole shaft was a like $300-350 when I first had it built. I think my rear was roughly $400 but that thing is huge. With that comes their warranty. If you break a joint for other than wear and tear they will cover the damage to the shaft. This is why I got it 50% off since they couldn't say for sure it wasn't joint failure or bind. they have another warranty where you pay 20% of the shaft cost on top of your new shaft. And that will cover any trail damage for free, or something like that. The $240 was just the cost to replace CV, they reused use my old tube and slip.

My front shaft is 1310 joints. I would go bigger but I need the angle. You lose about 10 degrees going to a 1350. If I break it again I will start considering other custom options. My breakage was not a joint failure. I was in snow so there was no traction to break the joint. It was because I hit a rut in the snow and the front end popped up. When the axle fell out it bound up the CV because I need to limit droop

Ooooooohhhhh, I’m tellllliiiinnnggggg!

 

[TreeFarm]

Ooooooohhhhh, I’m tellllliiiinnnggggg!

I kept insisting that I bound up the joint and that caused the failure. And the guy kept telling me that it may have been a joint failure. It wasn't until I went to pay and he said the price and the reason why it was so low did I realize why he didn't just take my word and how I was talking myself into a hole. I was just like I'll shut up now haha.

 

[F.S.F.W]

The whole shaft was a like $300-350 when I first had it built. I think my rear was roughly $400 but that thing is huge. With that comes their warranty. If you break a joint for other than wear and tear they will cover the damage to the shaft. This is why I got it 50% off since they couldn't say for sure it wasn't joint failure or bind. they have another warranty where you pay 20% of the shaft cost on top of your new shaft. And that will cover any trail damage for free, or something like that. The $240 was just the cost to replace CV, they reused use my old tube and slip.

My front shaft is 1310 joints. I would go bigger but I need the angle. You lose about 10 degrees going to a 1350. If I break it again I will start considering other custom options. My breakage was not a joint failure. I was in snow so there was no traction to break the joint. It was because I hit a rut in the snow and the front end popped up. When the axle fell out it bound up the CV because I need to limit droop

Good info! Thanks man!

 

[TreeFarm]

I think its time I lower my truck. Thinking out loud here but I only built it around 6" of lift because I already had brand new 3" springs from my last truck. Everything worked in my head and went together smooth, unfortunately I am struggling with front driveshaft angle. Between the Low pinion 60 and the clocked up 205 to keep a flat belly I am sitting just short of max operating angle at ride height. Plus I prefer to keep my trucks with the stuffed wheel well look, low and big tires.

Last time I cycled the suspension I measured out that I could keep it right on the limit with shorter shocks and minor grinding of the CV. Unfortunately I didn't write down those numbers. Now that I'm measuring more I realize that the shorter shock will get me pretty damn close to top out at ride height since I'm already so close to max angle. sitting static my shock mounts are 23" eye to eye. A 25.9" shock will put me right at the safe limit of the shaft with no room to spare, thats 3" of down travel from static. the next shorter shock is 24.3" it will give me some safety margin on the shaft, but only 1.3" of down travel.

If I drop down to a 2" spring not only will I have a lower truck. It will give me some more room for down travel before the shaft binds from ride height. I wont lose any up travel if I replace my oem style spring plates with the flat style ones. I can re make lower shock mounts to fine tune down travel with whatever of the two shocks would work better.

Anyone want to buy some 3" ez ride springs and 12" travel bilsteins? haha

 

[kgblazerfive]

Do you have a CV driveshaft in the front ?

How much for the bilsteins ?

 

[kgblazerfive]

NVM you do

 

[kgblazerfive]

You could put a High Pinon in it .........

 

[TreeFarm]

Do you have a CV driveshaft in the front ?

How much for the bilsteins ?

Yeah, I have a 1310Cv tom woods built me. They said its pretty much my best option for angle without getting stupid expensive. They could do some machining on it to get some more out of it. I could H.P. it but I don't really want to build a custom axle housing if I don't have to, but that would probably be end game. If I found a cheap bare housing I could reuse everything off this axle but gears.

How does $60 sound for the shocks? Thats a little over half off new.

 

[kgblazerfive]

1410's would give you more angle.

$60 each ?

 

[greatwhitez71]

Dang. If I wasn’t so set on 2” front leafs already those 3” would be tempting

 

[TreeFarm]

1410's would give you more angle.

$60 each ?

60 for the pair. That's the local friend price haha.

Dang. If I wasn’t so set on 2” front leafs already those 3” would be tempting

I would say buy mine anyway, but then you would probably end up like me. Using what you have rather than what you want haha. They will come with new bushings for $200 for the pair

 

[imiceman44]

60 for the pair. That's the local friend price haha.



I would say buy mine anyway, but then you would probably end up like me. Using what you have rather than what you want haha. They will come with new bushings for $200 for the pair

If you don't sell in the meantime I might get them.
I want 3" but not sure when I get back to Utah

 

[TreeFarm]

If you don't sell in the meantime I might get them.
I want 3" but not sure when I get back to Utah

Let me know when you come through and I'll let you know if I still have them.

2" springs ordered. They will be here tomorrow sometime. I also ordered spring plates from Barnes. Ill probably get the springs installed Friday after work and then get some shocks on order. After that I can start playing around with the rear spring pack to drop the rear an inch.

 

[kgblazerfive]

Interested in the shocks, but I am broke so don't hold them for me. When some money flows in my direction I will let you know. I mean Twinkie's shocks are only like 11 years old............

 

[TreeFarm]

Well, 1 inch may not sound like a lot on paper but it makes a big difference.

Standing next to the truck its noticeably lower, I like it a bit more now.

Shocks are ordered. Flat spring plates are on the way. I shouldn't have any more binding issues with the front shaft.

 

[greatwhitez71]

Would clocking the front axle a little not helped any ?

 

[sweetk30]

Yep on paper it's nothing . My plow machine build i installed a 1 inch body lift and HATED the fender gap to tire . Like you said in real time next to it is the real winner or looser .

 

[TreeFarm]

Would clocking the front axle a little not helped any ?

Yeah it would have helped a little bit. But not enough. Basically at ride height I was pretty close to maxing the shaft out. So I would have been constantly topping out the shock or strap driving around town had I limited it. Lowering it gives me a bit more room before topping out the shock. I didn't lose any up travel since im going from the thick OEM spring plates to 1/2" thick flat ones.

There is also the fact that I just wanted to lower it period. I dont really care for running more lift than I have to

I am still probably going to toss some 2* shims in there to bring the pinon angle up. I need to measure again but I'm pretty sure I am sitting at 8-10* of caster right now, so I can afford to lose some.