Are the cruise parts missing?
Martin
Martin
CK5
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A bit hoppy
- Thread starter Jack Schmitt
- Start date
Jack Schmitt
Registered Member
Martin, yeah, they're gone. Even the turn signal switch that's in there now doesn't have cruise on it. I'm cool with it being gone. I just want to clear away all the extra stuff and get it down to functioning gauges and that's about it.
Jack Schmitt
Registered Member
Gotta laugh at this. I just noticed that apparently someone had an accidentally discharge in the passenger seat. LOL!
I didn't see a pool of dried blood, so nobody lost a toe. LOL!
I didn't see a pool of dried blood, so nobody lost a toe. LOL!
Before you remove the vacuum line, what transmission do you have?
Some of the early 700r4 used vacuum
Some of the early 700r4 used vacuum
Jack Schmitt
Registered Member
Wes, it took a little research, but I found that I have the th350. It does have the vacuum line to the modulator hooked up. I followed this other line through the firewall and to the break switch.
I'm pretty sure this K5 had a 700r4 originally though. It had the other vacuum switches from one. I'm taking those out in this cleanup though since they don't do anything anymore. It feels good to clean out the unused stuff and simplify under the hood.
That's right I forgot we established you had ath350.
Jack Schmitt
Registered Member
Yes, and that was extremely helpful. I installed a new modulator, and fixed the TV cable bracket. And most importantly, I was able to stop worrying about those other switches that were for the 700r.
But since I've got this thing all apart still, I haven't gotten to see how well it shifts now. I also have to change the fluid in the transfer case and check if the 4WD works.
I'm trying to clean and pretty this thing up as I go, so its going slowly. LOL
Jack Schmitt
Registered Member
Has anyone tried these aftermarket seats? I'm in need of 2 front seats and the center console and I'm wondering if there is an less expensive way.
Jack Schmitt
Registered Member
Just posting more pics of where it's at right now. It's tore up from the floor up.
Jack Schmitt
Registered Member
If anyone by chance recognizes what vehicle this seat came from please let me know. They were in the K5 but not original and I'm trying to find new upholstery.
Jack Schmitt
Registered Member
Well, I've made some real progress on the mechanics and drivablility of my 85 K5. Since it was some of you that helped me make that progress I figured I'd give an update.
Things I've learned are that this K5 has a Goodwrench crate 350 made in Mexico. Not a "performance motor" but a good solid motor to work with. So I'm happy with that. It came with an edelbrock performer intake and 1405 carb. I added some headers and a new exhaust system from Sumit Racing. I also switched to an aluminum radiator with electric fans and got rid of the fan on the motor. So without rebuilding the motor I've done some things that have given me quite a bit more power than when I got it. Also the previous owner didn't have the plug wires correct to the distributor. I decided to get a new distributor, plug wires and plugs. I set the timing and leaned out tye carb slightly and this thing is running awesome. Changed the diff fluids and while changing the fluid in the transfer case I noticed it had the common leak from the bushing on the output. Changed that bushing and filled the case back up. Also determine (again with help from this group) that instead of the original 400R it has a th350. So just to be sure I changed the vacuum modulator. Put new leafs on the front and 4 new Tough Country shocks on it. The front brakes were rusted shut when I got it, so it got new front brakes and front brake lines.
This thing was leaking oil around the pan and the valve covers and it had built up a layer of crud pretty much everywhere. So I took a lot of it apart and scraped, cleaned and repainted almost everything. New gaskets, new water pump, etc., etc..
Long and short of it is this thing runs and drives awesome now! The engine bay looks way cleaner and more respectable. LOL.
Now ill be moving on to the beautification part. It had 6 bullet holes in the floorboards and some rust holes here and there. I did my best welding (amateur) but it luckily only needed welding where it won't be visible. I'm trying bondo for the first time ever and have already learned some lessons about the amount of hardener to use. LOL
I'm going to paint all the trim, including the bumpers and door handles, black. So if anyone has some ideas for the best way to make it stick I'm looking for advice. I painted 2 of my wheels black with self etching primer, wheel paint and clear cost and they turned out pretty good. That saves me a lot vs buying black rims.
I've attached some pics.
Things I've learned are that this K5 has a Goodwrench crate 350 made in Mexico. Not a "performance motor" but a good solid motor to work with. So I'm happy with that. It came with an edelbrock performer intake and 1405 carb. I added some headers and a new exhaust system from Sumit Racing. I also switched to an aluminum radiator with electric fans and got rid of the fan on the motor. So without rebuilding the motor I've done some things that have given me quite a bit more power than when I got it. Also the previous owner didn't have the plug wires correct to the distributor. I decided to get a new distributor, plug wires and plugs. I set the timing and leaned out tye carb slightly and this thing is running awesome. Changed the diff fluids and while changing the fluid in the transfer case I noticed it had the common leak from the bushing on the output. Changed that bushing and filled the case back up. Also determine (again with help from this group) that instead of the original 400R it has a th350. So just to be sure I changed the vacuum modulator. Put new leafs on the front and 4 new Tough Country shocks on it. The front brakes were rusted shut when I got it, so it got new front brakes and front brake lines.
