CK5
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anybody built a 454 for towing?

Depends on the tars. With 37's 60 is very comfortable on mine. I'll run 65 for a couple hours going to wheel and it sounds good. I wish I had a turbo. Even without I don't notice using more than 1/4 throttle at that speed. I can't imagine why some people think they won't pull themselves down the road with even smaller tires.

I was referring to his quote:
Course the 4.56 gears and no over drive might be more of what's keeping me at 55 to 60:D

From this I assumed, with his tire of choice, that he would be at the rev limit on the road. And the 6.2 at full speed sounds downright awful, IMO. :doah:
 
I have built my share of engines in the past so, I hope I can help. First, the closer you keep it to stock the, easier and cheaper the build will go. If you change any one thing that change will affect other parts of the build. Sometimes the change is good and other times it is bad. The 454 has always had issues with air flow. I would recommend changing the cam out for one that has more duration. This keeps the valves open a bit longer allowing for more air flow. I would also highly recommend you have the valve ports opened up and have larger valves installed. Don't forget hardened valve seats for unleaded gas. An intake is a good idea just make sure you keep it a dual plane and make sure it will work with your cam selection. An intake is not always needed. Port match the intake with the heads and open up those ports. Same on the exhaust side. Now, with all the work above on the heads you maybe thinking about an aftermarket set of aluminum heads that already addresses these changes. And that is a great idea, lower weight, better flow, no added machine work, and their is a plethora of choices. Edelbrock heads are a great idea here. Compression ratio will be affected so, pay attention to the cc and head gasket thickness.

Exhaust on the 454 is always been too small on any factory set up rig. I am not saying you need dual 3" straight through pipes but, a dual 2 1/4 or 2 1/2" with a high quality flow through muffler will do wonders. I prefer Dynomax ultra flo mufflers myself but, the VT muffler maybe better for your application. No drone, very quiet until you want them to bark.

A stroker kit may also be a good idea depending on how far you want to get into the motor build. A 0.030 over bore and remove the 4.000 crank in favor of a 4.250 and you end up with a 496 or 8.1l.

My last recommendation should be the first. Fuel injection. This will make the motor more user friendly, and will give you a wee bit better fuel economy. There are a number of aftermarket injection systems out there.

LT.
 
Depends on the tars. With 37's 60 is very comfortable on mine. I'll run 65 for a couple hours going to wheel and it sounds good. I wish I had a turbo. Even without I don't notice using more than 1/4 throttle at that speed. I can't imagine why some people think they won't pull themselves down the road with even smaller tires.


Of course I am using the fact I already have 4.56s to get bigger tires but for the first while it will be stock tires. Which aren't super short.

altitude has alot to do with power. Any motor is not gonna feel as strong at 9000 ft as it does at sea level. My Jimmy is pretty adequate around at 4000 ft elevation but the over 6000 ft elevation I live at it is awful.

Rob (LT) is right though. Good heads will make a massive difference on a big block. It's a good place to spend money
 
Why not just give it a good tune up and run it how it is. Then you can save your money for the cummins swap. If you still need a little more for the bigger hills throw some nos at it. A 50 to 75 HP shot wont hurt a thing. Just make sure you you pull about 2* out of the timing and change the plugs.
 
Thanks for the input guys I will archive it for future use as like I said before I plan on running the engine the way it is and see what kind of results I get, just wanted ideas/thoughts for the future thanks again
 
Can i go off on a tangent here?

1) Are headers a good idea/or bad idea for a tow rig?

2) What's the highest recommended compression for a towing engine? In this case a 350, 383 or 400 small block?
 
yes long tube headers.
Not sure on your elevation but I would say no more than 9 to 1
 
Can i go off on a tangent here?

1) Are headers a good idea/or bad idea for a tow rig?

2) What's the highest recommended compression for a towing engine? In this case a 350, 383 or 400 small block?


Headers will increase performance for almost any rig. It's just weather or not you want to spend the moula to get good ones, or suffer the maintenance for cheap ones. And the more modified your engine is, the more performance you will gain from headers.

The compression would depend on your camshalf selection. I would want to calculate the dynamic compression and go from there. It also depends on your gearing, if you are going to be lugging around a lot you have more chance of detonating at low RPM high load.
 
Headers are not a bad idea but, you have to address other items at the same time. Wrapping the starter and the plug wire ends. Making sure the plug wires are not touching the headers and use proper wire separators. New exhaust or modify what you have existing if it is up snuff.

Manifolds are easier to use, less leaks, generally. I have always preferred using Doug Thorley Tri Y headers. They have a similar look as a long tube header but, due to the design of the headers they help with the 8 to 4 and the 5 to 7 firing order and help build torque.

Highest compression I would go with is 9 to 1 but, elevation can have some effect on this. Of course cam choice, along with the rest of the valve train and cc on the head will alter this ratio.

LT.
 
The reason why i was asking about headers and compression is i was under the impression that when you're towing for long periods of time you want to keep the heat down.

But ok.
 
Never saw any problems resulting from my Dad's 454 using headers for towing. It took a LOT of extra fuel to keep it from being lean (~20% more, proper disclosure, it had a mild cam and Edelbrock intake swapped at same time as the headers), I don't think many take the time to fix fueling after a header swap, and that will certainly drive temps up.
 

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