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99 6.5TD SAS

Few more updates!

Was able to get the PSC box installed, here's a comparison between the OE box and the new one. The PSC box has a 6 bolt top plate instead of the 4 bolt. It does feel like I've lost some steering angle though. I will hit the internal stop on the gears before hitting or getting near the stops on the D60. I used the Superlift 1104 pitman arm and the old style NWF high steer arms that came with the D60 (look exactly like the ruff stuff arms - https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R2148.html?). Do I need to look at a longer pitman and/or shorter pass side steering arm? I adjusted my alignment already and have the same gap at full lock on both driver and passenger side.
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Also, due to clearance I had switch from high steer to normal steer....realized AFTER I built a new tie rod :doah:. Was hoping I would be able to re-use my ram...no dice. So if anyone needs a 6x1.5" PSC ram, lemme know. I need to get an 8" one after the wallet has recovered a little bit. I've got some more tube and inserts, so I'll just build another tie rod and turn this one into a drag link.

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Also ordered a pinion guard...lots of things pilling up that I still need to get on installing :rotfl:
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Kinda stuck on this range of steering thing. I'm hitting the internal stops on the steering gears way before I get to where the stops on the axle were setup previously. This is both tires off the ground full lock on each side. With as long as this beast is, I would like to get more steering out of it if possible. Ideas?

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you are saying the steering box is hitting the end 1st ? Longer pitman arm ??
Steering box is indeed tapping out first. Right now I've got the superlift 1104 arm which is supposedly 6.5" center to center hole out of the box. The only longer one that I've found is WFOs version at 7". The thing I can't quite wrap my head around is why 99% of SAS build threads I've found use the exact pitman I've got with no issues. I'll measure tomorrow to be sure and the steering arm to make sure there's no shenanigans going on there.
 
Just for giggles look at the back side when at lock once.
See if anything is hitting back there :dunno:
I can't remember what I did wrong, but I had one hitting the banjo bolt on the caliper on something once.

Just a long shot.
 
Steering box is indeed tapping out first. Right now I've got the superlift 1104 arm which is supposedly 6.5" center to center hole out of the box. The only longer one that I've found is WFOs version at 7". The thing I can't quite wrap my head around is why 99% of SAS build threads I've found use the exact pitman I've got with no issues. I'll measure tomorrow to be sure and the steering arm to make sure there's no shenanigans going on there.
It’s because you took parts off Murphy. The spirit lives on to spite you. :haha:
 
Could be a bad box.
Not out of the realm of possibilities, but I hope not. It's a new PSC box.

Just for giggles look at the back side when at lock once.
See if anything is hitting back there :dunno:
I can't remember what I did wrong, but I had one hitting the banjo bolt on the caliper on something once.

Just a long shot.
Didn't find anything hitting or binding

It’s because you took parts off Murphy. The spirit lives on to spite you. :haha:

Booo.... On that note, anytime want some cursed parts :rotfl:

I was able to get one measurement today, the steering arm, and after comparing it to ORD (6 7/8") and Sky (6 5/8"), I'm almost a full inch longer than them at 7 1/2". Does anyone else have these same arms (ruff stuff and NWF look to have the same design) and can measure? Am I chasing a red herring here?

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I’ve had plenty of bad brand new PSC boxes.

With that said, can’t say I’ve ever seen my steering stops hitting before the box taps out. How many turns lock to lock?
 
Pitman arm length is more important the steering arm. How long is your pitman arm?

I don't think the steering arm will have any effect on over all travel, just leverage being able to move the knuckle.
 
Just an off chance thing here.... But are you sure you received the correct box?
 
I’ve had plenty of bad brand new PSC boxes.

With that said, can’t say I’ve ever seen my steering stops hitting before the box taps out. How many turns lock to lock?
Pretty sure it was about 3.5 turns lock to lock. I could be chasing a non existent problem here and this is just the range of steering I get now. I just could have sworn I had more with the factory box. And this feels like a lot of space left where the steering stops are on the knuckles.
Pitman arm length is more important the steering arm. How long is your pitman arm?

I don't think the steering arm will have any effect on over all travel, just leverage being able to move the knuckle.
Finally got around to checking this and here's what I got. Not sure if all the pitman arm retailers source from the same place, but I don't see any superlift or 1104 markings, just the eagle emblem, M113, and OFD400A. At the end of the day it doesn't matter, looks like a 6.5" throw and a 3" drop.

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Just an off chance thing here.... But are you sure you received the correct box?
Yeah, PSC originally sent out the non assist box, so I called and verified the right one for my setup.
 
3.5 turns is pretty standard.
Being a 2wd box pitman, there are possible donors all over the wrecking yard.

stock 4x4 pitman is 5.5" center to center
 
@72gmck5 sent me the measurements of his pitman, steering arm, and steering stop at full lock and the only difference was the steering arm. I ordered a 5/8 bit and reamer and am going to attempt to redrill my arm at 6.5 inches.
 
I was wondering what difference the 3" drop compared to the normal drop. I would expect the center to center on the drop pitman to be shorter than the normal. I have no evidence, but looking at the 2 it appears the mfr just bent a normal drop.
Maybe the normal drop would work for your application, if it clears the frame
 
Been a minute since updating, life's been a little crazy. I dropped the whole steering range for now and have just been driving the burb and loving it. Just got a new 1.75x8 PSC assist ram and daily driving is much better as the bump steer and axle sway is pretty much gone now.

Still need a few things to be off road ready (biggest being a front driveshaft still) but we're working to get there.

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Jeez...it's been 2 years since my last post... She's been awesome and get's tons of head turns. My intake and exhaust temps have been quite a bit higher than I like, so I decided to plump down some cash for a custom air-to-water intercooler. While it was being built I decided it was time for some much needed maintenance as it was leaking oil out of every seal, only to discover there was very little compression when my brother and I were pulling it to reseal..... SO IT'S BUILD TIME!

Found some shenanigans - someone had either ordered a N/A optimizer when the motor was replaced back in 2010 or they swapped out the heads for the N/A square pre-cup versions. The current heads are cracked between the valves on every cylinder, so they're getting replaced. Got the motor completely broken down and found no cracking in the webs where it is typical for these to crack. Plan is as follows:
  • Send block and rotating assembly off for line hone, bore check, MLS prep, balancing, and fire-ring
  • 1.6:1 rockers
  • ARP main studs and ARP 2000 head studs (side note - anyone need 6.5 ARP 8740 studs, I have a set that I never got around to installing and am upgrading)
  • Quadstar Beast DS4 IP
  • Gapless rings
  • ProMaxx heads
I already have an S54 Quadstar turbo, but this build is in anticipation of a bigger turbo, and the intercooler just got here.

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Parts starting to come in, need to finish cleaning this block so I can load it up and take it to the machine shop.

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Block is at the machinist, going to need a .020 bore so pistons are in the process of being ordered, just waiting on a quote for ceramic coated ones. Deck just needed some surfacing, so a standard MLS head gasket is on the way so they can fire ring the deck while we wait.
 

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