What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Ac compressor advise

6872xtc said:
I bought a 7 piston to get the most CFM, which seems to be good at low rpm to help compensate for the lower rating when compared to the R4.
Click to expand...
Yes, keep in mind that all of the alternate compressors have less displacement than the R4. There are many posts about swapping fans, condesors, orifice tubes, etc seeking that "R12" performance without facing the basic fact they've swapped in a smaller compressor. Meanwhile, fixing seals on an R12 every so many years is way cheaper than "replacing everything".
 
6872xtc said:
I bought a 7 piston to get the most CFM, which seems to be good at low rpm to help compensate for the lower rating when compared to the R4.
I doubt that there is a large price difference for the 5 piston, but I never looked because of wanting more CFM.

I just looked at my previous post, which was in '21. My system is still working well as of a month ago. So that's 3.5 more years on it, with lots of time sitting.
Click to expand...
I certainly understand having more cooling efficiency, but i wonder what controls the psi, and at what point is it too much for that particular system?
 
Blue85 said:
Yes, keep in mind that all of the alternate compressors have less displacement than the R4. There are many posts about swapping fans, condesors, orifice tubes, etc seeking that "R12" performance without facing the basic fact they've swapped in a smaller compressor. Meanwhile, fixing seals on an R12 every so many years is way cheaper than "replacing everything".
Click to expand...
Good thought. Is there a chart or ? That compares cfm of compressors ? Or did i miss the boat here? It's the refrigerant efficiency?
 
imiceman44 said:
Smoke machine.
You fill the system with smoke and leaks will be very visible
Click to expand...
Cool idea !!
I was just looking that up, and saw a kit that basically continues plugs, so you can isolate individual components under pressure, vacuum or...smoke.
Funny, I've used the dye and uv light, a sniffer and it eludes us ALL (the leak) but this will hopefully put an end to this bs. ;)
 
Holey76 said:
Cool idea !!
I was just looking that up, and saw a kit that basically continues plugs, so you can isolate individual components under pressure, vacuum or...smoke.
Funny, I've used the dye and uv light, a sniffer and it eludes us ALL (the leak) but this will hopefully put an end to this bs. ;)
Click to expand...
I would probably check the evaporator first like @Wes Harden suggested, it's the last thing you didn't check.
But if that doesn't show anything, then try the smoke
 
Holey76 said:
I certainly understand having more cooling efficiency, but i wonder what controls the psi, and at what point is it too much for that particular system?
Click to expand...
From what I remember @Blue85 posting up years ago, the 7 piston is still smaller than the R4. That, combined with the cycling switch controlling it, there is no concern for the pressure in a properly functioning system.
You could add a high side cut-off switch, as was introduced in the GMT400 systems, it would just need a port to tap the switch into the high side.

The best way I have seen to test for leaks is using nitrogen and soapy water, but it's still difficult to have bubbles show at the compressor shaft seal, in my experience. And you need the evaporator case opened up to check it with bubbles.
 
6872xtc said:
From what I remember @Blue85 posting up years ago, the 7 piston is still smaller than the R4. That, combined with the cycling switch controlling it, there is no concern for the pressure in a properly functioning system.
You could add a high side cut-off switch, as was introduced in the GMT400 systems, it would just need a port to tap the switch into the high side.

The best way I have seen to test for leaks is using nitrogen and soapy water, but it's still difficult to have bubbles show at the compressor shaft seal, in my experience. And you need the evaporator case opened up to check it with bubbles.
Click to expand...
Yes nitrogen is the industry standard also because it doesn't leave any moisture behind after pressure testing.
 
imiceman44 said:
I would probably check the evaporator first like @Wes Harden suggested, it's the last thing you didn't check.
But if that doesn't show anything, then try the smoke
Click to expand...
I'll do that. I don't really want to replace the entire system $$$ but i DO enjoy the A/C :)
Now, if i can find my uv flashlight that my grandson loves so much...
 
For anyone who doesn't know this exists (like me) this could be very helpful to isolate components and vacuum/pressure test them individually.
Ebay item # 394104771786
(Sorry for doing it this way but The URL was like 3 pages....)
 
I
Holey76 said:
For anyone who doesn't know this exists (like me) this could be very helpful to isolate components and vacuum/pressure test them individually.
Ebay item # 394104771786
(Sorry for doing it this way but The URL was like 3 pages....)
Click to expand...
Like it.
I will get one once I have a job.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom