I know some rental vehicles are setup to always be in tow/haul mode everytime the key is turned on .
CK5
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Again !!! My trans just went
- Thread starter 73K5BlazerSS
- Start date
Tune it. The factory tune allows a certain percentage of clutch slippage and eventually destroys the converter lock up clutch. Get that removed and you should be good to go. That and 20k mile fluid changes. Otherwise they are really stout.
I'll admit I don't use tow haul mode enough.
You're right the factory tune seems like a bad idea for a work truck. I'll have to find someone to tune the new one. I'll move the filter and fluid service up as well. I always did around 50k.
You're right the factory tune seems like a bad idea for a work truck. I'll have to find someone to tune the new one. I'll move the filter and fluid service up as well. I always did around 50k.
Sooo... I've heard it mentioned to tune it and get rid of the converter slip a few times.
No body has mentioned how, what to use,what tuner will do it, etc....?
I'd like to know myself so I can do it.
No body has mentioned how, what to use,what tuner will do it, etc....?
I'd like to know myself so I can do it.
I do it with HP Tuners. There's a ton of resources out there to learn the program but if you don't want to spend the time or not interested then any custom tuner shop can do it for you. Some can do it remotely too if you buy whatever adapter etc.
I'd be willing to do some remote trans tuning for anyone that has HP Tuners on their end.
I'd be willing to do some remote trans tuning for anyone that has HP Tuners on their end.
Is there any hand held that will do it? (Just wondering)
HP-tuners is probably the best way to go I guess. Given the price point.
I want to change my TPMS sensor settings also.
It's what, $200 per vehicle for extra credits ?
HP-tuners is probably the best way to go I guess. Given the price point.
I want to change my TPMS sensor settings also.
It's what, $200 per vehicle for extra credits ?
HP Tuners only does engine and transmission, it doesn't do body modules or abs stuff including tpms.
A credit is $49.99. To tune a standard all-in-one PCM is usually 2 credits, which for Chevy is up through 2016. As the vehicles get separate transmission controllers, etc, you need more credits. 2017-2019 or '20 is 4 credits and the newer ones take 8! https://www.hptuners.com/vehicles/gm-tuning/. So it's about $500 to get your first vehicle tuned and about $100/each after that.
Generally, a handheld "tuner" like Bully Dog or Diablo will adjust your shifting parameters, but I doubt they will ever tell you exactly what they are doing. Most of those can remove or reduce torque management to make the truck faster, but I don't know if they can do anything to make the transmission last longer (I've never looked into it). When I google these, they're $400-$500, so it's not a cheap way out, just less learning curve.
I know this is true in V10 U-Haul trucks. I don't think it's a good solution for a regular driver, though. GM has some pretty aggressive engine braking programming for tow/haul in anything new enough to have more than 4 gears. I wouldn't want to deal with that running empty. I think you want to maintain 2 tables, but bring up some pressures, shift points, lockup behavior, etc.
What I was proposing is a toggle switch that you leave "on" as long as your trailer is hooked up (or bed is loaded) and switch "off" the rest of the time.
They make this for that cooler bypass issue .
Think I'm going to pick one up.
My other one is an '11. Is that an issue with that era also?
transgo.com
Think I'm going to pick one up.
My other one is an '11. Is that an issue with that era also?
TransGo - 6L80-CLR-BYPASS - Cooler Flow Bypass Delete Kit
An easy, no-hassle cost-effective drop-in Cooler Flow Bypass Delete Kit for General Motors 6L80, 6L90, 8L90 and Allison transmissions.
Only the 14+ trucks have the temp regulator valve. I'd look up some write ups on bypassing it, as I believe you can do it for free if you flip the plunger or something.They make this for that cooler bypass issue .
Think I'm going to pick one up.
My other one is an '11. Is that an issue with that era also?
TransGo - 6L80-CLR-BYPASS - Cooler Flow Bypass Delete Kit
An easy, no-hassle cost-effective drop-in Cooler Flow Bypass Delete Kit for General Motors 6L80, 6L90, 8L90 and Allison transmissions.
