agreed with Roy....you can keep updating and never get to driving...you might be suprised how long they last as is....if they do break, then you have a good reason to upgrade.
CK5
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Another D60 thread! - 35 spline axles and stubs necessary?
- Thread starter Highpsi
- Start date
think those are rusty 
should see mine on plow truck in salt belt rust U.S.A
should see mine on plow truck in salt belt rust U.S.A
Right-on! This is exactly what I was thinking when I started taking my axles apart - that I need to keep focused and just get the dam things under my truck! The great thing about axle repairs too is they're nowhere near as difficult as putzing around under the hood in tight clearance conditions.
I actually took the u-joint out of the first one already and came up with a pretty easy technique for getting the rusted frozen clips out of the u-joint holders. Believe it or not, a Dremel tool is even a handy item for us to have for our big trucks! Using a tiny cut off wheel, you can get into some really tight places and make cuts you'd never dream of doing with the 4 1/2" grinder...
Just a little buzz here and there and then pound off the remaining pieces of the clip and you're ready to beat the crap out of the joint to get it out. (Frozen so bad the vise wouldn't begin to budge em!)
BTW sweetk30 -- I am in Wisconsin, so these axles I purchased locally from a guy near me bought em from another guy that had them on a plow truck. One thing's for sure here in central Wisco... The salt is a flyin during the wintertime and every time I hit the road even my beater cars beg for mercy!!
ya smack a set of joints in them and run them till thay go pop at some point way down the road.
my plow truck has a 9ft fisher on it over 900 lbs extra just in blade on front end. i have done 4wd burn outs on blacktop in snow/ice and full turn of locked wheels all with plow on the front and no snap yet.
and i am running cheep store crap joints that were in it when i got the axle close to 10 years ago . and worse yet there greasable .
my plow truck has a 9ft fisher on it over 900 lbs extra just in blade on front end. i have done 4wd burn outs on blacktop in snow/ice and full turn of locked wheels all with plow on the front and no snap yet.
and i am running cheep store crap joints that were in it when i got the axle close to 10 years ago . and worse yet there greasable .
ya smack a set of joints in them and run them till thay go pop at some point way down the road.
my plow truck has a 9ft fisher on it over 900 lbs extra just in blade on front end. i have done 4wd burn outs on blacktop in snow/ice and full turn of locked wheels all with plow on the front and no snap yet.
and i am running cheep store crap joints that were in it when i got the axle close to 10 years ago . and worse yet there greasable .
Awesome. I can understand the warnings the other folks are giving me but ultimately just getting the project finished should be my priority too.
Hey, I forgot to mention earlier that my D60 and 14FF came from a CUCV with a rear Detroit and 4.56 gears. The PO said they had "hardened joints and axles" but I don't know how much faith I have in that since he told me the D60 had a locker in it yet the dam thing is open diff...
Any truth to that about the CUCV?
I've never heard of the "hardened joints and axles" 
, the front 60 in my K30 is a CUCV unit and it was identical inside the the 60 I swapped it with, other then the ratio. IIRC some of the CUCV's had limited slip 60's and the more common ones were open (M1008 = open M1028?= limited slip ......maybe 
) but to my knowledge none were locked in the front.......afaik 
, the front 60 in my K30 is a CUCV unit and it was identical inside the the 60 I swapped it with, other then the ratio. IIRC some of the CUCV's had limited slip 60's and the more common ones were open (M1008 = open M1028?= limited slip ......maybe ) but to my knowledge none were locked in the front.......afaik
dana 60 front was open or light duty TRAC LOCK
the real strong heavy duty unit that would be the pest posi is a POWER LOCK . as close to a locker but still a posi you can get.
and i call b/s on hardened stuff.
the real strong heavy duty unit that would be the pest posi is a POWER LOCK . as close to a locker but still a posi you can get.
and i call b/s on hardened stuff.
Yea, that's what I thought about that "hardened" garbage.
I think the open diff up front was good so I can put a Spartan in it. And I've confirmed that the 14FF has a Detroit in it for sure.
Thanks again for all the help fellas.
I think the open diff up front was good so I can put a Spartan in it. And I've confirmed that the 14FF has a Detroit in it for sure.
Thanks again for all the help fellas.
