What kind of CFM do they pull though? Diameter means nothing if they turn at 50 RPM. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
CK5
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Anyone Running Electric Cooling Fan(s)??
- Thread starter ford_assassin
- Start date
KRAZIE87K5
1/2 ton status
$200???? NO WAY IN HELL. I spent $20 for a Ford Taurus fan from the local hard. Just run it in high all the time, and its good to go. One fan, $20. Good Napa relay, $35. Some wire to hook it all up along with a 6 pack for entertainment, $20. Done deal for $75.
-Dan
-Dan
[ QUOTE ]
$200???? NO WAY IN HELL. I spent $20 for a Ford Taurus fan from the local hard. Just run it in high all the time, and its good to go. One fan, $20. Good Napa relay, $35. Some wire to hook it all up along with a 6 pack for entertainment, $20. Done deal for $75.
[/ QUOTE ]
Maybe you have a really good yard nearby. I saw the Windstar fans new on-line for $135, and the yards seem to want at least $90. I guess that was calling them up and asking, I'll get something off if I yank it myself. Of course, it is 5F out though... wait why do I even need a fan? /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
$200???? NO WAY IN HELL. I spent $20 for a Ford Taurus fan from the local hard. Just run it in high all the time, and its good to go. One fan, $20. Good Napa relay, $35. Some wire to hook it all up along with a 6 pack for entertainment, $20. Done deal for $75.
[/ QUOTE ]
Maybe you have a really good yard nearby. I saw the Windstar fans new on-line for $135, and the yards seem to want at least $90. I guess that was calling them up and asking, I'll get something off if I yank it myself. Of course, it is 5F out though... wait why do I even need a fan? /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
or2play
1/2 ton status
Where did you get those relays? And by chance do you sill have the part #. I just tried a 40 amp in one of the windstar fans and still not comming on. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
88Silverado
1/2 ton status
I bought the 50A relays at a electric parts house.
A 40A should work fine. Did you check the fans first with a battery to make sure they work?
You can send me a PM if you have more questions.
A 40A should work fine. Did you check the fans first with a battery to make sure they work?
You can send me a PM if you have more questions.
justwhatido
1/2 ton status
Bob, Great Pics. I have been photo documenting my restoration, well, tear down so far. I had a local upholstry shop take the rear seat from a Silverado and shorten it to fit between the rear wheel wells behind the back seat. It will face the rear and seat two. The botom will pivot up and secure to the back so that we lose only 6-8 inches of the cargo space.
That means the whole brood can ride at once.
I'll post the photo journal when we begin rebuilding and not just tearing down.
That means the whole brood can ride at once.
I'll post the photo journal when we begin rebuilding and not just tearing down.
Thanks Paul.
I look forward to seeing the pic's of your rebuild. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
I look forward to seeing the pic's of your rebuild. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
the_goat
1/2 ton status
This might be a stupid question but...Why couldn't the fans be wired so that they are always on when the truck is running? The mechanical fan is always on when the truck is running,right? I can see the advantages in having it come on and off but, to make it simple, why wouldn't this work?
Thanks, John
Thanks, John
Bit of a disagreement on this topic, but in essence, there is no point.
At over X speed, the incoming air will just "push" the fans to equal the speed of the air coming in...no reason to turn the fans if the incoming air is moving faster than the fans can "pull".
Second, a good cooling system takes some time to get up to fan turn on temp. The temp switches are designed to bring the temp back down around 15* before they shut back off...keeps from cycling them so much. Fans on all the time would keep system temp more stable, but GM hasn't thought that was a problem since the inception of electric fan setups.
Third, no simplicity in what you suggest...still need a 12V ignition source and ground wire to/from the relays, so why not use a temp sensor instead of just grounding the relay when the key is on? Yes, two more pieces, but temp switches (and the stock relays) seem to last 10-15 years and 100K miles+, so reliability is about as much of a concern on them as it is on your engine. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Lastly, fans being on all the time are a drain on the charging system, and thus an additional load on the engine. Might as well stick with a clutch fan if you want ultimate simplicity, performance and functionality in one simple package.
At over X speed, the incoming air will just "push" the fans to equal the speed of the air coming in...no reason to turn the fans if the incoming air is moving faster than the fans can "pull".
Second, a good cooling system takes some time to get up to fan turn on temp. The temp switches are designed to bring the temp back down around 15* before they shut back off...keeps from cycling them so much. Fans on all the time would keep system temp more stable, but GM hasn't thought that was a problem since the inception of electric fan setups.
Third, no simplicity in what you suggest...still need a 12V ignition source and ground wire to/from the relays, so why not use a temp sensor instead of just grounding the relay when the key is on? Yes, two more pieces, but temp switches (and the stock relays) seem to last 10-15 years and 100K miles+, so reliability is about as much of a concern on them as it is on your engine. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Lastly, fans being on all the time are a drain on the charging system, and thus an additional load on the engine. Might as well stick with a clutch fan if you want ultimate simplicity, performance and functionality in one simple package.
Muddytazz
1 ton status
While were on the subject of electric fans, can a person run the stock clutch fan AND electric fans in front of the rad?
With a properly functioning clutch fan you shouldn't need suplemental cooling.
esp. if it's the 7 blade H/D fan.
But to answer your question,yes you can.
But you need to figure out WHY you would need that extra cooling.
Bad rad,bad fan clutch,no shroud.
esp. if it's the 7 blade H/D fan.
But to answer your question,yes you can.
But you need to figure out WHY you would need that extra cooling.
Bad rad,bad fan clutch,no shroud.
Again, no point. You don't want two fans "fighting" each other. Unless they turn the exact same speed, (or move the same amount of air) the slower fan is a restriction, whether in front or behind the other fan.
