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The one thing that is starting to bug me with all of this tie-in, is the frame. I do believe that it will end up being the weak link in the whole puzzle.

This may be the understatement of the year on this board. Holy Moly!!

I will say it is quite nicely done, especially with you're limited array of tools.

I wonder however, if you have added so much weight as to make the performance suffer tremendously. There comes a point of diminishing returns.

Just being the devil's advocate here.

Later,
buddy
 
I hear ya, Buddy. She isn't going to be a ballerina, that's for sure. I guess the only thing that I can think of that is really overboard is the .250 wall sliders. Those things are pretty beefy. Maybe, just maybe, they're are a couple more things on the over built side too...:rolleyes: :D

I haven't worked on the rig for three weeks now. A break away from the project was needed. I didn't want to keep pushing forward, just to move backwards.

Now, if I was installing a tired 350 back in, I'd be a little more worried. But, I have a lot of faith in the engine that Scott (4x4High) had built up. Hopes are that I shouldn't ever have the feeling that the engine just doesn't have enough power.



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The last three weeks have been great though. It was pretty much a prep for the guys annual 4 day, snow camping trip. Getting rigs ready, camping stuff and whatnot.

Here is a pic from yesterday on our way out. The CUCV lost the transmission on one of the trails. We had to pull it close to camp, up and down some good trails. Well, on one of them he got a little close, wrapped the strap around the axle and tore the brake line off, running into the back of the 1st gen leaving the need for a new tail gate. Now we were about 17 miles in and needed to get it out to the start of the trail head. The Dodge pulled the CUCV up the hills and the 1st gen with a 465 was the brake on the down hills. It made for a interesting last day.:whistle:


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That sucks! Just one more reason I'll never go back to an auto trans. Glad you still had a good times even with that much of a game changer in there. So you put the lift on the cucv, are YOU gonna have to put the new trans in too?
 
So you put the lift on the cucv, are YOU gonna have to put the new trans in too?

The lift was easy. Something that he picked up from a local 4x4 shop. I had visions of a shackle flip, blah, blah, blah, that never happened. He got to the 4x4 shop and they talked him out of re-creating the wheel. :haha:

The trans....yeah,:doah: I'm going to pick up the truck tonight and bring it back to my house. I offered $500 for the entire rig out in the woods, he just wouldn't bite though...:haha:
 
Maybe next time... You're gonna make hime get dirty and buy beers at least right? Wish I was closer man, I'd help out:thumb:
 
Um Yeah.....

620Lbs torque peak at 2500RPM should move any amount of extra weight you add with sliders or a cage.

The only challenge is trying to keep that engine from letting all the smoke out of your rear tires every time you drive it.


-G
 
Um Yeah.....

620Lbs torque peak at 2500RPM should move any amount of extra weight you add with sliders or a cage.

The only challenge is trying to keep that engine from letting all the smoke out of your rear tires every time you drive it.


-G


I was hoping you'd chime in and say that I'm still all good with the extra weight...:waytogo: :haha:
 
Oh, he'll be buying some beers, that is for sure. I wish you were closer too. I'd hand you as many beers as you'd need to get it done for me/us. :pimp:

Once I get going I'm a workhorse!!!

Sounds like you're gonna end up on the light side with that motor in there....

swampers weigh a ton and if you're constantly burning them off you'll be lighter right?:saweet::screwy:
 
swampers weigh a ton and if you're constantly burning them off you'll be lighter right?:saweet::screwy:


Oh, I defiantly won't be running swampers on this thing. I'm still all screwy with what tire I want to run. I have 16" rims, so that narrows the selection down a ton. I'm still leaning towards that 39.5x 16.5 PB radials, but I think that it will be too much tire. KM2's don't come in 16, or do MT's. I might need to sell all of it and start over. These were just some rollers that I bought for cheap at the start of the build. Maybe the 39 Irok's in the radial form. They come in 13.5 though. I'd like to run a 15.5 at least. Maybe not though..:dunno:





See, still all screwy....:haha:
 
So picky:rolleyes:

I plan to switch to some H2's and corresponding 17" tires down the road. 15" and 16" are just getting hard to come by. If you don't have the tires you want yet, now might be a darn good time to pick some bigger rims that you want. Just some food for thought.
 
If you're not already married to a set of wheels you like, definitely go 17" from the start.

15" and 16" are just not going to have the manufacturer support like they used to.


I can't bring myself to go any larger than 17"..... just starts to feel like a "Bro Truck" at that point. My ultimate would be to have a set of custom steel wheels made up in a 17" diameter that will allow me to run stock hubcaps. That way I can hide the 8-lug and CTIS stuff and everyone will think I'm still stock. :)


-G
 
If you're not already married to a set of wheels you like, definitely go 17" from the start.

15" and 16" are just not going to have the manufacturer support like they used to.


I can't bring myself to go any larger than 17"..... just starts to feel like a "Bro Truck" at that point. My ultimate would be to have a set of custom steel wheels made up in a 17" diameter that will allow me to run stock hubcaps. That way I can hide the 8-lug and CTIS stuff and everyone will think I'm still stock. :)


-G

Yeah Greg, your truck looks super stock:rolleyes::haha: It is a sweet idea though. I like all the recent talk of the stock-looking steelies. I've always loved the look of stock rally's with beauty rings.