I've never heard of hardened stuff from the cucv. Just run those shafts till they break, then spend the money on the big shafts. I have a power loc in my D60 that I plow with and haven't broke a shaft yet.
Okay my 2 cents.
I wheel mostly rocks. I break sometimes. My detroit survived several breaks then I lost 2 with in months of each other. One was because the hub broke. The problem with detroits lies with how the teeth mesh with each other and the type of metal used on the inside of the locker.
A grizzly uses a different tooth design and some other slight changes to help the shock loading ( its not really that its the super quick locking and unlocking and the shock loading following those 2 violent events) after a break.
I ran a Detroit for quite a while with no problem it survived probably 7 broken hubs and or stubs with one or 2 inners. The next Detroit I lost with a broken hub.
I know guys running lock rites, they seem to hold up dang good. Spartans are very similar and I know 2 guys running those with 42s neither have broken. Both would be plenty strong for what you plan to do.
So as far as the upgrade to the shafts go, run em till you break em then upgrade. I am back down to stock stubs as I broke both 35 spline stubs and the crap warn hubs that you need to run.
If there was any upgrading to be done I would skip stock 35 spline outers and go with some chro mo shafts, but in a street driven rig I would skip the high end u joints and get some spicers, most of the indestructo joints need quite a bit of care.
If trail riding is your thing and mud for the most part the need for a front locker won't be as big. I would run the stock shafts till they break, then upgrade but I would save my pennies and my dimes to drop the coin on an ARB or Zip for the front. Much nicer to have because you can always make the tight turn.
I wheel mostly rocks. I break sometimes. My detroit survived several breaks then I lost 2 with in months of each other. One was because the hub broke. The problem with detroits lies with how the teeth mesh with each other and the type of metal used on the inside of the locker.
A grizzly uses a different tooth design and some other slight changes to help the shock loading ( its not really that its the super quick locking and unlocking and the shock loading following those 2 violent events) after a break.
I ran a Detroit for quite a while with no problem it survived probably 7 broken hubs and or stubs with one or 2 inners. The next Detroit I lost with a broken hub.
I know guys running lock rites, they seem to hold up dang good. Spartans are very similar and I know 2 guys running those with 42s neither have broken. Both would be plenty strong for what you plan to do.
So as far as the upgrade to the shafts go, run em till you break em then upgrade. I am back down to stock stubs as I broke both 35 spline stubs and the crap warn hubs that you need to run.
If there was any upgrading to be done I would skip stock 35 spline outers and go with some chro mo shafts, but in a street driven rig I would skip the high end u joints and get some spicers, most of the indestructo joints need quite a bit of care.
If trail riding is your thing and mud for the most part the need for a front locker won't be as big. I would run the stock shafts till they break, then upgrade but I would save my pennies and my dimes to drop the coin on an ARB or Zip for the front. Much nicer to have because you can always make the tight turn.
I broke 4 30 spline stub shafts this summer on 38's. Three of those were with Michelin XML's, so that is a HEAVY tire. I also broke one with a 38x12.50x16.5" Swamper. Every time I broke one, it took out the lockout as well. One time I broke one and destroyed a spindle. I have the 35 spline outers, I just haven't sprung for the Yukon Lockouts yets. I would say go for the 35 spline outers. It'll be cheaper than breaking a bunch of ****. Especially because you can sell your good 30 spline outers to idiots like me who keep breaking them . . . . . .
As for having inner neck down shafts. You shouldn't if your axles are indeed from a CUCV.
Martin
As for having inner neck down shafts. You shouldn't if your axles are indeed from a CUCV.
Martin
454Sub
5/8 ton status
I dont have a 60, but i put Yukon shafts and an Alburn posi in my 10bt with 6600lbs or so of Suburban on top of it with a warmed over 454 pushing it around, and its held up, I just use cheapie warn hubs as a "fuse" of sorts, way I figure it its alot cheaper and faster to swap a hub out and about than swap a broken axle shaft. And those awesome indestructible u-joints need alot of maintenance, they use a nylon bushing instead of needle bearings so the "star" is a bigger diameter to fit in the same knuckle, so its a constant grease battle with the little needle grease gun, plus they explained to me they are not supposed to be used in long high speed drives, like 4wd snow driving on highway for long periods, no idea how true, as mine is never on the highway for that long, just food for thought.
