Z3PR
Banned
I emailed ol'boy and said he should remove that aution for that dangerous POS so nobody dies in it. He replied
I think the guy is full of chit.
CK5
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another ebay beauty
- Thread starter dodgedude99
- Start date
resurrected_jimmy
1/2 ton status
Its not worth persuing in my opinion, its kind of hard to argue/make a valid point against insanity but for the antagonists in the group by all means don't let me stand in your way.
i say there be a weld-off....PROVE HIM WRONG 
its not really worth the trouble, hes jus a straight up moron. he will never see it that way.
its not really worth the trouble, hes jus a straight up moron. he will never see it that way.
heres what i just sent him:
Dude, are you crazy? what kind of a hack job did you do to this thing? the steering sucks, blocks in the front? the front-rear spring hangers gonna fall off, what were you thinking? there are plenty of ways to lift a chevy truck, shackle flips, springs lowered hangers, but what you have done is an atrocity. someone is gonna kill themselves in that thing. and a 203 bulletproof? hardly. by the way a dana 44 and 10 bolt are the same strength no matter what you think. you wanna learn something about chevy trucks, check out this website www.ck5.com - the forums section, until you do dont bother replying, causei can see what your capable of. normally i wouldnt say anything but your putting other peoples live in danger!
I cant wait to here his reply
Dude, are you crazy? what kind of a hack job did you do to this thing? the steering sucks, blocks in the front? the front-rear spring hangers gonna fall off, what were you thinking? there are plenty of ways to lift a chevy truck, shackle flips, springs lowered hangers, but what you have done is an atrocity. someone is gonna kill themselves in that thing. and a 203 bulletproof? hardly. by the way a dana 44 and 10 bolt are the same strength no matter what you think. you wanna learn something about chevy trucks, check out this website www.ck5.com - the forums section, until you do dont bother replying, causei can see what your capable of. normally i wouldnt say anything but your putting other peoples live in danger!
I cant wait to here his reply
Fight! Fight! Fight! 
you shoulda sent him the link to this thread
you shoulda sent him the link to this thread
muddybuddy said:you shoulda sent him the link to this thread
Then we'd have some belligerent drunk redneck telling us what a bunch of morons we were for thinking blocks in front are unsafe and how we're all just losers who don't wheel.
now what would be really funny is if he registered just so he could reply to what we are saying....it would be worth it
SEND HIM THE LINK
SEND HIM THE LINK
This iw what he wrote, i never told him but he figured out where our posts where and even comented on them. heres his reply:
Hi,, ok heres how I lifted this real quick. The rear springs. The bucket
towards the rear bumper I just cut the end off of and flipped it. Welded it
back on upside down and added a gusset. Stronger than stock. The front of
the spring. I popped out the 6 rivets that were from the factory. Next I
lowered the bucket down. There is still the stock piece of metal from the
factory there that the bottom of the v in the bucket was on. I rewelded the
bucket 6 inches lower. That means the top of the bucket is welded to the
frame. As well as welded all the way around the existing metal that was
there from the factory. I also welded gussets on the back and on the frame.
You cant really see the existing factory piece or my gussets in that pic.
