CK5
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Anyone have any super low buck off road tricks? Any pics?

jays68yak said:
IMO if you want to steer then yes. Its amazing how much more sucky the stock steering gets once you add lift springs. The other thing is if you move your axle forward or do a 52" spring swap you going to have to go to crossover due to the stock draglink being too long.

I half disagree. The only way you "need" crossover with a lift is if you need a lot of articulation. Otherwise a drop pitman and/or a raised lower arm is fine. I have 6" springs with a raised lower arm and there's nothing wrong with the way mine steers.
Crossover is a lot of expense and hassle and it can actually make street manners worse (bumpsteer death).

Since he never said what he's building the truck for, it could go either way.

Definitely needed if you move the axle forward, though.
 
koldsimer said:
Here's a good nearly free mod- move your front shackle hangers and build custom length shackles. By far one of the best modifications that i've done to my truck.

That front driveshaft angle is sick.
 
Take your sway bar off and cut the fenders some 35s and a locker you will be good also depending on your scrounging skills see if you can find some 3/4 ton axles the strength is the same in front but a huge gain in the back
 
Well thanks for all the tips!. I guess I will give a little info on what I am building. Its a 84 jimmy. I will be doing major cutting and trimming, I am thinking of narrowing the front and rear sheet metal. As for springs and axles I allready have 52 for the front and 56s for the rear. Axles are dana 44 and dana 60 rear from a 3/4 ton dodge. I am thinking about welding both axles and using a cheap hydrolic assist steering but dont know if this would help steering with the axle welded. I will also be doing a cheap Xover steering. Anyone have any tips on tapering the front and rear?
 
When mudding use a stock are filter with a ladies nylon sock over the inlet. Dont laugh to hard! It works great for keeping mud out of the filter but must be cleaned often if you are hitting the mud fast and hard.

"Shave" the lip off of the bottom of the rear diff. I shaved my 60 front(1/2") and my 14bff(3/4''). This gives more clearence and helps to slide over rocks and such.

Use flat top knuckels on that 44 front. With 4'' or more lift a 10b tie rod on these knuckels will have about 2.5'' more clearence than the 44 unit.

Flip or trim your over loads for more flex.

Lose as much weight as possible. In the summer I ditch the top, doors and tailgate on my k5. I gutted, stripped and chopped my sub. about 2000# lighter than stock. All I can say is WOW.

Horse trade. Any time you find good parts for cheap or free grap them. Even if you have no use for them you can trade them later or sell them for a profit.
Read yor local classifieds, nickel-nic or such to keep up on the going rate for parts. This will give you buying leverage and give you a baseline for selling / trading parts.

I could post up all night.... I might edit in more if I remember some more good ones!
EDIT!
Buy a cutting torch and small wire feed welder. The buy in isn't cheap but the money you save in doing your own fab work will come back ten fold.

Home made shackle flip. I did mine for under $20.

When building exhaust on the cheap visit your local muffler shop. Often times they will let you dig through their scrap bin. I scored a bunch of 3'' stainless coated nearly new pipe. I got enough to do the whole system on my Sub-buggy in one trip.

Home made high clearence front drive shaft.

Clocking ring for 208. $67 shipped. I did this and swapped in an older x-member(late 70's) to replace the cheesy stock one. This mod can get very expensive if you have to buy high angle, long travel shafts though. I'm running minimal lift on this truck and am squeezing by.

Weld the rear. If you plan on running tires bigger than 35'' dont weld the front.

Spicer 5-760 x axle shaft u-joints. Very strong and about $20 each.

2 quart engine oil filter. Who doesnt want more oil in the system? Even though its lower than stock I have never hit mine on anything.
 
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More cheap tricks!

If you you dont have a snatch strap, chains or cables with an old tire in between will work very well.

Get a high lift jack and a spare at least close to the size of your tires, even if it is low on tread. Spares can often be found for cheap at you local tire store, some times even whole sets if you are really pinching pennys!

Over filling your auto trany a pint or so will help keep it from starving for fluid on very steep climbs. This seems to have no neg. effects on the tranny and I do it all the time.

Cheap zero rate add-a-leaf's. 1"X2.5"x6" long. $28 for eight of them from the local metal shop. Puting 4 of these on my buddys truck this weekend.

Get your buddys into this hobby. Some projects are near impossible to do by your self, and extra hands and brain power is always nice. Wheeling and wrenching with close friends are some of the best times a person can have in this life.

Get on this site regularly. This place will save you loads of money and make the difficult to impossible projects much easier. Not to mention ideas and products that would be hard to find anywhere else.

Thats all. For now...
 
goldwing2000 said:
'Splain that?
Are you saying that putting in lift springs requires crossover?
Or something else?
Mainly referring to the 52" spring swap because your axle is moved forward.

DO NOT USE MARINE GREASE FOR WHEEL BEARINGS!!! They are not designed for the high heat that disc/drum brakes can produce!! My friend was coming back from the cliffs in his ram charger and his wheel bearing seized to the spindle! It was a PITA to fix too! He was using hi-temp wheel bearing grease which is for trailers.
 

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