@AgDieseler did some nice shock mounts for a burban.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Abusfullofnuns Suburban going long in the rear
- Thread starter Abusfullofnuns
- Start date
My burb has 63/64 on the back. The axle is in the same spot. The rear leaf mount I put the mount front holes in the rear holes and drilled the rear holes new holes. The front rear spring mount I did the same just the opposite moving the mount forward.
In the front I would do 56's they work really well on the burb. mine rides like a Caddy. I found a set of centered 56's so the axle stayed in the same spot. I then put a normal set on to get the axle away from the firewall, which with 40's you more then likely will have to also.
If you do 56's the front mount get swapped side to side the rears spring mounts stay in the same spot.
All pics are in my build thread.
In the front I would do 56's they work really well on the burb. mine rides like a Caddy. I found a set of centered 56's so the axle stayed in the same spot. I then put a normal set on to get the axle away from the firewall, which with 40's you more then likely will have to also.
If you do 56's the front mount get swapped side to side the rears spring mounts stay in the same spot.
All pics are in my build thread.
I feel like I have said this before.............
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2016
- Posts
- 1,434
- Reaction score
- 1,448
Fantastic info. I'm going to go try and find it in your build. I'm going to stick with the ORD 52's for now. Got them for a pretty good deal and I'll give them a shot.
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2016
- Posts
- 1,434
- Reaction score
- 1,448
Hmm, almost word for word. You were one of the reasons that I didn't let go of the idea of longer springs out back. Came across the deal and pulled the trigger.
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2016
- Posts
- 1,434
- Reaction score
- 1,448
Finally getting around to the suspension change out and crossover. I’ve got all the hardware and fasteners now. The ORD springs that I bought ended up being stock length fronts instead of 52s. After a drawn out PayPal dispute with a member here, we reached a settlement. Still going 64” TC springs out back, so I have somewhere around a million rivets to cut. Thinking about renting a 110v plasma to help, but unsure if it has the balls to get it done.
In the meantime, I decided to go ahead and address my rear driveshaft u-joints. Recently, I have been hearing a light ticking at slow speeds. I was pretty positive it was the joints. Me and my BFH went to work and 30 minutes later I had new joints. U-joints didn’t end up being the issue. I’m going to put it up on stands and listen for the issue, but I’m afraid it’s internal to the np208. I feel like there has been a good deal of low speed vibrations, especially in reverse. I was really sold on it being ujoints.
In the meantime, I decided to go ahead and address my rear driveshaft u-joints. Recently, I have been hearing a light ticking at slow speeds. I was pretty positive it was the joints. Me and my BFH went to work and 30 minutes later I had new joints. U-joints didn’t end up being the issue. I’m going to put it up on stands and listen for the issue, but I’m afraid it’s internal to the np208. I feel like there has been a good deal of low speed vibrations, especially in reverse. I was really sold on it being ujoints.
Sorry to hear a member here doesn’t know how to use a tape measure.
For the rivets just cut into the head of the rivet with a cut off wheel in an X pattern and use an air chisel to knock the head off.
For the rivets just cut into the head of the rivet with a cut off wheel in an X pattern and use an air chisel to knock the head off.
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2016
- Posts
- 1,434
- Reaction score
- 1,448
In the end, it was a good deal. I learned a valuable lesson, and won’t be so trusting next time. It definitely threw me for a loop while I decided what to do. I had to come to terms with changing the direction of my build slightly.
I’m not scared to grind the rivets I can get to, but some of the ones associated with the rear springs front mount are a in a tight spot. Specifically the ones around the crossmemeber that ties the mounts together. For $42 a day, I thought it might be worth it. Figured it would be less impact on my body/ears and could knock them out quicker.
I’ll be doing 1” body lift first to gain clearance for the crossmemeber to be moved forward.
I need to order a handful of 7/8” drill bits too.
Torch works really well for the rivets
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2016
- Posts
- 1,434
- Reaction score
- 1,448
That was my original plan. Between the front upper shackle mounts, the flip kit, and the 64s I have 56 rivets to smoke. I’m kind of nervous to use the torch that much. Between setting myself on fire, burning the truck down, and scarring the shit out of the frame I was losing my confidence.