But trust look at your chevy and you can see what I am talking about. Plus
its welded from the frame ALL the way around the bucket. Im gonna bet thats
way stronger than the 6 rivets that was holding it from GM. Plus the gussets
and bracing I put back in because of the stock chevy c notch frame. Go look
at your chevy and just imagine moving that bucket down on the existing metal
without all the bracing I put back in. Its sturdy enough in itself. Not to
mention the brace from the inside of each frame rail back across. Now to the
front,, I just added a shackle kit to the back of the front. Plus I welded
in a huge piece of metal in between the shackle for extra security. Way
better than stock. Next to the front. I dropped the spring bucket off the
frame. And put in a solid piece of 6 inch steel. Has all the same welds as
the factory, plus I added a 1/2 inch piece of steel across the front from
spring bucket to spring bucket, and welded that piece also to the frame.I
also tied in a piece inside the c notch frame all the way across, probably
gonna lose a little bit of articulation, but who cares with a chevy open
frame. So I dont see any issues with the spring buckets at all. I also took
the ends off the axles and castored them and put them back on to help out my
steering.And added a 6 inch raised steering arm. So now I guess the only
problem would be the blocks. They are solid machined aluminum and are pinned
through and to the springs. They are only 2 inch thick. Yes I guess I could
see someone running a cast hollow block how it might collapse and let the
front or rear end roll out. Or if someone was running a 10 inch block with
no ladder bars, or if they were using wood or something,, haha,, well I
guess someone has done it so I shouldnt laugh. No i guess a 203 isnt
bulletproof, buts its still made by chevy so that helps, and it is a lot
better than a 208 and I couldnt warrant a 205 on this truck so in this
situation its the most bulletproof transfer I could have used. And a dana 44
to a 10 bolt the only difference is the carrier and ring and pinion, I
prefer and think the 44 center is tougher than the 10 bolt, but I guess
thats a preference or matter of opinion. And I didnt want a huge 60 up front
on this truck, one corporate 14 was enough let alone one turned around
backwards,, lol And you guys sure are making fun of a lot of stuff before
you even asked any questions at all. yes the pics suck,, is it a hack job?
not by far. So as far as anyone dying,, they would already be dead if they
wheeled in a stock one compared to this. Any other questions give me a
yell,, sorry the pics spooked ya,, Jayson
Hi,, ok heres how I lifted this real quick. The rear springs. The bucket
towards the rear bumper I just cut the end off of and flipped it. Welded it
back on upside down and added a gusset. Stronger than stock. The front of
the spring. I popped out the 6 rivets that were from the factory. Next I
lowered the bucket down. There is still the stock piece of metal from the
factory there that the bottom of the v in the bucket was on. I rewelded the
bucket 6 inches lower. That means the top of the bucket is welded to the
frame. As well as welded all the way around the existing metal that was
there from the factory. I also welded gussets on the back and on the frame.
You cant really see the existing factory piece or my gussets in that pic.
But trust look at your chevy and you can see what I am talking about. Plus
its welded from the frame ALL the way around the bucket. Im gonna bet thats
way stronger than the 6 rivets that was holding it from GM. Plus the gussets
and bracing I put back in because of the stock chevy c notch frame. Go look
at your chevy and just imagine moving that bucket down on the existing metal
without all the bracing I put back in. Its sturdy enough in itself. Not to
mention the brace from the inside of each frame rail back across. Now to the
front,, I just added a shackle kit to the back of the front. Plus I welded
in a huge piece of metal in between the shackle for extra security. Way
better than stock. Next to the front. I dropped the spring bucket off the
frame. And put in a solid piece of 6 inch steel. Has all the same welds as
the factory, plus I added a 1/2 inch piece of steel across the front from
spring bucket to spring bucket, and welded that piece also to the frame.I
also tied in a piece inside the c notch frame all the way across, probably
gonna lose a little bit of articulation, but who cares with a chevy open
frame. So I dont see any issues with the spring buckets at all. I also took
the ends off the axles and castored them and put them back on to help out my
steering.And added a 6 inch raised steering arm. So now I guess the only
problem would be the blocks. They are solid machined aluminum and are pinned
through and to the springs. They are only 2 inch thick. Yes I guess I could
see someone running a cast hollow block how it might collapse and let the
front or rear end roll out. Or if someone was running a 10 inch block with
no ladder bars, or if they were using wood or something,, haha,, well I
guess someone has done it so I shouldnt laugh. No i guess a 203 isnt
bulletproof, buts its still made by chevy so that helps, and it is a lot
better than a 208 and I couldnt warrant a 205 on this truck so in this
situation its the most bulletproof transfer I could have used. And a dana 44
to a 10 bolt the only difference is the carrier and ring and pinion, I
prefer and think the 44 center is tougher than the 10 bolt, but I guess
thats a preference or matter of opinion. And I didnt want a huge 60 up front
on this truck, one corporate 14 was enough let alone one turned around
backwards,, lol And you guys sure are making fun of a lot of stuff before
you even asked any questions at all. yes the pics suck,, is it a hack job?