Seen this when I was looking that up. I know I get the bang into gear from park now and then.
Figured maybe the problem they're describing may be of interest to someone...
transgo.com
Figured maybe the problem they're describing may be of interest to someone...
TransGo - GM 6L45, 6L50, 6L80, 6L90 SHIFT KIT® Valve Body Repair Kit
This TransGo 6L80 SHIFT KIT® Valve Body Repair Kit fits 2006 and later General Motors and BMW vehicles equipped with the popular 6L45, 6L50, 6L80 and 6L90
Ok I got the truck back. It was vibrating above 60mph. The shop I used was pretty good last time, this time they sucked. Took a month and we're extremely grumpy. I will not bring it back and tie my truck up for another month.
So I replaced the u joints and center support bearing. Now it makes a bumping feel when starting from a dead stop. At first I had to accelerate pretty hard to get the bumpy feeling. Now It does it slightly under normal acceleration. I've taken the shaft out twice now and all the joints move very smooth and easily. The center support bearing does have some play in it, but I don't know what is normal. Obviously it has a rubber ring to provide some vibration absorption. Has anyone had these symptoms ? I'll try to upload a video of the support bearing play. Oh and I still get the vibration above 60.
View attachment 20240316_113832.mp4
So I replaced the u joints and center support bearing. Now it makes a bumping feel when starting from a dead stop. At first I had to accelerate pretty hard to get the bumpy feeling. Now It does it slightly under normal acceleration. I've taken the shaft out twice now and all the joints move very smooth and easily. The center support bearing does have some play in it, but I don't know what is normal. Obviously it has a rubber ring to provide some vibration absorption. Has anyone had these symptoms ? I'll try to upload a video of the support bearing play. Oh and I still get the vibration above 60.
View attachment 20240316_113832.mp4
A couple of thing 2 piece driveshafts are phased. that is they are balanced together, if you rotate one half they are no longer balanced. Always mark the two pieces together.
there is a polyurethane center support bearing isolator, I like those.
if your truck is lifted getting the angles right on a 2 piece can be daunting. My advise is make sure engine and t case are at factory angles, good mounts and bolted stock.
the short side of shaft factory mounting, the adjust the pinion angle to closet copy of upper long shaft angle.
your video that shaft is moving far to much. The center isolator looks used up, I am assuming it was replaced?
there is a polyurethane center support bearing isolator, I like those.
if your truck is lifted getting the angles right on a 2 piece can be daunting. My advise is make sure engine and t case are at factory angles, good mounts and bolted stock.
the short side of shaft factory mounting, the adjust the pinion angle to closet copy of upper long shaft angle.
your video that shaft is moving far to much. The center isolator looks used up, I am assuming it was replaced?
If the slip splines don't move freely, they will bind up after you come to a stop (nose down) and then accelerate (nose back up). Usually it's more of a problem with big driveshaft angles, but anytime you don't have good plastic on the splines and grease it can happen.
You might also just check all the bolts for tightness - trans mount, crossmember, bellhousing, support rods, etc. You know they've all been out recently.
You might also just check all the bolts for tightness - trans mount, crossmember, bellhousing, support rods, etc. You know they've all been out recently.
This truck is stock height. It's a 3500 dually cab chassis work truck. I agree I feel like that center support bearing is shot right out of the box. It's got about 20 miles on it.
I'll go back and get a replacement, and see if that's the problem.
I'll also check all the mounting bolts and see if the trans looks out of line. I should have just replaced it myself with a better built unit. If only time weren't an issue.
I'll go back and get a replacement, and see if that's the problem.
I'll also check all the mounting bolts and see if the trans looks out of line. I should have just replaced it myself with a better built unit. If only time weren't an issue.
The rubber isolator can be replaced w/o the bearing. Get a poly one
I never knew they had poly ones. Are they too stiff ? Do they send vibrations through the whole truck ? I'm assuming they are a softer poly than the suspension bushings.