Makes you feel any better that was the only thing I used on mine. Granted it wasn't all in one day but only used a torch on the rivets.
I've used my plasma to remove some of the rivets however you'll still need a air chisel or a BFH and a punch to drive the rivet out of the frame. The 1" body lift will help too.
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2016
- Posts
- 1,434
- Reaction score
- 1,448
New shoes, bad pic. Definitely will have to defang. Rides WAY better and WAY quieter.
Picked up a VHX gauge cluster from @TreeFarm
Started the Dakota Digital VHX gauge install tonight. Big mistake. I got the cluster out, and all the wires tinned, and ran the speed sensor. I moved on to install the water temp sender. The crap gauge that was already installed was put in with a janky elbow and multiple adapters. The redneck adapter broke during removal. Where I messed up was not confirming that I had the adapters included with my purchase before installing. Now I’ve got to track down an 1/8 npt to 12 mm adapter that doesn’t seem too common. Truck puked out the antifreeze and is down for the count until I can ship in a new adapter. Proper planning prevents poor performance.
Picked up a VHX gauge cluster from @TreeFarm
Started the Dakota Digital VHX gauge install tonight. Big mistake. I got the cluster out, and all the wires tinned, and ran the speed sensor. I moved on to install the water temp sender. The crap gauge that was already installed was put in with a janky elbow and multiple adapters. The redneck adapter broke during removal. Where I messed up was not confirming that I had the adapters included with my purchase before installing. Now I’ve got to track down an 1/8 npt to 12 mm adapter that doesn’t seem too common. Truck puked out the antifreeze and is down for the count until I can ship in a new adapter. Proper planning prevents poor performance.
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2016
- Posts
- 1,434
- Reaction score
- 1,448
I may make an adapter out of a 12 mm bolt tomorrow. Would prefer to use a bandsaw for shortening the 12mm bolt, and I don’t have one.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Sorry. I suppose I should have mentioned the adapters required here is the one for the coolant sensor. I doubt you will find one local though
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Auto...der-Adapter-Fitting-1-8-NPT-M12x1-5,8195.html
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Auto...der-Adapter-Fitting-1-8-NPT-M12x1-5,8195.html
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2016
- Posts
- 1,434
- Reaction score
- 1,448
I also have ordered and recieived everything I need for for the suspension and steering. The only thing I am lacking is a steering box and time. Trying to decide if I want to pony up for a psc box or just another reman.
I’ll catch up with better pics and gauge install updates tomorrow.
I’ll catch up with better pics and gauge install updates tomorrow.
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2016
- Posts
- 1,434
- Reaction score
- 1,448
Wouldn’t have been an issue if the old adapter hadn’t of snapped during removal. I would have just ordered and moved on. Autometer has one too that local parts stores can order. Just need to confirm who can get it faster. Summit offers a couple options and ships fast, so likely will be my best bet. I guess it gives me a chance to get some better buttons in too. DD should be ashamed of the trash buttons supplied.
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2016
- Posts
- 1,434
- Reaction score
- 1,448
Well.... **** it. I went ahead and ordered two expansion modules for the DD gauges. I got the OBD2 adapter and the WIdeBand adapter for my AEM.
I really wanted some other functionality and it will simplify the install. Not to mention that I don't have to order the brass adapter now.
Added functionality
Speed(will still use the transfer case source)
Tachometer
Engine Temp
Check Engine Indicator
Intake Air Temp
Transmission Temp
Ambient Air Temp
Gear Position
I really wanted some other functionality and it will simplify the install. Not to mention that I don't have to order the brass adapter now.
Added functionality
Speed(will still use the transfer case source)
Tachometer
Engine Temp
Check Engine Indicator
Intake Air Temp
Transmission Temp
Ambient Air Temp
Gear Position
I really like those Copper tires.
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2016
- Posts
- 1,434
- Reaction score
- 1,448
So far, me too. I can’t believe how quiet they are compared to km2’s that came off. I expect them to get louder as they wear. They look way more aggressive than the website pics. Probably because of the size difference from the stock photo to the 37s I got. Speaking of which they make the 35x12.5 that came off look tiny.
