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Alaska Build

CoJeeper said:
So is sounds like going with the 2500 is the preferred choice for the heaver breaks and suspension. Rebuild the 350 and not worry about the diesel conversion. swap the auto to a manual going with an nv4500/241 or nv4500/atlas II for added wow factor but might be a bit over kill. change front to Dana 60's. with that is that a whole new front end or can I just swap the axles?
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Its a whole new housing. Much bigger ring and pinion and much bigger shafts. Plus the outers are a much stronger kingpin setup rather than balljoints. Dana 44s and 10 bolt fronts have their place. Its just not under a 7000# burban 100 miles in the middle of nowhere.

It sounds like you really want that atlas. The money could honestly be used in better places IMO.
 
if the 241 is going to give me what I need it is probably the way I will go. I just liked the idea of being able to switch between front wheel, rear wheel. and 4 wheel.

Like I said in the begging.. I am just getting into the whole offroad thing. so if that is just plan overkill then I am sure I could find other places to put the 2k.
 
CoJeeper said:
Thanks Wage,
The only reason I threw out the diesel was due to a conversation I had with others stating that was the way to go. Not married on the idea as I have had trouble with my 09 F250 this last week with negative degree weather.

As far as budget goes.. I have not really put anything together yet as I think that will depend on what I end up with. At a minimum I will pull the running gear and go threw them. Was going to add an Atlas II to it as I a friend had one and blew his rear drive shaft and we were able to get home. Not sure we would have been able to do that otherwise.

I will admit I am a bit green when it comes to the off roadin part of the auto world. The goal is to end up with something that can navigate the back roads and forest trails. Not going to be doing any extreme rock crawling or lifting it to the moon.
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A 1990 will have an NP241. You can buy a slip yoke eliminator for MUCH less than an Atlas. For what you are describing, and Atlas would be a huge waste of money..

Martin
 
My suggestion would be to not buy ANYTHING for a little while. Not trying to insult, but you have a lot to read/learn before you go and buy something and regret it later.

My suggestion would be a 1991 V2500 Suburban. It will have a 4L80E transmission, and an NP241 that will be just fine for what you are doing.

Martin
 
82355 said:
My suggestion would be to not buy ANYTHING for a little while. Not trying to insult, but you have a lot to read/learn before you go and buy something and regret it later.

My suggestion would be a 1991 V2500 Suburban. It will have a 4L80E transmission, and an NP241 that will be just fine for what you are doing.

Martin
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Yeah a 4l80e truck would be a good move for an auto.
 
I'd keep it fairly stockish. If something breaks 200 miles from anywhere, I wouldn't want to be dealing with a lot of custom stuff that isn't readily available from yards or parts stores.

I agree on a 91 2500 for the 4L80E.
 
82355,
No insult taken. This is why I asked in a previous post if the 2500 and the 1500 had the same frame.
I can pick up the 87 2500 for 2k and the 90 1500 for 1k. both are 4 wheel drive.
I knew the Dana 44 was not the strongest setup as I just replaced one of the axles in my 85 F250 that I use for plowing snow. If going with the 60 will require a whole new front end it might be cheaper to pick up the 1500 in the long run.

Right now I am trying to figure out what the best “base vehicle” is going to be knowing that the drive train is going to get cleaned up/replaced.

so with that said… if I go with something pre 91 I am prob looking at replacing the transmission, transfer case (not Atlas), beefing up the front end and no real gain in swapping to the 6.2 diesel.

I thank everyone with their patience with me if my questions are “basic”. Even though I have owned 2 suburban’s in the past I am primarily a Ford guy. (duck and cover J )
 
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I'd go with the 2500 and look at getting a set of CUCV axles and adding something like an ARB to the front along with beefy axles with 35 spline outers, heavy duty u-joints and some 35 spline hubs (any front locker would be good but, I am partial to having a selectable locker up front since it gives you better control off road, IMO). That would give you 4.56 gearing to compensate for some 37s, and would give you a full floating rear with a Detroit locker.

Although the 91's 4l80E is nicer for long distance highway driving (overdrive), I like the idea of a 90 and earlier "Burb since the th400 doesn't have the electronic controls to it (less electrical to go wrong), BUT better yet would be a swap to an sm465 manual!!!! While I was at it, I'd swap in an NP205 t-case in place of the 208 that comes in the 90. The extra beef of the 205 more than makes up for the expense of the swap plus, if you twin stick it, you have front wheel drive only capability just like the atlas. (though I doubt you'd ever need it) The only downside would be its only 1.99:1 low range but, the Willys is the crawling rig, right?

I'd keep the stock 350 but, if it needs some serious freshening up, I'd consider a 383 stroker long block, they put out some nice power and accept all your stock accessories.

So, this is the build I'd suggest, assuming a pretty generous budget:
3/4 ton 'Burb with 350 (or 383), th400 (or sm465), np205 (twin stick), beefed Dana 60 w/ARB, 14BFF w/Detroit. Do a 3" lift, crossover steering (maybe hydro assist), definitely weld on and bolt on steering box braces, some 37" tires (I'd say 37x12.50R17 on H2s), a bit of fender trimming, some rock sliders, a front winch bumper, a beefy rear bumper, and some skid plates- you'd be good to go!!!!! That would give you a Suburban that would roll down the highway, tow a light trail rig, and wheel all quite nicely! Whilst being VERY dependable!!!

One disclaimer though: only time I've been to Alaska was on a cruise so, I have no real clue on an Alaskan build!
 