not by far. So as far as anyone dying,, they would already be dead if they
wheeled in a stock one compared to this. Any other questions give me a
yell,, sorry the pics spooked ya,, Jayson
ok, i see no bracing on those hangers, (you can see through to the other side) the front knuckles were " castered" as he puts it, looks like the stock welds to me, the frame being stiffer reduces articulation?????? i dont mind the front, front spring hangers though, hell im prolly gonna do the same thing. the 2" add aleave up front are too much, the 203 is stronger than a 208??? no way, ah whatever...
this was my reply to him:
Jayson,
sorry to come of as an ass, but i see alot of hacked vechicles on ebay. so
just to go over, i didnt have a problem with the rear flip, or the front
hangers. My problem is that lowering the front-rear hangers creates more
leverage on the frame. the stock backing piece is not enough (i know exactly
what you were talking about.) but you can see through to the hanger on the
other side and i see no bracing. no matter how good the welds are the hanger
itself is not strong enough. The 203 is the worst t-case ever put in a chevy
truck, the chain is extremely weak and its a full time 4x4 case, even if
you have a conversion kit fo it they suck ass. only the reduction case is
good. any wheeler would take a 208 or a 203, unless they were using a
203,205 and adapter kit to make a doubler. btw, chevy doesnt make the
tcases, new process does. the problem with 2" blocks up front, even if the
are add a leave, bolt in style is that it is just too much for the front
end. if the front axle/ tire take a dirrect hit its creating a great
leverage on the spring and will mess with yuor steering and driveline. also
when you lift a vechicle this much crossover steering is the only way to go.
Or crossover/ hydro assist or if its not being run on the road then full
hydro...
nick
Jayson,
sorry to come of as an ass, but i see alot of hacked vechicles on ebay. so
just to go over, i didnt have a problem with the rear flip, or the front
hangers. My problem is that lowering the front-rear hangers creates more
leverage on the frame. the stock backing piece is not enough (i know exactly
what you were talking about.) but you can see through to the hanger on the
other side and i see no bracing. no matter how good the welds are the hanger
itself is not strong enough. The 203 is the worst t-case ever put in a chevy
truck, the chain is extremely weak and its a full time 4x4 case, even if
you have a conversion kit fo it they suck ass. only the reduction case is
good. any wheeler would take a 208 or a 203, unless they were using a
203,205 and adapter kit to make a doubler. btw, chevy doesnt make the
tcases, new process does. the problem with 2" blocks up front, even if the
are add a leave, bolt in style is that it is just too much for the front
end. if the front axle/ tire take a dirrect hit its creating a great
leverage on the spring and will mess with yuor steering and driveline. also
when you lift a vechicle this much crossover steering is the only way to go.
Or crossover/ hydro assist or if its not being run on the road then full
hydro...
nick
Cornfield creations
1/2 ton status
The NP203 is as weak as a Np208?
ok he wants an apology now...
Like I said before the pictures suck ass. But even though you cant see them
the braces are there, they are right at the factory piece under the frame.
