CK5
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a/c quit help please

i will i think ill have it running tomorrow , I put a little in it and it had the right pressure so i took the switch lose and jumped it and the compressor kicked on and started cooling so i know thats whats wrong. cant wait cause it been hot and muggy. in the past three days we have gotten almost 4 inches of rain. siminole has had over 10 inchs
 
well the switch works and i need to add more freon the compressor kicks on and off really fast
 
i did and i dont know what the pressure is supposed to be at. does anyone know
 
see post #8 page 1. It depends on temperature and humidity at the time you put a set of gauges on the AC. Pressure will be higher at an idle and lower as you increase the throttle, and on a hot day should not be cycling. Not an AC mechanic.
 
AC is tough without gauges to read high and low side pressures. Good call to wait till you have a set.
 
Low pressure at 80° should be about 40 PSI I think.
 
its at 50 psi at 83 deg here and still doing the same kicking on and off rapidly.
You need to get your gauges hooked up to where you can read both low and high sides. I want to say it sounds like you are still low. But, too much can also cause low side pressure to go up. That chart posted in the first page is just a vague reference. A/C systems vary widely and there is no "set" pressure that they all will show when they are at the right charge.

When I KNOW that a system is low and I'm out in the field and not in the shop, I will just use the 12oz cans and an application hose. You can tell you are close to the right charge when it's acting proper, like good cooling inside for one, a sweating or frosty dryer, and a pump that is not cycling like crazy.

When I don't know how much is in the system, I have to use gauges. I read high side pressures as that is how I can tell what is really going on. Way high pressure means too much, low pressure on the high side usually means low on freon. Older systems usually don't run real high pressures either, which is partly why the GM pancake and hot dog compressors suck for pumping R134, they don't like the higher pressure that R134 usually runs.

Airflow is also really important in these old trucks. Most just reuse the old R12 condenser when converting to 134 and it doesn't have enough condensing for R134, combine that with the crappy old school metal fans and a worn fan clutch, the results are high vent temps and high low/high pressures and why older converted vehicles don't cool well at idle yet cool right down once the vehicle is up to speed for a few minutes with heavy wind flow through the condensor.
 
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i have the newer version compressor got it when i bought my serpentine belt system from scoggin dicky.and i replace the condensor in front of the radiator , i got it at lmc
 
What serpentine system you running. In the process of going to the 1996-1998 setup, better ac pump Sanden replacement not the stock one, and can use factory 250 amp alternator.
 
the part number is 1290896, its from scoggin dickeys. but they discontinued it cause i cant even pull up a link
 
you can get it cheaper if you pull the drive off a 1990 -1996 chevy silverado. it will fit on gen 1 sbc
 
That is the old style serpentine setup. the newer one gets away from the the R4 compressor.
1996 to 1998 K1500, Suburban,Tahoe, the s10 to mid 2000. It mount the alt on passenger side and compressor on driver side. The compressor mount on top of bracket with 4 bolts.
 
thats how mine is have too look for the specific one looks like they discontinued it
 
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