And so 2008 begins...

[jonathon]

I added a few more things to the list and changed some others around.. I'm going to go back to manifolds as with this engine, I don't think I'll get much of a gain with headers.. still going to have duals with glass packs, just need to find a muffler shop that'll do it inexpensive... the two places here in town would be between $400-$500

I also tested my speedometer cable out yesterday.. it is good and turning freely. I think the problem is the gear in the t-case.. didn't pull it out but inserting the cable it didn't feel like it was catching on anything and looking in it all I could see was an orange ring but nothing for the end of the square cable to attach to. Does this sound like the gear is the problem? Where would I get one?

As far as the gauge cluster goes.. Could I swap a working fuel gauge onto my cluster? Or would I have to use an entirely new cluster?

 

[lectric80]

Gauges can be swapped easily. there are about three screws that hold the gauge in, then it just pops out. Pretty easy to do.

As for the speedo gear, there should be something to hold that cable. I do know you can get the nylon gear from the stealership, or from many places online. You will have to pull the gear so that you know what color it is.

 

[jonathon]

Well I spoke to a nice fellow at I-5 Auto today, and he recommended lightly tapping the front of the carburetor to see if it would free up a sticking needle(which would cause the fuel bowl to over flow). He also said to check my fuel and see if it is pumping clean by disconnecting the line and cranking the engine(and my fuel pressure should be fine since it is a stock pump). If those fail.. send the carb back and get a new one I'm going to also check the screws underneath.

Now here's the question; I need to reroute my fuel from the pump to the carb because with the inline fuel filter the line sorta pinches. I thought about having it come along the outside of the alternator just infront of the head to alleviate the extreme angle for the short fuel hose to the carb since right now it is in the stock location and the metal line runs up between the block and the alternator. Is this safe to do or should I do it some other way? I thought about shortening the metal fuel line but am not sure.
​

 

[jonathon]

I haven't had a chance to do much with the carb.. tapped it as suggested and no dice, still leaks. Going to pull it tomorrow and have a look.

Coolant is leaking from around the t-stat and I've replaced the gasket TWICE now.. I think it has to do with the chrome housing

I've also got to do the tail gate....

Got all the parts(except for the regulator but I should have that soon thanks to Colby!).. question is other than the inner and outer seals is there anything else I should replace in there while I'm doing this? The carpet sash thingies the sides of the window rides on when going up and down are shot.. not sure how to go about replacing those.. I want to rebuild this gate RIGHT the first time.

 

[jonathon]

Okay, I've checked everything I can without opening the carb up(will send it back before I do that).. except for checking my fuel pressure. There could be the possibility it is getting too much...

What's the easiest way to check fuel pressure while the truck is running? What should a carb'd 305 be running at?

I know at some point something has been done to the fuel pump by a P/O.. it has red rtv all around it.

High fuel pressure would make sense.. the Edelbrock leaked pretty good.. so did the carb before that according to the guy I bought it from.

 

[xanthias]

5 psi is about right.

 

[dyeager535]

If the pump's been monkeyed with, might as well just replace it with a stock part.

From what I recall from old Chiltons, Q-jets were all over the board on pressure, from about 5-9PSI. If there is too much pressure, it WILL overcome the needle/seat pressure and overfill though.

 

[jonathon]

If the pump's been monkeyed with, might as well just replace it with a stock part.

From what I recall from old Chiltons, Q-jets were all over the board on pressure, from about 5-9PSI. If there is too much pressure, it WILL overcome the needle/seat pressure and overfill though.

Got a particular brand of pump you recommend? I was looking online and it seems the price for most of them is between $20 and $50.

 

[dyeager535]

I'm sure a Delco would be the best, short of some of the fancy aftermarket ones, but I had fine luck with parts store brands, I always bought the lifetime ones. Kinda dumb, never kept the vehicles long enough to need to use the warranty lol.

 

[jonathon]

On gmpartsdirect the fuel pump is $25.27

 

[jonathon]

Okay, it's been a while.. time for an update to my small amount of work(hey it might help someone). My fuel pressure is good as is everything else. I talked to a friend of mine who happens to work for GM as a mechanic.. he thinks it's the float level of the carb, and he offered to help me with it Going to check with I-5 auto first to make sure it won't void their warranty(I don't want to get stuck with a $300 carb that might be defective and unreturnable because I opened it up ).

I also have a line on a set of 35's with 70% tread left on them with some pretty nice 15x10 wheels.. bigger than I had planned but the price is right at $200. They'll probably sit in the barn till I can get the lift(which'll probably come sooner than expected!).

Any thoughts on the Rough Country 4" kit? I'm a college student on a tight budget and the price fits very good.. I plan to run a shackle flip in the rear. The truck I road in with 4" RC springs seemed okay(not any worse than stock), but how about the rest of the kit as far as the parts quality? Decent enough for use? Most exiting stuff it'll probably see is just running around on the woods trails here or the odd mud hole...