They attach halfway on the frame and the dropdown factory piece and run all
the way across. So you cant see them but they are there, they just arent at
the very bottom of the bucket. So now lets take care of the other gripes you
had, the 203,, yep everyone knows its a new process 203,, thus the np 205
and np 203 and np 208 names. K knew that,, anyway, I believe I already
stated that was the setup I might be going with was the 203 to 205 adapted
transfer cases(s) setup.. That was already stated in the auction,, so lets
scrap your fight there,, next the only problem you guys have is my blocks up
front??? How can anything longer and wider than the stock perch create a
leverage problem,, if i take a direct hit up front, the block is the last
thing I am worried about breaking. So I am gonna scrap that argument as
well,, the only thing I could see you could bitch about steering wise was me
not having crossover,,yeah i guess crossover is nice, ,, if you didnt have
access to some u joints for your steering bar,,, and a grinder and welder to
move your steering box down 3 inches like I did,,, soooo other than the one
wise ass that said I left the plastic on my battery and is held in by a
bungee cord,, i really dont see any real arguments here,, oh and by the
way,, i had just taken that off the rack at the shop to put in my truck to
move it off the hill it was on for the pics,, but there is no way any of you
could have known that cause you were all mouthing off the bat,, but im
really SO PROUD to see that I myself could have done something that the real
WHEELERS of CK5 might use on their own rigs, like the front spring drop,, so
was there any real arguments here for anything or do I deserve an Im sorry
from CK5 forums???? Jayson
Like I said before the pictures suck ass. But even though you cant see them
the braces are there, they are right at the factory piece under the frame.
They attach halfway on the frame and the dropdown factory piece and run all
the way across. So you cant see them but they are there, they just arent at
the very bottom of the bucket. So now lets take care of the other gripes you
had, the 203,, yep everyone knows its a new process 203,, thus the np 205
and np 203 and np 208 names. K knew that,, anyway, I believe I already
stated that was the setup I might be going with was the 203 to 205 adapted
transfer cases(s) setup.. That was already stated in the auction,, so lets
scrap your fight there,, next the only problem you guys have is my blocks up
front??? How can anything longer and wider than the stock perch create a
leverage problem,, if i take a direct hit up front, the block is the last
thing I am worried about breaking. So I am gonna scrap that argument as
well,, the only thing I could see you could bitch about steering wise was me
not having crossover,,yeah i guess crossover is nice, ,, if you didnt have
access to some u joints for your steering bar,,, and a grinder and welder to
move your steering box down 3 inches like I did,,, soooo other than the one
wise ass that said I left the plastic on my battery and is held in by a
bungee cord,, i really dont see any real arguments here,, oh and by the
way,, i had just taken that off the rack at the shop to put in my truck to
move it off the hill it was on for the pics,, but there is no way any of you
could have known that cause you were all mouthing off the bat,, but im
really SO PROUD to see that I myself could have done something that the real
WHEELERS of CK5 might use on their own rigs, like the front spring drop,, so
was there any real arguments here for anything or do I deserve an Im sorry
from CK5 forums???? Jayson
the chain driven section, the reduction section (front half is the strong part) that is the aprt used in doublers, also the gearings isnt as good, its heavier. the bad thing about the 208 is it has an aluminum case that needs to be protected
jhellwig
1/2 ton status
He moved the steering box and welded accross the frame on the rear hangers????
eclipse
1/2 ton status
hmmm. Still doesn't seem right to me.
Front blocks bad for road driving... your front tires take all the impart of bumps and lateral forces from turning which cause them to pop out unlike the rears which don't have any problems.
Second. There are reasons why engineers design chassis to have certian parts rivited to the frame. The chassis are designed to flex and have movement and alot of braces welded on doesn't seem right to me. Also alot of heat weakens steel, another reason why alot of brackets aren't welded to the frame. I'd think for all the time and effort into rewelding all those spring hangers, a set of 6in springs wouldn't seem so bad.
Front blocks bad for road driving... your front tires take all the impart of bumps and lateral forces from turning which cause them to pop out unlike the rears which don't have any problems.
Second. There are reasons why engineers design chassis to have certian parts rivited to the frame. The chassis are designed to flex and have movement and alot of braces welded on doesn't seem right to me. Also alot of heat weakens steel, another reason why alot of brackets aren't welded to the frame. I'd think for all the time and effort into rewelding all those spring hangers, a set of 6in springs wouldn't seem so bad.
jhellwig
1/2 ton status
I was told that you never want to weld on a frame unless it is at the ends or small welds that run with the frame, not accross.
Z3PR
Banned
I would have used a quality set of lift springs. That just looks down right scarry to me.
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