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Anybody wanna measure their ~1976 K series cab? I'd appreciate it

MountainmanID

1/2 ton status
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I know that '73-87 should be similar, but I'd be willing to bet there are some differences from year to year from tooling changes/wear at the GM factories over the course of 14 years.

I'm looking to buy a cab (bunch on CL) that is beyond saving with corner rot and/or front end damage. The purpose of this acquisition is to provide a matching section to be used to extend my K5 cab back 8-14" and to seal the cab while also providing a nice rear window that matches. The picture below shows approx what I'm gonna use to extend my K5:
CABHARVEST.jpg

The K5 bedsides will be cut off at the right spot to end the body at wherever the new cab rear is. The cab rear will (hopefully) match up pretty well with the existing K5 body and make body work fairly straight forward as I will be able to weld it to the K5 cab without having an overlap by leveling it in the relief area where the factory fiberglass top used to sit. At this point I plan to fill the sides with 16 gauge sheet metal although S-10 type pop-out windows aren't out of the question. I just haven't seen any extended cab square bodies with rear windows that looked like they really fit.... The bottom of the back of the cab will be cut out to match the contour of the K5 "bed" to include cutouts for the rear wheel wells as anything over about 8" extension will run into the rear wheel fenders. The back of the truck will have a sort of hybrid flatbed/rollcage with a ramp that can slide out from under the flat bed to extend the bed and also be used to load dirtbikes or dead animals (hunting rig).

Anyway, if I could get a few of y'all to measure your cabs real quick, I can get some idea of how much variation is out there and how well my idea will or won't work. The below image shows the measuring points (A,B,C,D). Dimension A is the widest part of the roof before it starts to radius down. This is the part where I'm most concerned about proper fit and look. I'd really appreciate it if you would take a quick second to measure your cab.

Cabdimenpost.jpg

Thanks much,
MMID
 
Don't anybody pull a muscle trying to get an answer here
 
Yah I'm kinda bummed on thelack of help. I've been driving around with a tape in my Honda looking for one sitting in a parking lot
 
Neat.
I seen your post but as I figured, i had the right year, wrong vehicle.
good luck.
 
This would be a cool build. Hope someone comes through and you keep us updated on the progress. With pics
 
Come on guys, there's supposedly 35,000 members on this site and I'd be willing to bet more than a few have a K series standard cab. I haven't bought the cab yet and I already got chased out of the wal-mart parking lot by a guy who claimed to " 'gon shoot your ass" for stepping to his K20 with a measuring tape. Judging by the small paper bag in his hand he went in to grab his prescription rather than a full on 90 minute Wal-mart trip. There's a lot of square bodies around here but I had to sit in the lot for 15 minutes for one to pull up and park so I could hop out of my accord to go measure it. I really don't want to buy a cab just to find out it won't work.

Plan is to match up the drip rail, roof and floor from the K5 to the K10-20 cab and try to make it as seamless as possible. No windows at this point, just sheet metal to fill in the sides.
 
Maybe post in the Garage section?:dunno:

Or maybe this'll work?
@handloader90

Though his is a '79
79 be close enough. Seems like most of the cabs on Craigslist I see listed in good shape are from the 80 s. I'm trying to use a 70s cab though as I don't need the bottom cab corners to be intact and I'd rather use one with a rusted out floor pan since that is going to the crusher after I harvest the roof and back wall/rear window. Hoping to find a sliding rear window. I still have a mint 76 sliding side window top that I may end up using if I can section out the whole bed side and use the current tailgate with roll up rear glass. I'm much more comfortable working with steel than fiber glass but a roll down window would be tits on an extended cab. Only way to make to make it work would be to weld the last 4-6" of bed on the immediate rear of the cab to retain the tailgate and do a lot of fiberglass work to shorten the top to 10-16" total length. It'd be a shame to cut up a pristine 76 slide window top just to do that.....
 
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