Well my 1988 350 4 speed manual gets 13 mpg on highway. Stay with the auto it has overdrive! I will be working to try to get my mpg up on it.
 
The gain in swapping to the diesel imo is off road fuel consumption. While wheeling with gassers my needle won't move and they will have a half empty tank. I can run my truck all night idling and it only burns a few gallons. If you plan on running a lot of trails, or being off the beaten path for a few days, I would be running diesel.

I get about 16mpg with my truck pulling a lifted teardropish camper that weighs very little. Before I lifted I was getting easily over 20 mpg with 33inch swampers.

This said, I would not tow a car at highway speeds with my truck. It would be way too taxing on the little 6.2 and everyone who had to be behind me.
 
Why are you so set on buying either of these two Suburbans? Why not expand your search a little? There is no point in buying a Suburban, and then swapping a 6.2 in it. Just buy a 6.2 Suburban.

Like I said, don't buy ANYTHING until you weigh all your options.

Has anyone ever seen a 1991 V2500 with a 6.2 and a 4L80E?

Martin
 
82355 said:
Has anyone ever seen a 1991 V2500 with a 6.2 and a 4L80E?

Martin
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84cucv had one for sale


If you are not getting into serious wheeling and towing is important you may consider a newer ifs burb with the 6.5 turbo?

If you have the means you can do a solid axle swap.
 
i have the 91 2500 350/4L80E/np241 with 4.10 gears and 33" tires. if your worried about the electronics in the transmission you can always go with a manual valve body in it. i get 13mpg in town and up into the 18 range on the freeway.
 
One reason I was focused on these suburban’s is that I can get them at what I think is a reasonable cost to start building something on. I don’t see the point in spending 5-10k on a vehicle that I am going to replace a lot of stuff. This might not be the right thinking… but is what I have right now. At this time I am keep all my options open and asking questions to make sure I think of as much as possible. I have seen more burbs for sale that are a little more money, but again am I paying for something that I am going to replace? could just go down to the lot and plop down a stack of cash on a new vehicle but what’s the fun in that.

A majority of everyone does some sort of upgrade to their rigs to get them down the road whether the road is paved or not. I don’t have to do anything to whatever I go with and it should get me down the road and through the woods… just might not be as far off the beaten path… but then that is what a good pair of boots are for.

I have looked at a jeep Cherokee, ford expedition (1st gen), 2013 tacoma, 74 scout , Bronco (full size) and a Willy’s wagon.
If anyone has any other rigs that I should consider let’s throw them out. I am looking for something that has room for 4 for a long haul and some light trails.
 
CoJeeper said:
One reason I was focused on these suburban’s is that I can get them at what I think is a reasonable cost to start building something on. I don’t see the point in spending 5-10k on a vehicle that I am going to replace a lot of stuff. This might not be the right thinking… but is what I have right now. At this time I am keep all my options open and asking questions to make sure I think of as much as possible. I have seen more burbs for sale that are a little more money, but again am I paying for something that I am going to replace? could just go down to the lot and plop down a stack of cash on a new vehicle but what’s the fun in that.

A majority of everyone does some sort of upgrade to their rigs to get them down the road whether the road is paved or not. I don’t have to do anything to whatever I go with and it should get me down the road and through the woods… just might not be as far off the beaten path… but then that is what a good pair of boots are for.

I have looked at a jeep Cherokee, ford expedition (1st gen), 2013 tacoma, 74 scout , Bronco (full size) and a Willy’s wagon.
If anyone has any other rigs that I should consider let’s throw them out. I am looking for something that has room for 4 for a long haul and some light trails.
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What about a third gen Dodge Ram Power Wagon crew cab with a six speed manual? They can be tough to find but come up every once in a while, a buddy of mine just sold his. I have a fourth gen and I can assure you they are quite capable with no mods! Third gens even a little more! (10" shorter wheelbase)

Stock equipment on a Power Wagon:
AAM 9.25" front with selectable locker and 4.56 gears
AAM 10.5" rear with selectable locker (limited slip when not locked) and heavy duty axle shafts.
Electronic disconnect front swaybar
A heck of a lot of skid plates
About 2" (3rd gen) or 1" (4th gen) lift compared to standard Ram 2500 with flexier coils and flexier leaves (Deavers) and Bilstein 5100 shocks
Warn 12k winch in hidden mount in front bumper!
17x8 Aluminum wheels with an enhanced inner bead retention ring
Metric equivalent to 33" BFG all terrains

What I have added to mine so far:
rocksliders (an absolute necessity, IMHO)
2" Carli lift with 2.5" remote reservoir King shocks, rear Deavers, multi rate front coils, Heavy duty control arms, and a beefier track bar.
37x12.50R17 MTRKs

I have been quite impressed by its off road prowess both stock and modified. I wheel with a bunch of Jeep guys that have nicknamed it the "Trail Whale", LOL!

Also, the interior is VERY comfortable for 4 people and it will tow a 10k lbs.

Here's some pics on a little mogul course with my buddy driving (pretty good flex for a 3/4 ton):
photo-4_zps7aa27f83.jpg

photo-47_zpsa6e9659d.jpg

photo-3_zps3af99311.jpg


Here's an after shot of the last wheeling trip, the trails were completely red clay mud, slid down side hills bashing the bed into trees three times, had to use a buddy's rig to winch me off them, at one point it was slick enough I started sliding sideways down the trail, dang near perpendicular to my intended path of travel! :doah:
muddy_zps58b003fd.jpg
 
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