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Anyone with part number for the door striker bushing?

I've not had problems with the right bits, but probably depends on how rusty the inside of the pillar is. My dad used vise grips to get the last batch of strikers off wrecking yard vehicles, I'd rather not gouge the heck out of the strikers (thats just me, it really doesn't matter), but then again I've got the right bits too.

Probably a good idea to take a marker and outline the washer before loosening up so realignment is easy. It's easy anyways, but it might make it a one-shot deal vs. trial and error.
 
dyeager535 said:
I've not had problems with the right bits, but probably depends on how rusty the inside of the pillar is. My dad used vise grips to get the last batch of strikers off wrecking yard vehicles, I'd rather not gouge the heck out of the strikers (thats just me, it really doesn't matter), but then again I've got the right bits too.

Probably a good idea to take a marker and outline the washer before loosening up so realignment is easy. It's easy anyways, but it might make it a one-shot deal vs. trial and error.
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yup kinda like takin any panel off and puttin em back on. I always have a marker handy :D
 
On a suburban the front door nuts will fall inside, so take the interior trim panel off and hold or catch the nut. The rear doors, the nut will stay there. I used vice grips to loosen the bolts and outline with marker. A little silicone grease on the sleeves help them go on easier. They are available individually.
Tarey
 
The hinge bushings were worn out on my K5, which in turn took out the plastic piece on the striker. I replaced the bushings in the hinges. Went to put a new plastic piece on, only to find out that the striker had been WELDED to the door jamb. :doah: Seriously who does that? My solution, lay some weld beads on the striker and ground them down. I built it up enough to take up the space normaly ocupied by the plastic bushing. I got lucky that my body line actually got better once I was done.
 
Yeah, it's amazing the amount of work people will do to incorrectly fix a problem, that would have been easier to fix the right way in the first place. Letting things that are broken go too long will do that to you.:)
 
toomany said:
The hinge bushings were worn out on my K5, which in turn took out the plastic piece on the striker. I replaced the bushings in the hinges. Went to put a new plastic piece on, only to find out that the striker had been WELDED to the door jamb. :doah: Seriously who does that? My solution, lay some weld beads on the striker and ground them down. I built it up enough to take up the space normaly ocupied by the plastic bushing. I got lucky that my body line actually got better once I was done.
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someone welded my mom's T/A stirker before she got it. It was in good shape except for that. Now years later it sits in the yard collect dirt and rust :doah:
 
What size torx bit does the striker take?

I bought a 50 and tried it.. seemed to big(wouldn't go in), bought the next size down at Sears and feels like it might be too loose(it's a 45).
 
Mine were so tight I just about twisted the torx right off, so I used vice grips and then just filed them a little till they were smooth.
Tarey
 
jonathon said:
What size torx bit does the striker take?

I bought a 50 and tried it.. seemed to big(wouldn't go in), bought the next size down at Sears and feels like it might be too loose(it's a 45).
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IIRC, It's a 47
 
toomany said:
IIRC, It's a 47
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That would make too much sense.. going to have to see if a parts store has it, Sears does not :doah:

However all was not lost on my trip to the mall(I hate the focking mall!), I picked up a flex head ratchet, I know that'll be pretty dang useful. I'm in the stone age as far as tools.. most of the ratchets I use are over 30 years old.. some are from the early 60's when my grandpa bought his first tools from Sears :eek1:
 
jonathon said:
That would make too much sense.. going to have to see if a parts store has it, Sears does not
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Sears has it...it's in a set of 4. There are two 3/8" drive and two 1/2" drive in the set. I think they are 45, 47, 55, 60 in the set. I know I spent $40 on them though. I originaly bought the set for the 55, but I've used the 47 more times I think.
 
That doesn'tr surpise me a bit. Buy a set for one ****in bit. Like buying a set of sockets and it not coming with an 18 :rolleyes:
 
Just did mine last night witha T47. If you say a T50 won't fit, then it must be a 47. Felt a bit loose, but it didn't bugger it up.

Look at it this way...now you'll have the right Torx for the seatbelts as well. :)
 
dyeager535 said:
Just did mine last night witha T47. If you say a T50 won't fit, then it must be a 47. Felt a bit loose, but it didn't bugger it up.

Look at it this way...now you'll have the right Torx for the seatbelts as well. :)
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yeah but good luck gettin THOSE out. I broke my dad and stepdads bit tryin to take the seatbelt out of my Blazer :doah:Finally just torched it out and welded a piece of metal in there
 
Randy92782 said:
yeah but good luck gettin THOSE out. I broke my dad and stepdads bit tryin to take the seatbelt out of my Blazer :doah:Finally just torched it out and welded a piece of metal in there
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You could have welded a nut to the bolt...then you could have used something 1/2" drive to take it out. I think that's one of GMs stupidest designs to use a Torx bolt for the seat belts. Especialy when they put them through the tar pad to seal them while they screw them down.
 
dyeager535 said:
Yeah, it's amazing the amount of work people will do to incorrectly fix a problem, that would have been easier to fix the right way in the first place. Letting things that are broken go too long will do that to you.:)
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Ok, well I just bought a 1989 Jimmy and the striker was so bad that it's basically just hanging in the door. It will shut but it's not tight of course. I would like to know how to fix this as I was just thinking about welding the metal back on the door but since there's a captured nut on the back I really have no idea what to do? I've ordered new door strikers and new hinge kit but since the PO didn't do anything the door basically took out the striker bolt. How do I fix this the correct way?

Thanks, Shane
 
The way I am doing mine is creating a double thick sheet of sheetmetal to form a patch panel. The new nut will be welded to the back. The downside to this is that there is no adjustment of the striker bolt, but if done properly that shouldn't be much of an issue.
 
Bumping for a cheap fix!

Dredging this up for those of you who have a good striker bolt and a long gone nylon bushing and are worried about the captured nut falling into no man's land. Half inch PEX tubing works great, cut to fit and slice along the full length to go around striker bolt. Rotate cut to the inside and you will be amazed at how easy your doors latch.
Cut up a few extra just to keep in the rig. Pretty cheap, two bucks for eight feet. Got plenty.........:haha::haha::haha: I hope some one can use this info, it really does work good.
 
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