This thing was leaking oil around the pan and the valve covers and it had built up a layer of crud pretty much everywhere. So I took a lot of it apart and scraped, cleaned and repainted almost everything. New gaskets, new water pump, etc., etc..
Long and short of it is this thing runs and drives awesome now! The engine bay looks way cleaner and more respectable. LOL.
Now ill be moving on to the beautification part. It had 6 bullet holes in the floorboards and some rust holes here and there. I did my best welding (amateur) but it luckily only needed welding where it won't be visible. I'm trying bondo for the first time ever and have already learned some lessons about the amount of hardener to use. LOL
I'm going to paint all the trim, including the bumpers and door handles, black. So if anyone has some ideas for the best way to make it stick I'm looking for advice. I painted 2 of my wheels black with self etching primer, wheel paint and clear cost and they turned out pretty good. That saves me a lot vs buying black rims.
I've attached some pics.
Big difference. Looks good.
Jack Schmitt
Registered Member
Thanks! If the weather here in TN settles into a bit more warm then I’m gonna gear up to paint.
I’m trying hard to get a soft top but can’t get the Soft Topper company to reply to emails or call me back.
I’m trying hard to get a soft top but can’t get the Soft Topper company to reply to emails or call me back.
Do you like the way it rides with the factory type front springs?
Martin
Martin
Jack Schmitt
Registered Member
Martin, I took the original 2 leaf off because they were arched and I only had like 1 1/4” of travel before I’d hit the stopper. Someone had put lift blocks on front and back too. So I got a set of Tough Country with 3 leafs that were meant to give a 3” lift. I left the rear springs and blocks because they seemed fine. So with the 3” lift springs on the front the truck sits perfectly level. I don’t think it was my math skills, I just guessed it would and I got lucky. LOL. But to answer your question, I can’t say I’ve driven it enough to judge. It rides smooth but seems stiff when I hit the bump at the end of my driveway. I’m sure after everything breaks in it will be better though. It was recommendations from this group that got me to spend a little more for the Tuff Country vs Rough Country. I’ll just say I don’t have a reason to regret so far.
Good deal.
Martin
Martin
rampage
3/4 ton status
Bet it’s the Tough Country shocks … should’ve sprung (no pun intended) for the Bilsteins as recommended. You can check this by removing the shocks and taking it for a quick spin.
Jack Schmitt
Registered Member
Just making an update on this 85 K5. Been busy on the body work for quite some time. Paint SHOULD have been done by now but there was an issue with what I got and what I was told by Orielly’s paint store. They fired the guy who made my batch and no one could figure out what the hell he mixed to make what he gave me. Orielly’s really stood up though. I still have to sand and repaint, but they gave me everything to redo it at no cost. So I’m back in primer and excited to git’r painted. They gave me 2 quarts of 1k sealer also. I’m finding mixed feelings about it online, just in case anyone here has some experience. It looks like it may give me a nicer surface, so I’m leaning towards using it.
Did you paint it already? What happened, if you did?
Jack Schmitt
Registered Member
I did! I wanted to try a single stage paint. Guy at Orielly’s mixed up 2 quarts and a couple spray cans. When I started to paint the spray cans worked great but I couldn’t remember the proper paint/reducer mix the guy told me. I called Orielly’s and the guy who helped me had gotten fired and his replacement told me 4 to 1. I mixed at that, and being a rookie, proceeded to do the whole truck thinking maybe it would look different when it dried. Well it dried pretty gritty looking. So I mixed another batch at 50/50 like I thought I remembered the other guy telling me and damned if that didn’t lay right and look like it was supposed to!
So I go back to Orielly’s with an empty can so they could use the label as a reference to get more paint and a couple cans. I end up getting 2 cans of base coat instead of single stage and they told me another 2 quarts of what was supposedly in the can would cost $520+!!! The fist guy used wrong labels and cans, etc, so no one knew how to reproduce it. Long story short, although the guys at Orielly’s were not jerks, they just couldn’t offer me as much as I needed for free, so I wrote an email to corporate. They called next day and instead set me up with a 2 stage paint system including the sealer to go over the previous paint, 3 quarts of base, reducer and a gallon of clear. I probably should have done 2 stage from the get go but now I am anyway.
So now I’ve sanded all that and gone over it again with 2k primer and figured I’d sand it and then spray the sealer. Then of course 2-3 coats of paint and 3-4 coats of clear.
So I go back to Orielly’s with an empty can so they could use the label as a reference to get more paint and a couple cans. I end up getting 2 cans of base coat instead of single stage and they told me another 2 quarts of what was supposedly in the can would cost $520+!!! The fist guy used wrong labels and cans, etc, so no one knew how to reproduce it. Long story short, although the guys at Orielly’s were not jerks, they just couldn’t offer me as much as I needed for free, so I wrote an email to corporate. They called next day and instead set me up with a 2 stage paint system including the sealer to go over the previous paint, 3 quarts of base, reducer and a gallon of clear. I probably should have done 2 stage from the get go but now I am anyway.
So now I’ve sanded all that and gone over it again with 2k primer and figured I’d sand it and then spray the sealer. Then of course 2-3 coats of paint and 3-4 coats of clear.