I have to agree with the "bro truck" feel also. 17's with larger tires looks very good in my opinion.:waytogo:
 
So picky:rolleyes:

I plan to switch to some H2's and corresponding 17" tires down the road. 15" and 16" are just getting hard to come by. If you don't have the tires you want yet, now might be a darn good time to pick some bigger rims that you want. Just some food for thought.


Can't do it...I know I'm in the minority on this, but I just can't do the h2's on a first gen. Just too blingy for me. If I went that route, some TWF h1's would be cool.

If you're not already married to a set of wheels you like, definitely go 17" from the start.

15" and 16" are just not going to have the manufacturer support like they used to.


I can't bring myself to go any larger than 17"..... just starts to feel like a "Bro Truck" at that point. My ultimate would be to have a set of custom steel wheels made up in a 17" diameter that will allow me to run stock hubcaps. That way I can hide the 8-lug and CTIS stuff and everyone will think I'm still stock. :)


-G

I wouldn't or couldn't go any larger than 17" either. I had some 18" on my first d-max, after a month I felt like a bro truck. :doah:

What would you do with the steelies, Greg? Run a Staun beadlock in them. I've read a bunch on those and they just don't get great reviews. I like the look of the old Rockcrushers that I have, but it's a pain, like you said on the tire size. There just not out there for the 15 and 16's.


Oh, and I don't think hiding the 32 lug nuts on your rig, will have anybody fooled that it's not stock. Especially when you have a 5 gallon bucket+ worth of space, between your axle and the ground.....:haha:
 
I ran a set of the TireLocs (precursor to the Staun) and never had an issue with them on my 16.5s.... the only issue I could imagine people complaining about is the hassle about getting them installed properly in the first place. I ran 4psi on the tire and about 25psi in the beadlock and never had an issue.

This next time around, I don't think I will even bother with beadlocks. Being able to "air down" on demand with the CTIS kind of negates most of the beadlock concerns. I can run at something reasonable (like 15psi) on the trails and then only air-down when I get to an obstacle where more traction is necessary.....once I get through, I can just hit the button and go back to 15psi again.

Failing that, I can re-use my 16.5" TireLocs on the 17's....the extra 1/4" diameter (per side) won't make any appreciable difference.

-G
 
This next time around, I don't think I will even bother with beadlocks. Being able to "air down" on demand with the CTIS kind of negates most of the beadlock concerns. I can run at something reasonable (like 15psi) on the trails and then only air-down when I get to an obstacle where more traction is necessary.....once I get through, I can just hit the button and go back to 15psi again.



-G

Winner, Winner, Chicken dinner.... I didn't know that you were going to run this kinda of system. Truthfully, I had to look it up to see what it was. :doah: Once again, If you ever get back in the garage and get working on that thing again, it will be AWESOME...:whistle: :D
 
If you ever get back in the garage and get working on that thing again, it will be AWESOME...:whistle: :D


Still got all 5 "Garage Coupons" in my little booklet... that time is coming soon.

....all I have to do is install another 640 sq. ft of Brazilian Cherry flooring, remodel the kitchen, and do some roof repairs. Easy peasy. :whistle::haha:


-G
 
Still got all 5 "Garage Coupons" in my little booklet... that time is coming soon.

....all I have to do is install another 640 sq. ft of Brazilian Cherry flooring, remodel the kitchen, and do some roof repairs. Easy peasy. :whistle::haha:


-G

Heck, if I was closer I'd grab my bags and head over to help you plow through that stuff.

I'd even do all for free to get some more "Might as Well" updates. Without ya, I'm running out of ideas to follow and have had to do some stuff twice. :haha:
 
This next time around, I don't think I will even bother with beadlocks. Being able to "air down" on demand with the CTIS kind of negates most of the beadlock concerns. I can run at something reasonable (like 15psi) on the trails and then only air-down when I get to an obstacle where more traction is necessary.....once I get through, I can just hit the button and go back to 15psi again.
-G

I think the CTIS system is awesome, would love to have that feature on my truck, but I don't think it negates beadlocks. You still can't run as low of pressure because it doesn't matter if you only run 4 psi for 2 minutes if the bead pops off in that two minutes. I agree it reduces the chance because of less time at low psi, but I would also still be afraid to go as low as I wanted when I wanted to without beadlocks. There is a reason H1 wheels with CTIS still had beadlocks inside them.

Right now I don't have beadlocks, I really want them. I have OBA and can air up and down pretty quick (not as quick as CTIS), but even if I did have CTIS I still wouldn't drop down to 4 psi on the sand like I want to without beadlocks. Currently I run 8/10 psi and wish I could go lower, CTIS or not. Back on the road it's back up to 18/24 psi.
 
Heck, if I was closer I'd grab my bags and head over to help you plow through that stuff.

I'd even do all for free to get some more "Might as Well" updates. Without ya, I'm running out of ideas to follow and have had to do some stuff twice. :haha:


Careful..... I've been known to buy plane tickets for people who talk like that! :deal:

Hmmm, I could take a week off from work and we could knock those projects out in a hurry. By the following weekend, the only thing left to do would be sit in the garage on lawnchairs, drink beer and daydream about the "MAW" truck while it rests on it's jackstands.... :waytogo:


-G
 

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