CK5
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Another overheating Q from me, help before I pull the 406!

I will second magging the heads. You will only kick yourself if the problem returns, and you will always wonder.

What he said about the T-stat holds true too.

400's are not overly difficult to cool, they just make you think more. Mine ran real close to 190* with a bigger cam than you are using.

Again, did the problem occur before or after the trip to the dyno? Got headers? Run warm in slow traffic or highway/both?

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Are you sure you're not running and overly lean fuel mixture and that your timing is correct?

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It was lean for a while when I first built the motor but when I had it dyno tuned they recurved the dist. and got the carb tuned perfectly. I'm at about 10 degrees advance at idle.

It has wanted to run warm for a long time, before headers, dyno tuning.etc.
 
Its a little late for rjfguitar but if anyone else has these symtoms try some stop leak. I used cayene pepper in the radiator on a truck with the exact thing he had going on and the truck ran for three more years at least(guy sold it afer that).
It was kinda funny, after using the pepper it smelled like a crab boil comming out the tailpipe untill the leak(about 20 mins.) stopped. Stay away from the steam tough. Its like pepper spray.
Its cheap and worth a try.
 
:UPDATE # 2:
We got the motor back together last night at around midnight. Took it for a test drive today and it warms up slower due the fact that I drilled 3 small holes on the lip of the thermostat. The temp is still fluctuating like it did before so I guess I did everything right when I built the motor and it wasn't any of the gaskets. Just wasted $425. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif Oh well. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif I bought a mechanical water temp guage and am going to install it soon and I guess I am just going to wait for a hot day (90+ degrees) and see what it does. If it doesn't get any hoter than it does now i will be ok because it doesn't get above 210 with the A/C on. Just makes me wonder what it will do in hot weather. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif Looks like I will be buying a Ford 6.0 SD or Chevy duramax HD this fall to fix it. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
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Refresh me please. I the motor getting hot going down the high or at idle?

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Doesn't matter. It will warm up at a stop light for a couple seconds but as soon as I take off(before I get through the intersection) the gueage will drop a few degrees. Seems to want to stay a little warmer at lower RPM's like it isn't flowing right. Runs warmer in OD at 65 than 30 in 2nd. I've replaced just about the whole cooling system and just went through the top half of the motor thinking it was a headgasket or intake gasket causing a restriction or transfer of heat from the cylinders, nope, the gaskets were all in good shape. I am kind of confused and am a loss of what to do next. But I don't really care now anyway, tired of screwing with it. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif I am going to park it this fall anyway when I buy a new truck.
 
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ok Do you have a external transmission cooler?

[/ QUOTE ]yup.
 
/forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gifget it fixed yet?? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
It sounds like your problem is related to airflow issues. Everyone wants to sit here and cry head gaskets intake this and that......

But the fact of the matter is that you said it gets hot when it idles. That's when you need the fan more than ever.

If you're having overheating issues at idle and when not moving, check the fan, clutch, and shroud, as long as the radiator isn't plugged up.

These trucks came from the factory with 400s and 454s and were made to tow heavy loads with the A/C on. If yours isn't cooling enough to even push the truck down the road without overheating, you've got a problem.

I would definitely point to airflow more than internal engine malfunction with your symptoms though.
 
Do you want an air conditioner that will not drag down your engine and make it work harder? Then check this link out:

http://www.rdac.com/prod-cat-r6100.html

I am going to get one of these for my truck one day because I live in Las Vegas, and A/C is very important. The only problem is you got to cut a hole in your roof to mount one of these, unless you have a blazer, then it can be mounted in the fiber glass roof
 
Well he had already mentioned that he had a coolant leak in the first post, near the number 8 cylinder area, i think thats why everybody is saying things about the heads and intake gaskets, if it's leaking out there, it could be leaving inside as well, thats all, no one has though mentioned anything about if he even has a fan shroud installed or not though. and he also mentioned he replaced everything on the cooling system which i would assume that includes the radiator, so that basically leaves the fan clutch, shroud or an internal leak. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
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Well he had already mentioned that he had a coolant leak in the first post, near the number 8 cylinder area, i think thats why everybody is saying things about the heads and intake gaskets, if it's leaking out there, it could be leaving inside as well, thats all, no one has though mentioned anything about if he even has a fan shroud installed or not though. and he also mentioned he replaced everything on the cooling system which i would assume that includes the radiator, so that basically leaves the fan clutch, shroud or an internal leak. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

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You basically sumed it up. Like I said I have replaced the whole cooling system including the radiator, fan clutch, stat, and hoses. I am running the stock shroud with it just slightly cut to clear from the body lift. It would run cooler at 35 in 3rd gear than 70 in 4th...so that would rule out airflow. Yesterday I got it at about 210 on the electric guage, popped the cap with it running and stuck a mechanical guage sending unit into my new 4 core radiator. The mech. guage read 192. So I guess it is the electrical guage. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif I guess the stock guage would fluctuate a lot if it was bad. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif When I saw the coolant leaking I was almost certain that it had to be internal, that was just another problem in it's own, the guage is it I guess.

I guess I win the "dumbass of the month" award. /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif Oh well. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
 
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As long as it's fixed. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

[/ QUOTE ]Yeah, just wish I wouldn't have had the attitude "na, can't be that, has to be something more serious" /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
 
The gauges are going to give different readings from the heads and in the radiator....
 
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The gauges are going to give different readings from the heads and in the radiater....

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I am thinking about that too. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
Time for a cowl induction hood to let some of that extra header heat out /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
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