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Another NP208 NP241 Clocking Thread!

The NP208, clocking ring and adapter are all sealed up and bolted together. I'm going to let it dry really good before putting it back in but it shouldn't be long now till it's going again. Two busy weekends coming up so we'll see if I can squeeze in some time to work on it.

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T-case and crossmember in! Now to get started on the floor and figure out a shifter. Here's my new belly clearance! This thing should have been done months ago...

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Also scored these at a yard sale the other day. 4 trim rings, five rallies and 8 hub caps!

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I am glad that you are making progress though. You are beating me as far as that goes!
 
Got my shifter ordered today for the t-case. Looking forward to getting that in and the floor done. Floor is going to be a bit tricky, but I'm working on ideas.

I'm not going to be able to shift the axle forward right now so I'm holding off on the 1350 drive shaft. What kind of tube do you guys use to lengthen the factory shaft?
 
Crap, thought that was in this thread...

I bought the JB Customs cable shifter. I have been emailing Jon this weekend about what bracket would work with the clocked case. He did some measuring and it turns out that the drivers drop cable bracket will work with a clocked up passenger case. Should be here this weekend and I can get it in and start mocking up the floors.
 
Time mostly. I want the cable set up for when I have harnesses so I can get everything in reach and just bolting in this saves me time fabbing up the linkage and box to raise the shifter. Plus with mine clocked all the way up and no body lift it is TIGHT in there.
 
I just suck with fab, so I will be going the same route with a cable shifter. Make sure to post up plenty of pictures:popcorn:
 
I know you have been busy lately with family stuff, but did you ever wrap this thing up?

Got any pictures of your cable shifter?
 
I got the cable shifter then realized the bracket wasn't going to work and that I don't have enough space for it. I decided to start the boat siding then I can build in more space as I rework the floors but that got put on hold because of redoing a bathroom, needing a roof, buying a new car for the wife, and now Mom's sick. I have not made a cut or turned a wrench on it since the last post about ordering the shifter.
 
Up to the bottom door hinge so I can still run my doors but cut out the rusty parts. Need some 2"x8" box though and that's a major hold up.
 
What thickness metal is everyone using when they build a new crossmember? I was thinking 2x2 3/16 thick should be plenty.

@TerryD if your still looking for a np241 tailshaft housing pm me, did the sye on mine and kept it in case anyone needed it.
 
woo
I think mine is only 1.5 x 1.5" and maybe 1/8" thick for the crosses. It's an area that's going to see twist no mater what and that's okay. It just needs to be strong enough to resist sagging where the trans mount is. Where the actual bolts are along the frame is 3/16" angle and there is a plate welded on top of the 1.5x1.5 that is 3/16 for the trans mount. Pic is back on post #7
 
K85 Octane said:
woo
I think mine is only 1.5 x 1.5" and maybe 1/8" thick for the crosses. It's an area that's going to see twist no mater what and that's okay. It just needs to be strong enough to resist sagging where the trans mount is. Where the actual bolts are along the frame is 3/16" angle and there is a plate welded on top of the 1.5x1.5 that is 3/16 for the trans mount. Pic is back on post #7
Click to expand...

I've looked over your build quite a bit and have pics of your crossmember saved as reference lol Thats good to know on the thickness, guess im just gun shy and trying to overbuild it. Built a crossmember for my old ls1 swapped fox body a few years ago out of 1x1" and bend it pretty good at the track.. could of been sidestepping the clutch at 5k that caused that though
 
I think the plate is 3/16" on mine and the tube is sch40 structural 1.5" pipe. Been too long since I've been on here!!! Blazer is still sitting where it was in these pictures though...
 
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