An auxiallary fan over something like an oil cooler or PS cooler is a different story, as long as the auxiallary fan doesn't make life harder on the primary fan.
Just use the most effective single (dual electrics behind the radiator I'm including in the single fan category) fan you can, coupled with an effective/in good shape cooling system. When you start dealing with multiple stacked coolers (AC condensor, radiator, oil cooler) a more effective fan will help, as it needs to pull the air through more restriction. A fan over the top of the other coolers, if not running, is a restriction.
An auxiallary fan over something like an oil cooler or PS cooler is a different story, as long as the auxiallary fan doesn't make life harder on the primary fan.
Just use the most effective single (dual electrics behind the radiator I'm including in the single fan category) fan you can, coupled with an effective/in good shape cooling system. When you start dealing with multiple stacked coolers (AC condensor, radiator, oil cooler) a more effective fan will help, as it needs to pull the air through more restriction. A fan over the top of the other coolers, if not running, is a restriction.
[ QUOTE ]
While were on the subject of electric fans, can a person run the stock clutch fan AND electric fans in front of the rad?
[/ QUOTE ]I rented a 2003 Dodge Dakota for a short while and it had both a mechanical fan and a small electric fan on the back side of the radiator, not in front.
To orig. poster,
You would definantly want to keep the fans off when your engine is not at the set temp. It will take forever for your engine to warm up on a cold morning if you have really powerfull fans going at say a 100* engine temp. Like Dorian said, that is fairly hard on your charging system. I have some HUGE electric flexalite fans and a few weeks after I installed them my voltage reg. went south in my large case Comm. alt. Plus if you have dual batteries it gives the alt a good chance to charge up the batteries when the fans are off instead of trying to power fans, charge, other electrical accessories and make the alt. charge at full power severly shortning it's life. I've learned that you want to try and keep your power usage down to a minimum and having the elect. fans switch on and off will help. I have the dual flex a lites, huge dual amp stereo, A/C, ignition, lights and I know that my 100 amp alt is pulling nearly full power and it has been hard on my battery because I thinks it's going south. You want to keep your amp requirement fairly lower than your max amp output from the altenator otherwise you will have problems.
While were on the subject of electric fans, can a person run the stock clutch fan AND electric fans in front of the rad?
[/ QUOTE ]I rented a 2003 Dodge Dakota for a short while and it had both a mechanical fan and a small electric fan on the back side of the radiator, not in front.
To orig. poster,
You would definantly want to keep the fans off when your engine is not at the set temp. It will take forever for your engine to warm up on a cold morning if you have really powerfull fans going at say a 100* engine temp. Like Dorian said, that is fairly hard on your charging system. I have some HUGE electric flexalite fans and a few weeks after I installed them my voltage reg. went south in my large case Comm. alt. Plus if you have dual batteries it gives the alt a good chance to charge up the batteries when the fans are off instead of trying to power fans, charge, other electrical accessories and make the alt. charge at full power severly shortning it's life. I've learned that you want to try and keep your power usage down to a minimum and having the elect. fans switch on and off will help. I have the dual flex a lites, huge dual amp stereo, A/C, ignition, lights and I know that my 100 amp alt is pulling nearly full power and it has been hard on my battery because I thinks it's going south. You want to keep your amp requirement fairly lower than your max amp output from the altenator otherwise you will have problems.
ACTUALLY, as I was made to realize awhile back, even if the fans are on all the time, as long as the thermostat is working correctly, warmup times would not change, since no coolant is moving through the block, it is just sitting there, "held in place" via the thermostat.
Of course, there is SOME heat transfer via the coolent in the hoses, but it's not actively circulating, so it's not a large amount.
Of course, there is SOME heat transfer via the coolent in the hoses, but it's not actively circulating, so it's not a large amount.
Going to electric fans cut off a full minute of warmup time on my truck. I figure it's because there is no air going through the engine compartment other than what the wind is blowing.
I went to electric fans for a number of reasons. The first one was warmup times. The second reason was fuel economy. The third one is to try to keep the amount of mud to a minimum in my engine compartment.
I found later that going to electric fans improved throttle response also. I also suspect the water pump will outlast my motor. Not having a shroud makes it much nicer to work on the motor as well. I found out that while the fan flings the mud rearward in the engine compartment that the crank pulley will still cover the motor.
I went to electric fans for a number of reasons. The first one was warmup times. The second reason was fuel economy. The third one is to try to keep the amount of mud to a minimum in my engine compartment.
I found later that going to electric fans improved throttle response also. I also suspect the water pump will outlast my motor. Not having a shroud makes it much nicer to work on the motor as well. I found out that while the fan flings the mud rearward in the engine compartment that the crank pulley will still cover the motor.
Stock clutch fan opertaing correctly doesn't move air during warmup either, so thats a bit of a sticking point.
Of course, factory did use non-clutch fans in some applications, perhaps thats what you are referring to?
Of course, factory did use non-clutch fans in some applications, perhaps thats what you are referring to?
84_Chevy_K10
Banned
A clutch fan still turns and pulls some air when the clutch is disengaged.
Yeah, I was just thinking about that. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I think the service manual actually lists the RPM's at which the fan is doing some work. It's still not much, especially when compared to airflow when it's locked up.
I think the service manual actually lists the RPM's at which the fan is doing some work. It's still not much, especially when compared to airflow when it's locked up.
kyser_soze
1/2 ton status
Flex-a-lite controller summit part #FLX-30331 is all you need it has the relays built in with a temp probe that turns your fan on and off at a selectable temp setting from 160-240 degrees I have one for my $40 junk yard duel fans and it works great. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
the_goat
1/2 ton status
Very good. As always, I appreciate all of the responses.
Thanks,
John
Thanks,
John
